The principal monuments are, a handsome panelled marble tablet, with a fine bust by Chantrey, commemorative of Mr. John Simpson, an eminent architect, and builder of this church. A similar tablet and bust, by Chantrey, to William Hazledine, Esq., the builder of the Menai bridge; an oblong Grecian tablet, with an elegant latin inscription, to the Rev. Francis Leighton, his lady, and two grandchildren; and in the vestibule an elegant marble mural monument to the officers and privates of the 53rd, or Shropshire Regiment, who were killed on the 10th of February, 1846, in the battles of Subraon, Aliwal, and Loodhiana, on the Sutluj. The window above the altar is ornamented with painted glass, representing the descent from the cross, after Rubens, the Salutation and Representation in the Temple, executed by Mr. Evans, of this town, whose skill has also been exercised in four other windows of this church, of which the subjects are, the raising of Lazarus, Christ receiving little children, healing of the sick, and the tribute money, the whole of which were presented by the Rev. R. Scott. The church was commenced building March 2nd, 1790, and consecrated August 20th, 1792; there is accommodation for a congregation of 2200 persons. The total cost, including site, organ, and bells, £19,352. The living is a vicarage, returned at £350, in the patronage of the Lord Chancellor; incumbent, Rev. John Yardley, M.A.
The Church of the Holy Cross, commonly called the Abbey Church, is situated in the Abbey Foregate. It is built of red sand stone, and consists of nave, side aisles, and a massive tower at the west end. Though the beauty of the church has suffered both from dilapidation and mutilation, yet it displays many interesting features of ancient Norman architecture, combined with the earlier pointed style. It originally formed part of the richly endowed monastery founded by Roger de Montgomery, the first Earl of Shrewsbury, and was built on the site of a small wooden church dedicated to St. Peter, which it is said was erected in the time of Edward the Confessor, by Siward, a Saxon gentleman, then resident in Shropshire. The nave or great western aisle, was in very early times appropriated to the use of the neighbouring inhabitants, who were in general servants of the Abbey. It was called the Parish Church of the Holy Cross, within the monastery of St. Peter’s, of Salop. For this reason it was spared in the general destruction of the Abbey, and being now one of the parochial churches of the town, retains the name of Holy Cross. When entire it was a stately cruciform building, equal in size to some of our cathedrals, but two-thirds of the structure was destroyed at the dissolution of monasteries in the time of Henry VIII. The principal entrance is at the west end under the tower, through a pointed doorway, with mouldings skilfully inserted within a deeply recessed semi-circular arch, the exterior rib of which springs on each side from a Norman pillar, with indented capital. Above this rises a magnificent and elegantly proportioned window, divided horizontally by embattled transoms, and perpendicularly by six upright mullions into seven compartments; the arched head is gracefully pointed and filled with a profusion of the most delicate tracery. On each side of the window is a canopied niche, containing statues of St. Peter and St. Paul, the tutelar saints of the Abbey. The nave is separated from the side aisles by the semi-circular arches, resting on short mosaic pillars in the Anglo-Norman style. The western portion has two pointed arches in the Gothic style, rising from clustered pillars, with capitals composed of small horizontal mouldings; a lofty and graceful arch opens from the nave of the tower, and affords a view of the fine west window, the upper part of which is filled with armorial bearings. The fine eastern window filled with stained glass was executed by Evans, of Shrewsbury, with his usual taste. Underneath this window is a beautifully executed stone altar screen, composed of an arcade of five Norman arches, with varied mouldings, surrounded by a pierced balustrade. The communion table is fenced by stone railing uniform in style, the whole of which was designed and executed by Messrs. Carline and Dodson, of this town, through the liberality of the late Rev. R. Scott. The north east window of the north aisle contains a figure of St. Peter, the arms of the see of Lichfield, of Lord Berwick, the donor, and of thirteen incumbents since the reformation. In the south aisle is a beautiful mosaic window of stained glass, containing the armorial bearings, of the families connected with the Rev. John Roche. At the west end of the church is a spacious gallery, and an excellent organ, erected in 1806, at the cost of 365 guineas.
