Le Hinglé, a walk of a mile and a half from the station, takes to the Château of Chalonge, with a tower and picturesque gables. It is being well restored by the proprietor.
Dinard-Saint Enogat (I.V.) chl. arr. S. Malo. Picturesquely situated on an indented coastline opposite S. Malo, and connected by a tramline with S. Lunaire and S. Briac. It is a favourite resort for wealthy Americans during the summer, and has a casino, where those who like to lose their money may do so. Bathing is best obtained at S. Lunaire where are good sands. Scanty remains of a priory founded in 1324. The chapel in ruins contains a colossal statue of the Virgin and child of the 15th cent. An old house, traditionally supposed to have been once occupied by the Black Prince, has a couple of picturesque towers with conical roofs and gables. A house quaintly decorated with numerous statues of saints.
S. Lunaire has an excellent beach. Lodging houses are extending rapidly along the coast from Dinard to S. Briac, and in process of time there will be a continuous line of houses. The modern church is portentously vulgar, but the little old church has been happily spared. It has a low slated tower at the junction of the transepts. Within is the tomb of the saint, who was son of Hoel and Pompeia, and born in South Wales. His father was founder of Llanhywel in Pembrokeshire, and his mother lies buried at Langoat near La Roche Derrien. He was brother of S. Tugdual the founder of Tréguier, and nephew of S. Brioc. The story goes that he left his portable altar behind him in Wales, and that two doves crossed the sea bringing it to him in their beaks. On his tomb a dove is represented with the slab in its beak. The fact on which this legend is founded is probably that his sisters, crossing later, brought to him what he had forgotten. One sister was called Sceva, Ste. Sève as she is now called. Another story told of him is that when he settled at this spot on the coast, with his monks, to his dismay it was discovered that seed corn had been forgotten. Then Leonore knelt in prayer, and presently a robin was seen perched on a stone with an ear of wheat in its beak which it let fall when scared. The grains were sown, and on the following year all the produce of the little harvest, and eventually all the district round, derived its wheat from "Robin Redbreast's Corn."
S. Briac. Situated above a picturesque bay partly closed by an islet. It has a little port. The church is modern except the tower, which is renaissance. An extensive alignment existed here, extending to the headland above the sea, but the exigences of builders have almost if not wholly destroyed it. The saint from whom the place takes its name was an Irishman, a native of Ulster, who joined Tugdual and Leonore in South Wales and followed them to Brittany. Briac was given a site for a monastery where now stands the town of Bourgbriac, where is his Holy Well. He soon made of it a flourishing school for missionaries, who were sent throughout the district. After many years he went on pilgrimage to Rome, and on his way back halted at Arles, where he remained two years. Then he returned to Brittany, where he died at an advanced age about 570, and was buried at Bourgbriac.
On the further side of the river is Lancieux; the church contains a Roman cippus but is otherwise destitute of interest and will shortly be rebuilt. The vast bay west of Lancieux is divided in twain by the tongue of land on which is S. Jacut. Here the tide goes out as much as 5 kilometres. To the north of the promontory of S. Jacut are the islands of Les Ebbiens on which is a battery.
Off Dinard is the fortified isle of Cézambre, but visitors are not suffered to land there. Here was a monastery founded by S. Brendan about 524, and when S. Malo arrived from South Wales, he was hospitably received by Festivus, the Irish monk left there in charge. A Chapel of S. Brendan was much resorted to by girls in want of husbands, who vowed candles to the Irish saint if he would supply them with a suitor. But since the military authorities have denied access to the island, the damsels have had to aspire at home.
Dol (I.V.) chl. arr. S. Malo. A dull town, formerly a cathedral city, and for three hundred years seat of an archbishop. The few old houses in the town are not particularly interesting. The former cathedral, now parish church (S. Samson), belongs for the most part to the 13th cent. The west part is flanked by two towers of the 14th and 15th centuries. That to the south has retained some remains of the original Romanesque church. King John of England burnt the church. At the crossing of the transepts a third tower of the 13th cent. was begun but never completed. The N. side of the church formed part of the fortifications of the town, and the wall of the chapels of the choir is surmounted by a crenilated parapet. The choir has a square east end like an English church, and with a magnificent 2nd pointed or geometrical E. window full of glass of the same period, badly restored. It represents the Last Judgment, scenes of the Passion, and the Life of S. Samson. The pillars of the nave belong to the original Romanesque church. After it was burnt they were retained, but disengaged columns were grouped about them and bound to the cylinders by bands of iron. Those in the side aisles are meaningless, supporting nothing. Behind the high altar is the Chapel of S. Samson. In the wall at the side are openings into a chamber into which the insane were admitted, and kept for a while enclosed near the tomb of the Saint, in hopes of a cure. In the N. transept is the sadly defaced tomb of Bishop Thomas James (1504) and of his brother, a canon. It was a peculiarly rich piece of renaissance work, by the Florentine family of Juste, two brothers of which were brought to Dol to execute it. After its completion they settled at Tours. It was barbarously mutilated at the Revolution. The S. transept has a rich porch, the statuary in which has been recently restored.
About a mile and a half out of Dol on the Combourg road is the Pierre du Champ Dolent, a menhir 27 feet high above ground and sunk nearly as many feet beneath the surface. It is dwarfed by a huge crucifix planted on the top. Near by is Carfeuntin with a hideous modern church replacing one of the 13th that has been wantonly destroyed. Here is the Holy Well of S. Samson.
Mont Dol is a height rising out of the great marsh of Dol, that was overflowed by the sea in 709. This was a prehistoric site and numerous flint weapons are there found. The church of the 11th, 12th and 15th centuries contains curious mural paintings.
Douarnenez (F.) chl. arr. Quimper. Prettily situated on a tidal creek that has its mouth almost closed by the Isle of Tristan. The railway station is high above the town and the ravine is crossed by a viaduct. The town itself is given up to sardines and is pervaded by bad odours. It has a very bad modern church. That of S. Helene is of the 17th cent. with glass of the period. The Chapel of S. Michel is of 1664 and has a painted ceiling. Douarnenez was the headquarters of the brigand Fontenelle during the wars of the League. He had his castle on the island of Tristan where he crowded his prisoners into the dungeons so dense that they could not lie down, and kept them there till they died, in a condition of indescribable filth. As one died, he made the rest throw him out at the window into the sea. Some, who he thought might ransom themselves, he placed in metal chairs over slow fires, others he left in bitter winter weather immersed to their necks in barrels of cold water. He carried on his barbarities, not for any cause, though he professed himself to be a leaguer. He warred on all alike for the sake of rapine and out of wanton love of slaughter. He was finally broken on the wheel in 1602. Douarnenez is connected by rows of houses with