The infinite tenderness of the Japanese towards their children extends, it would seem, even to artists. Every guide will take you to see the Sleeping Cat. Don't go. It is bad. Coming down the hill, I learned that all Nikko was two feet under snow in the winter, and while I was trying to imagine how fierce red, white, and black-green would look under the light of a winter sun I met the Professor murmuring expletives of admiration.
"What have you done? What have you seen?" said he.
"Nothing. I've accumulated a lot of impressions of no use to any one but the owner."
"Which means you are going to slop over for the benefit of the people in India," said the Professor.
And the notion so disgusted me that I left Nikko that very afternoon, the guide clamouring that I had not seen half its glories. "There is a lake," he said; "there are mountains. You must go see!"
"I will return to Tokio and study the modern side of Japan. This place annoys me because I do not understand it."
"Yet I am the good guide of Yokohama," said the guide.
No. XX
SHOWS HOW I GROSSLY LIBELLED THE JAPANESE ARMY, AND EDITED A CIVIL AND MILITARY GAZETTE WHICH IS NOT IN THE LEAST TRUSTWORTHY.