There are several ancient monuments which have been removed hither on the demolition of other sacred edifices in the town and county, which are preserved in the ample side aisles. The oldest in the church is in the south aisle, a mutilated figure of a warrior in the costume of the reign of King John, and supposed to represent the founder of the Abbey, Earl Roger de Montgomery, who died in the year 1094. In the north aisle is the recumbent figure of a person in the robes and coif of a judge brought from St. Chad’s. In the south aisle is a monument brought from St. Giles’s church, with a figure in priestly vestments. Opposite the last is the effigy of a knight in linked armour, removed from the priory church of Wombridge, conjectured to commemorate Sir Walter de Dunstanville, who died in the 25th of Henry III., 1240. In the south aisle an alabaster altar tomb, bearing the recumbent figures of a man (in the habiliments of war) and his wife, remembers William Charlton, who died in 1524. This monument was originally erected in Wellington church. An altar tomb in the north porch, in the style of the fifteenth century, has a figure of a knight in plate armour, partly covered with a monastic dress, and another figure in the dress of a hermit of the Romish church. Near the east end of the north aisle, is a large altar tomb with full length figures, to the memory of Richard Onslow, Esq., speaker of the House of Commons, in the 8th of Elizabeth, who died 1571, and his lady. This memorial was formerly placed in the chancel of old St. Chad’s church. Above this is a mural monument brought from St. Chad’s, representing a gentleman in a ruff, and a lady with long veil thrown back, kneeling under two arches; above, a lady in a habit and coif, and a little girl kneeling, to the memory of Thomas Edwardes, Esq., who died 1634, and of Mary, the wife of his son, Thomas Edwardes, Esq., who died 1641. In the south aisle is an alabaster altar tomb, in the Grecian style, bearing the figure of an alderman in his civic robe, and a lady in the scarlet gown formerly worn by the lady mayoresses of Shrewsbury, commemorative of William Jones, Esq., who died 1612, and his wife, who died in 1623. The monument was originally placed in St. Alkmund’s church. There are numerous other mural monuments, of more modern dates, which are elegantly designed, in memory of deceased members of some of the principal families of the parish. In the vestry is an old painting of the Crucifixion, which in 1728 occasioned much strife between the minister and his flock. In that year Mr. Latham, who had been lately inducted to the vicarage, presented a petition to the Bishop of Lichfield and Coventry, praying that a picture representing our Saviour upon the cross might be removed out of the church. A counter petition was also presented by the parishioners, but the wardens shortly after received an order from the bishop for the removal of the picture. It was afterwards long possessed by the family of Hilton, by whom it was again restored to the parishioners of the Holy Cross. The living is a vicarage with St. Giles annexed, valued in the king’s book at £8. The small tithes are commuted for £363, and the impropriator, Lord Berwick, receives £110. The patronage is vested in the Right Hon. Lord Berwick, who received it in exchange for three small livings in Suffolk; incumbent, Rev. Robert L. Burton, M.A. The vicarage of the Holy Cross is a small fabric of wood and plaster situated in the Abbey Foregate, now converted into two cottages. From time immemorial certain lands have been vested in the churchwardens and their successors; they now produce an income of £250 per annum. “The vicar and churchwardens are a corporation with power of making leases of the landed possessions, &c., and have a common seal which is appended to such documents. The seal is kept in a chest secured by three locks, and the keys are severally in the possession of the vicar and two churchwardens. It is of brass of the visica piscis form, and has in the centre a baton or mace, and on each side a clothed arm projecting towards the centre, that on the dexter side holding a pastoral crook, that on the sinister side a naked sword; the ground work studded with stars, and around the margin this inscription:—S.COMMVNE DE FFORYATE MONACHOR.” The space of ground on the east side of the church, containing 7300 yards, whereon formerly stood the choir and Lady Chapel of the monastery, was in 1840 converted into a public cemetery.
