Fig. 136.—PLAN OF SECOND FLOOR.
Fig. 137.—PLAN OF ATTIC.
DESIGN XXXII.
A HOUSE COSTING $4,000.
This plan of a large house provides ample and conveniently-arranged apartments, containing the most requisite of modern improvements, suitable to the requirements of a good-sized family. The general outline of the ground plan is nearly square—30 × 36 feet—securing the greatest economy in expense of construction, and embracing a liberal provision for comfort, and a suitable regard for appearances, without sacrificing one for the other. There is always a certain boldness in the exterior, or elevation, of a square double front, which no other style affords, expressive of substantial dignity. The two Bay-windows and Porch are united in construction, the porch having its ends partly sheltered by the projecting bay-windows, is a pleasant feature. The second story, attic, and cupola windows, have circular heads, with heavy dressing. The main Cornice is heavily trussed; the Cupola is large and roomy, and all are proportioned to make this house worthy of almost any situation.... The Cellar extends under the whole house, with walls of hard brick and mortar 8 inches thick, and 7 feet high, and should extend 1½ inches outside of the frame-work of the house, so as to be “flush” with the sheathing. The cross-walls, as shown on the plan, are of the same materials; all such walls should have “heading-courses” every 20 inches, and if in sandy bottom, a suitable bedding should be provided, as described for [Design XII.], which will insure a perfectly safe and satisfactory foundation. The Area walls should be made of hard brick, with stone coping and steps, laid in cement mortar. All chimneys should be started and laid up with the foundation, and the materials interlaced to bind them together; this will insure additional strength to both foundation and chimney. We recommend plastering, or “laying off” the ceiling of the cellar, with one coat of brown mortar, at a cost of $25, which would be a permanent benefit to the whole house, in preventing the damp cellar air from rising up through the floors and frame-work of the house. Such air is almost sure to be vitiated by decaying vegetable matter, and is the undoubted source of much disease. Another advantage derived from such plastering is the shutting out of rats and mice from the frame-work of the house, and lastly, it affords an opportunity of purifying and sweetening the cellar easily by (the simplest of all means) a coat of white-wash.... The materials used in the Frame are indicated in the estimate appended below. Sills should be framed for each cross and outside wall, so as to secure equal bearings, and allow for even shrinkages; and when put in position, they should be bedded in mortar, to prevent any inequalities in the bearings of the frame-work, to strengthen the foundation, and also to effectually shut out cold air from getting between the cellar ceiling and the first floor. All beams and studding are placed 16 inches from centers. The first tier of beams should be framed into the sills, and their tenons wedged from the outside, to “draw them home.” They should also bear upon the wall equally with the sill. All beams having a span of 12 feet and over, should have at least one row of cross-bridging of 1¼ × 3-inch “fencing.” The second and third story beams are notched over the ties, and spiked fast. The cupola posts rest directly on the center girts, and the principal roof-timbers are framed and secured to these posts. In this frame there need be no tendency to self-destruction, so common in large buildings, such as oblique or outward thrusts, or irregularity of bearings, but a perfect “repose” is secured to every piece of timber in the house.... The Bay-window frame-work (see [fig. 140]) is 1 inch less in depth than the principal sills of the house, to allow for the thickness of the boarding beneath them, so that the water-table, when put around the house may be in line. The distances given on the diagram of the bay frame may be relied upon as correct. “Bay-windows are apt to be cold,” is often said, but a sure preventive of such “cold” is easily secured by filling in between the beams and panels with dry sand, which will make them as tight as any other part of a house.—The character and quality of a house depends greatly upon the material and manner of SIDING. In our estimate we have provided for mill-worked sheathing, which should be put on diagonally, and thoroughly nailed to the frame, which will serve the double purpose of securing more warmth and strength than any “filling in” of brick, and is less expensive. A strip of the same thickness as the sheathing, and 2 inches wide, should be first nailed to the sill, close down to the masonry, to prevent the air from entering the joints of the sheathing, and following them upwards into the house. Tarred paper is next stretched over the sheathing, when the window-frames, water-table, and corner-boards should be set, and lastly, the novelty-siding put on, and double-nailed to each stud. The Windows are arranged for each sash to be hung, and all to have blinds. All windows above the first story have “circular heads,” with caps turned of 4-inch timber. The Keys shown on the elevation are sawed out at the back, so as to fit over the caps (not cut through them). This is much simpler, more ornamental, and does not impair or affect the solid head.—The roof projects 27 inches beyond the frame of the building, and is covered with IC. charcoal tin, laid and soldered in the best manner, on sound hemlock boards. The gutters of the main house are made as described for [Design V.]