The first day we were in Beirut the sirocco was blowing a hot, enervating wind. Beirut looks beautiful, either from the sea or land. It is built along the shore at the foot of Mount Lebanon. We find several American and English missionaries, many of whose schools we have visited and have been much interested in them; also attended some religious meetings. As it is the rainy season, the Friends are not able to get on quite so fast with their work as might otherwise be the case; but they have been warmly received, and their visit seems to be a very opportune one. Our party are all in usual health. The dear Friends think their health is improved, decidedly so, since they left America.
Thine sincerely,
Ellen Clare Miller.
Another letter from Ellen Clare Miller, from Mount Lebanon in 11th mo., 1867, to the editor of the Friends' Review, says:
"The last account forwarded to thee of our dear friends E. and S. Jones was brought down to the 12th of this month. The great storms which had prevailed up to that time, severer for the season than had been known for many years, passed away on that day. A remarkably fine rainbow, double and sixty degrees in height, one foot resting on the sea and the other on the base of Lebanon, appeared that evening just before sunset, giving very welcome promise of the return of fine weather. This was very cheering, as the heavy rains had for the time suspended the work of visiting schools, except that of E. B. Thompson, which adjoins M. Mott's house. We are not able yet to give a very clear statistical account of the many schools in Beirut and Lebanon for the education of boys and girls, but there is, indeed, a great work going on through their agency—a work of very widely extended influence. E. B. Thompson has fourteen schools under her influence, some in Beirut, some in the mountains. E. Saleeby, a Syrian, who has spent some time in Scotland and England, and whose efforts are principally supported by subscriptions from the former country, has many more under his care. The American missionaries have stations at Beirut and in several towns in the mountains, and we are at present at a boarding-school for training Syrian girls for teachers, conducted by two young ladies from England, sent out by the Society for Promoting Female Education in the East. They have at present only eighteen girls, on account of their limited means; the school will accommodate thirty, and the education given and the Christian influence extended, here as at other schools which we have seen, are very telling, and are raising the women to a very different position from that which they formerly occupied even among the nominal Christians in the country. The prejudice against their education was very great among all sects, and still exists, from the Mohammedans, who believe that woman has no soul, among the Druses, Maronites, and Catholics, and the somewhat more enlightened Protestants, who are now, through these schools, awaking to the advantage of having their daughters educated.
"The people everywhere seem very intelligent, and there seems much openness to receive missionaries from the Society of Friends, whose spiritual teaching is much needed in these parts; and we hope the feet of some may be directed to this Bible land, where the fields are already white unto harvest and the laborers few, and that Friends may see their way to lend funds to carry on this great work of Christian education among the females of the East. There is an innate nobility in them, and a gentleness and warmth of feeling in the women, which, when so developed, produce a fine character. Those who cannot speak English look at us with eyes full of love and interest, and by their expressive gestures convey more than many of our words would do. We became much interested in the girls of E. B. Thompson's principal school, which we frequently visited, Eli Jones taking the Scripture class several times. He found their knowledge of the Bible and their understanding of its truths equal, if not superior, to what we should find in our own schools in America and England. Besides this school, E. and S. J. visited the infant school in connection with it, also three smaller branch schools under E. B. Thompson's direction, and a boys' school conducted by two very superior young men, native teachers, but also under her superintendence. They also went to the Prussian Deaconesses' Institution, where the children receive a good education under Christian influences; then to the school for girls under the care of Dr. Bliss, the American missionary: of this latter a native Syrian and his wife have the immediate superintendence, residing in the house with the boarders. The children everywhere are well instructed in the Bible, and commit a great deal to memory both from the Arabic and English Scriptures. In all the schools the Friends delivered their message, exhorting all to use diligence to advance in their education, that through the instrumentality of her young men and young women Syria may rise among nations, and encouraging them to seek earnestly and prayerfully after a knowledge of Him without knowing whom, with all their learning and knowledge, they cannot be truly great—often kneeling in prayer with the teachers and scholars before leaving the school. They attended also a meeting for the Home Mission Society, where they addressed, through the medium of M. Bosistani, its principal, the college for the education of Syrian young men, as well as the American and E. B. Thompson's school, who were all present.
"On Sixth day morning we started for Sook-el-Gharb, a little village twelve miles from Beirut on the side of Lebanon, two thousand feet above the sea, where we intended to remain an hour or two visiting the schools there, and then to continue our journey a little farther to a village which we might make our headquarters while visiting the schools in that neighborhood, it being considered that the mountain-roads would have sufficiently recovered from the effects of the storm to be passable. The wind and the rain had, however, been so much more violent than is usual at this season that the road was much worse than had been expected, the path being in some places washed away by the torrents, which, wearing themselves a rough channel down what had been the road, had thrown up a wall of large loose stones on each side, making the journey in some parts dangerous, and so fatiguing that Sybil Jones was very much exhausted on arriving at Sook, and unable to proceed farther without a rest of two or three days. As much care as possible had been used in getting her up the mountain, riding being the only means of travelling on these steep, rough mountain-roads, with their ascents and descents more precipitous than can be well imagined without being seen; but the shaking and exertion were quite too much for her back, unused to such exercise, and she was confined to bed, suffering much from pain and weakness, until Third day, the 19th, when she was carried in a chair to this place, twenty minutes' ride distant from Sook, by a comparatively level path. The exertion of this so tired her that with great reluctance she had to decide that she must give up the prospect of going farther into the mountains. Eli Jones and A. L. Fox are accordingly visiting the various mountain-schools, while she is remaining at the school in Shumlan. It is a great disappointment and a trial of faith to both the dear Friends that it has thus been ordered so differently from what had been planned; but we cannot but believe that it will be overruled for the best. The ride from Beirut to Sook-el-Gharb is a very interesting one. We halted for some time at a little rude khan at the side of a little stream of clear cold water, where we rested a while under the shade of a fine evergreen oak, and had some refreshments, being offered cakes of the Arab bread, which is very thin and flat and baked of coarse flour, producing the effect of a small sheet of chamois leather; though rather tough, it is sweet and quite edible, and in constant use in this part of the country. They tear off a piece, roll it up, and dip it into their food, instead of using knives and forks; and we were much interested in hearing that it was still the practice in doing honor to another at table to present him with such a piece dipped in the choicest part of the mess, reminding us of our Saviour's gift to Judas. Our view from this village is very fine. We look down on the Mediterranean, ten miles or more distant, but looking in this deceptive atmosphere not more than three or four miles off. Between us and it intervene the terraced sides of Lebanon, laid out in mulberry-gardens or newly sown with wheat. Our stay at Sook, though unintentional, seemed to be in right ordering, for service opened up there. The mistress of the house where we were, E. Saleeby's wife, was dangerously ill, and has since died, and her husband felt the dear Friends' visit one of great comfort and entertained us with much kindness. E. Jones and A. Fox visited the boys' and girls' school there, as well as at Abeih and Bhamdûn, some hours' ride from Sook, E. J. examining the children in Scripture and in other branches, speaking to and praying with them, and distributing English and Arabic books. He also held meetings at Sook and Shumlan in the school-house, attended by the schools and several of the villagers, where the words earnestly spoken were attentively and gladly received. We have heard twice from E. J. and A. L. F. since they left us—good accounts. We were hoping to have seen them back last evening, but they did not appear. We suppose that they must have gone farther than was at first intended."
The following is a letter from Eli Jones, written to the Friends' Review a few days later than the above letter from E. C. Miller:
SYRIA AND PALESTINE.