The Church of St. Giles stands at the eastern extremity of the suburb of the Abbey Foregate, the living of which is annexed to that of Holy Cross. It is a small plain building consisting of nave, chancel, and north, aisle, with a small bell turret at the west end. Of its foundation we possess no record, but the structure is doubtless as old as the early part of the twelfth century, and some confirmation is afforded to this conjecture by the arches of the northern and southern doors, having the characteristics of that era. The nave is divided from the side aisle by three pointed arches, sustained on plain round pillars. It is highly probable that the north aisle was made for the accommodation of persons afflicted with leprosy—the hospital of which formerly stood near the church, and from which they had access by a pointed doorway, when they might hear the offices of religion without endangering other worshippers with their contagious malady. A lofty pointed arch separates the nave from the chancel, which is terminated by a flat arched eastern window, which is exquisitely beautified with stained glass, executed by Mr. Evans. The four lower compartments have full length figures of the Evangelists, standing upon hexagonal pedestals. Over each figure is a beautiful canopy of tabernacle work, and the intersections of the tracery contain the symbols of the Evangelists. In the three principal compartments of the upper division, are fine representations of the salutation, the wise men’s offering, and the presentation in the temple. The small lancet window on the north side, contains a figure of the patron saint, St. Giles, exquisitely executed. On the floor are several ancient stones bearing crosses, probably denoting the interment of some of the masters of the old hospital. From an entry in the parish registrar of the date 1655, it appears this church formerly possessed a steeple at the west end. In the steeple was a great bell and two smaller ones, which were taken down in 1672, and used in the following year, with four lesser bells, and the great “Wenefrede bell,” in the recasting of the present ring of bells in the Abbey church. For a long period this venerable edifice exhibited a rude appearance of damp and neglect, and divine service was celebrated only on two Sunday evenings during the year. In 1827, however, the Rev. W. G. Rowland, the liberal donor of the beautiful east window, thoroughly repaired and happily rescued it from the ruin and decay to which in its previous condition it was fast hastening. Subsequently the massive oak benches were removed, and replaced with new ones; a new pulpit and altar screen of oak, beautifully carved in unison with the architecture were added, and the whole building fitted up for divine service by the munificence of the Rev. Richard Scott, who also gave £500 towards augmenting the salary of the officiating minister. Since June, 1836, divine service has regularly been performed on the Sabbath. The Rev. Joseph Simpson, M.A., is the officiating minister. In the parish book is the following memorandum:—“1585, paid Barnett and his sonne for pulling down the crosse of St. Gyles, xviij d.” This cross formerly stood in the church yard, and was curiously sculptured. A large stone which now lies in the church yard, with a cavity on the upper side, was most probably the base and socket of the cross. It is now termed the pest basin, which tradition states to have been used during the time of the plague for holding water, in which to avoid the spread of the disease the people deposited their money in their bargains for provisions with the country folk.
St. Alkmund’s Church, situated in St. Alkmund’s Square, is a neat structure of freestone, erected in 1795, with the exception of the tower and spire, which fortunately escaped the fate of a former edifice, inconsiderately destroyed under a mistaken apprehension of its stability. The original church was founded by Ethelfleda, daughter of Offa, King of Mercia, who governed that kingdom at the beginning of the ninth century. King Edgar, by the advice of St. Dunstan, gave other lands and possessions, and placed here a dean and ten prebends. Its patron saint was a prince of the Northumbrian family, who is said to have been buried at Lilleshall. At the Doomsday survey, this church had possession of nine manors, in all about 4,020 acres, out of which 620 were in demesne, and a rent of £8. 8s. 8d., which, with other rents, produced a revenue of £500 per annum. The manner in which it lost this appendage, as recorded in Dugdale, is an example of the fluctuations to which, in those days of turbulence, even the most sacred property was liable. King Edward the Confessor wrested these lands from one Spirtes, a canon of St. Alkmund’s, and gave them to Godfrey Wiffesune. On his death, about two years after the conquest, Nigel, an ecclesiastic, obtained them. After his decease, one Gilbert de Cundore, a layman, had possession of them, and retained them till he was excommunicated by the bishop. In order to obtain absolution, he and his knights submitted to do penance, and were flogged by the canons at the altar of St. Alkmund’s church. The property finally centred in Roger, Earl of Hereford, who held it by force of arms.