... The First Story plan ([fig. 141]) shows the general division of four rooms and three halls. The Entrance Hall, or Reception Room, is 7 × 12 feet. The Stairway Hall is also 7 × 12 feet. The Rear Hall is 7 × 7 feet. These halls are divided from each other by sash doors. The entrance hall is divided from the parlor and dining-room by large double doors. The advantages of dividing the halls in the manner shown will be obvious to any one when they consider how cold, windy, and cheerless most halls are. By this arrangement all drafts are prevented, either when opening the entrance door, or when passing from one room to another. The inside double doors may be swung open altogether, throwing the principal rooms of the lower floor into one spacious apartment, if occasion should require, for a large company, without altering to any material degree the temperature of these rooms. The stairway hall contains the principal stairs, which are of the easiest “platform” construction, so arranged that a more private stairway is entirely unnecessary. The rear hall is the common hall of the house, and is easily reached from every part. The Parlor is the largest room, has a bay-window, marble mantle, and fire-place heater, and is separated from the library by sliding doors. The Dining-room has also a bay-window, marble mantle, and fire-place heater, and is intended as the Living-room. It is conveniently connected with the kitchen, stairway hall, entrance hall, and has a good pantry (c). The Kitchen is separated from the dining-room by a single door, and in close proximity to the rear entrance and cellar stairway doors. It contains one large closet, range with elevated oven, warm-closet, and water-back, boiler, sink, and wash-tubs. The Kitchen should be wainscoted 3 feet high, with ⅝ × 3-inch ceiling-boards. The clock and lamp-shelf should be put between the closet and hall doors, and not over the range. The advantage of having the kitchen on the same floor with the dining-room must be apparent to every one.... The Second Story plan ([fig. 142]) is divided into four large chambers, a child’s bedroom, a bath-room, five closets, with a good-sized hall. The two Front Chambers are heated by hot air from the “fire-place” heaters of the first story, so that they are always comfortable in the coldest weather. For many reasons we prefer the fire-place heaters over any other. They take little room, are cheerful in appearance, easy of management, and economical, requiring attention but twice in twenty-four hours, if hard coal is used. Each heater will keep two ordinary sized rooms comfortable in winter, and are not unsightly in summer. Like any other device for heating, the perfect and satisfactory results depend altogether on the manner of setting them. In no case should a heater be expected to develop its full power when placed in a fire-place in so close proximity with the brick as to allow the hot air to strike against and be absorbed by them. The heater should be enclosed in a jacket of sheet-iron, having an 8-inch opening, and a collar at the top. Attached to the collar, and “built in” the chimney, should be an 8-inch tin pipe, connecting with the register-box in the second story. Above this box this flue should be entirely closed. The smoke-pipe should be 4-inch, and pass up through the 8-inch tin pipe to the register-box, where an elbow should be put on, turning the smoke into the side flue adjoining. The side flue should have no other side openings. The Bath-room has bath-tub, seat-closet, wash-basin, with cold and hot water faucets. Each chamber to the right of the hall to have wash-basins. These Chambers have marble mantle shelves, resting on plaster trusses, at an expense of $6 each, which answer the purpose that a $20 mantle would, and are really more cheerful and appropriate for such rooms.... The Attic is reached by the enclosed stairway, and is arranged so that two or four bedrooms may be “finished off” as required. The Tank is placed on the floor over the bath-rooms, and is supplied partly from the roof, and partly by the force-pump in the kitchen. All the remaining space in the attic may be used for storage, etc.... The Cupola-room is 7 × 7 feet, reached by a light stairway. The head-room is made to subserve the purpose of a stand or table, so that really very little room is taken away by the stairs.... Very few people have any definite idea of the expense of the separate items that are comprehended under the head of Plumbers’ Work. The following estimate in detail of plumbing, required in this house, gives facts and figures enough to enable any one to decide just how much plumbing can be done for any given sum, viz.:
| Sheet-lead, 3½ lbs. to square ft., for tank, 2 × 4 × 6 ft., with stop-cock. | $21.00 |
| Bath-tub, 10 oz., $15; plated flange and thimble-cock, $6; plated plug and chain. | 22.50 |
| Pan-closet, $12.25; plated cup and pull, $1.50; French bowl, $2.20; trap, 4 in., $3.75. | 19.70 |
| 3 wash-basins, $1.70 each; marble slabs, $5 each; plug, stud, and chain, $1.50 each; 2 cocks, trap, screw, plug, $3 each. | 36.60 |
| 1 iron sink, 18 × 24 inches, $2; 2 cocks, $3.50; trap and screw, $1. | 6.50 |
| 35-gallon copper boiler, $27; with stand, $2. | 29.00 |
| Force-pump, with brass cylinder. | 17.00 |
| 20 ft. 4-in. iron soil-pipe, at 50c. per ft. | 10.00 |
| 372 lbs. supply and circulation pipe, at 8½c. per lb. | 31.62 |
| 125 lbs. waste-pipe, at 8½c. per lb. | 10.63 |
| Solder, tacks, and charcoal for this job. | 3.00 |
| 5 days’ time, plumber and helper, $6 per day. | 30.00 |
| Total amount of cost. | $237.55 |
| 10 per cent added by plumbers in estimating. | 23.75 |
| Total Plumber’s charges for the job. | $261.30 |
To the bill for plumbing we add the cost of:
| Range, with elevated oven, warm-closet, water-back, set complete. | $80.00 |
| Heaters, 2 “fire-place,” with registers and heating pipes, $45 each. | 90.00 |
Cost.—Estimate of cost of building by this plan. It will be noticed that the prices given for bay-windows, porch, lobby, stairs, windows, cupola, and doors, include materials and labor complete, and that the amount of carpenters’ work is for the balance of such labor required on the job: