ILLUSTRATIONS

Bronze Charioteer Found at Delphi[Frontispiece]
FACING PAGE
Corfu. Mouth of the Old Harbor with “Ship of Ulysses”[10]
Ithaca. Polis Bay from the North[20]
Temple at Stratos[56]
Thermon. Temple of Apollo in the Foreground[72]
Thermopylæ. From the West[86]
Meteora Monasteries[100]
Sparta, with Taygetos in the Background[120]
The Stygian Pool[130]
Theatre at Epidauros[146]
Bay of Navarino, with Old Pylos to the Right and Sphakteria to the Left[158]
Stone Quarry at Syracuse Called Latomia dei Cappucini[186]
So-called Concordia Temple at Girgenti[194]
Cattaro [214]
Spalato. Palace of Diocletian. South Front[222]
Clissa[234]
Map of Sicily and Dalmatia[173]
Map of Greece[at end of volume]

VACATION DAYS IN GREECE

CORFU

It is great good fortune to spend a week in Corfu on the way to Greece. Seeing it from one end to the other, wandering through its olive forests and vineyards, brings on a mild, or, in some cases, a wild, intoxication without wine. What words fit the surrounding beauty but “Islands of the Blessed,” “Elysium,” “Garden of Eden,” "Paradise"? It is not Heaven, after all, for one sees here the poor, lame, blind, begging for small alms; but, as long as earth holds such corners as Corfu, it is not all cursed.

To the traveller who has felt the intoxication of such a region, and is impelled to report something of it, the impotence of words comes home with special force. Naught but the painter’s art seems adequate to report Corfu. And, furthermore, painter as well as poet might here well feel the weakness of his art. It is a great boon to have had this realm of beauty brought upon the retina of the eye, and so communicated to the soul.

One may, perhaps, be allowed to group the impressions that Corfu makes, and report them with a plainness that aspires only to the office of a photograph, resigning the attempt at coloring.

Before the eye lies one Corfu—the Corfu of to-day; but before the mind are brought two others—the Kerkyra of Greek history and the Scheria of Homer. The two latter compete with the former, and refuse the present beautiful scene a monopoly of attention.