“The superior and dean of this collegiate church had, in common with those of other Saxon foundations, the right of hereditary succession, and even claimed a privilege of alienating the property to other than religious uses. In the year 1150, when monastic institutions were universally popular, and the colleges of the secular clergy had fallen into disrepute, Richard de Belesme, then dean of St. Alkmund’s, voluntarily surrendered the estates of the deanery, which lay at Lilleshall, towards the endowment of an abbey of canons regular of St. Augustine, about to be erected on that spot made sacred by the sepulchre of the patron saint of his church; and so great was his zeal for this new institution, that he solicited and obtained the consent of the Pope and King Stephen for dissolving the college entirely, and for transferring all its estates to the new abbey. Thus stripped of all its landed property, the benefice sank from a collegiate establishment to a poor vicarage, which continued in the patronage of the monks of Lilleshall till the dissolution, when it became vested in the crown.”
The old church was a spacious structure, exhibiting various styles of architecture, from the Anglo-Norman period to the middle of the sixteenth century. Of its antiquity, however, few features remain; for the panic caused by the sudden fall of St. Chad’s church, induced the parishioners of St. Alkmund to petition parliament to pull down the body of the old church, and erect a new one on its site. The modern building is in the ancient pointed style of architecture; an oblong square, eighty-two feet by forty-four feet, with a recess for the altar. The ancient tower, terminated with crochetted pinnacles, remains, and is seventy feet high, surmounted with a chaste and elegantly proportioned spire, one hundred and fourteen feet—making a total of 184 feet from the ground. Over the altar is a window of painted glass, executed about fifty years ago by Eginton, representing Evangelical Faith, in a female figure as large as life kneeling on a cross, with the eyes elevated and the arms extended towards a celestial crown, which appears amidst the opening clouds, This window was erected at a cost of two hundred guineas. The church is handsomely fitted up, and will accommodate a congregation of 800 persons. Upon the gallery, at the west end, is a good organ, erected by subscription in 1823. The tower contains a peal of eight bells, recast in 1813. The sound of church bells was supposed to be very efficacious in chasing away the spirit of darkness by our superstitious ancestors. The following curious notice will shew that they were not at all times proof against infernal agency:—
“This yere, (1533) upon twelfe daye, in Shrowsbury, the dyvyll appearyd in St. Alkmund’s churche, there when the preest was at high masse, with great tempeste and darknesse, so that as he passyd through the churche he mountyd up the steeple in the saide churche, tering the wyers of the saide clocke, and put the print of his clawes upon the 4th bell, and took one of the pinnacles away with him, and for the time stayed all the bells in the churches within the saide towne, that they could neyther toll nor ringe.”
Of the ancient tombs and mural monuments which abounded in the old edifice, none were preserved in the present structure worthy of notice, with the exception of a tablet to Chief Justice Jones, who died in 1692. Several tablets of a modern date adorn the walls. The living is a vicarage, valued in the king’s book at £6, now returned at £219. Patron, the Lord Chancellor; incumbent, the Rev. Charles Edward Leopold Wightman, M.A.
St. Julian’s Church is situated upon elevated ground, at the top of the Wyle-cop, near to St. Alkmund’s church. Of its early foundation in Saxon times we possess no particulars. It was distinguished through several reigns as a rectory and a royal free chapel, with a peculiar jurisdiction. According to Tanner, at a very early period it was annexed to the free chapel of St. Michael, within the castle, and so continued until the reign of Henry IV., when they were both resigned into the king’s hands. Subsequently, the rectory was granted, among other things, to augment the new foundation of Battlefield College, and thenceforth the living became a mere stipendiary curacy. On the dissolution of that college, the living was granted by the crown to John Capper and Richard Trevor; and after many subsequent transfers, passed into the family of Prince, from whom it has descended to the present patron, the Earl of Tankerville.