The steamer for Normanton had been advertised in Sydney to leave Brisbane on the Thursday, the day after our arrival, but on going to the office to make inquiries as to her time of departure, we were told that in consequence of having been delayed by running aground in the Brisbane River on her way up to the wharf, she could not possibly leave before Friday afternoon, so that we had a clear day to look around the city and hunt up our acquaintances. Not having seen Brisbane for a couple of years I took advantage of the opportunity to ascertain what progress the city had made since my last visit, and must say that the sight of the buildings lately erected gave me a very strong idea that the community must be in a tolerably prosperous state to enable them to erect such structures in their midst.
The Queensland National Bank, the “Courier” buildings, the offices of Macdonald-Paterson and Co., Grimes and Pettys, Finney, Isles and Co., the Imperial Hotel, and many others, would compare favorably with anything in the colonies, and would certainly be a credit to any city in the world. I also paid a visit to Parliament House, and must certainly admit that the lower chamber is far and away superior to that of Sydney in every respect, it being arranged much after the style of the Council Chamber in the latter city, but the accommodation for the public, and more particularly the gallery set apart for ladies, is perfect in its way, and offers an example that the older colony might well follow whenever it is decided to erect something more suitable for the purpose than the present barn-like structure that passes muster as the Legislative Hall of New South Wales. With regard to the refreshment room, Sydney has the advantage; in fact, I think it would be hard to find a finer dining-room than the one attached to the Legislative Assembly of the old Colony, but like the railway arrangements for meals, in this respect also, Queensland bears the palm, the tariff for all meals to Members of the House being one shilling only, and available every day, both in session and out, the consequence being that many Members of the Legislature who appreciate good cookery at a moderate rate, desert the clubs at meal times and give the preference to the Parliamentary cuisine.
We fell in with several Members of the Lower House, notably, Mr. Macdonald-Paterson, Postmaster-General, and Mr. Macrossan, the late Minister for Works; the former, a fine jovial specimen of humanity who did his best to make our stay as agreeable as possible, and who certainly left a most favorable impression on my mind as a courteous and affable gentleman of whom the colony may well feel proud.
However, it is not my intention to weary your readers with a description of Brisbane and its surroundings, so will proceed to relate more particularly the incidents of our voyage northwards, which may prove of more interest than descriptions of men and cities told many a time and oft by abler pens than mine.
The s. s. Rockton, 2000 tons, was the vessel destined to convey us to the port of Kimberley, in the Gulf of Carpentaria, passengers and luggage being transferred there into the s.s. Dugong for the remainder of the voyage up the Norman River, it being as yet impossible to get vessels of the Rockton’s tonnage and draught across the bar at the mouth of the river, and about a quarter-past five, p.m. on Friday, the 29th July, we left the wharf in Brisbane and steamed slowly and carefully down the river, being one day behind at the start through the before-mentioned accident to the vessel on her inward voyage. The usual bustle consequent on the departure of a large steamer with a full complement of passengers took place—many tearful farewells and goodbyes were uttered, many hearty hand-shakes given, and many a white handkerchief waved as we cast loose from our moorings, but there was little or no confusion, Captain Leggett and his officers reducing everything to apple pie order in a very short space of time, whilst the passengers began to look about them trying to discover who were their companions for the voyage and what sort of a prospect was held out for a pleasant passage, as it depends very much upon the company one happens to meet whether matters go smoothly or not, and judging from personal observations, we were evidently in for a sociable and enjoyable trip.
We got safely out of the river just as the night came on, bore across for the light on Moreton Island, got safely over the outer bar, and the voyage had fairly commenced, our first port of call being Townsville; and as by this time it was about a fair thing, I turned in and had a good night’s rest, the sea being comparatively smooth, whilst the steamer, with the wind abeam, was going a good twelve knots and giving every prospect of a rapid passage—a promise fully borne out by results.
On we sped, passing Frazer Island and the Great Sandy Cape on Saturday morning, very little occurring to break the monotony of the voyage, except that off the Cape we noticed thousands of sea birds engaged in fishing—a very interesting performance to those who had not previously witnessed anything of the kind—and as we were very close to them, in fact they almost surrounded us, we had a splendid view of the operation.
A bird would rise from sixty to a hundred feet above the surface of the sea, then turn, and with head down, wings folded closely to its sides, come down like a stone, disappearing under the water for a few seconds, when it would emerge—in most instances with its finny prey secured—and after paddling on the surface for a few yards, disposing of its capture, it would again take wing, and mingling amongst its fellows again and again go through the same evolutions with varying success.
We had also some glimpses of lovely islands scattered here and there on the calm surface of the sea, which, together with the glorious views of the mainland, combined to form a most exquisite picture, ever changing and ever enjoyable, more especially to those who had not previously taken a trip along the lovely northern coast.
We had the usual variety of games by which travellers on shipboard manage to while away the time—deck quoits, whist, cribbage, penny nap., draughts, and chess, and amongst those who affected the latter game was “Uncle John,”—a perfect character in his way, and a never-failing fund of amusement to his fellow-passengers,—who was en route to Cooktown on business connected with the construction of the railway from that place to Maytown. A jovial old card at all hours and under all circumstances was “Uncle,” ever on the watch to persuade a friend to join him in “viewing the alligator,” ever ready to join in a round game at cards or meet an opponent over the chess board, where his preternatural look of wisdom and “whuskey,” combined with his witty remarks on the progress of the game, would afford a regular “go as you please” entertainment to his delighted auditors, chief amongst whom was a little four-eyed specimen of the tribe of Israel, whose laugh at “Uncle’s” sallies was loud and continuous, until it finally became monotonous, and created a murderous desire in the breasts of those in the immediate vicinity, more especially when he followed the old man about with a pressing request that he would again entertain him with the funny story of “The broken down walls of Jerusalem.” “Vich vas de pest yarn, sho elp me neffer, dat I efer hear in all mine life, und gome und dell it to dis shentleman; he was not hea it at all yet,” until we all had it by heart.