For the convenience of passengers to and from India, places of refuge or Stations, have been erected at uniform distances, where man and beast may find refreshment, and shelter from the scorching sun. Those travelling through the agency of Messrs. Waghorn,[6] are entitled to avail themselves to any extent of the accommodation afforded, saving as to wines, &c., which are charged extra; but should a party making the journey, independent altogether of such agency, neglect to provide himself with a ticket of admission to these Stations, he will find himself condemned to abstinence from food and water for the entire eighty-four miles, unless he carry with him a sufficient supply. Wells there are none, saving one of dirty brackish water near Suez, and this is more often dry than not. At the Stations, however, there is always an abundant supply of good water, kept cool under ground in iron tanks, and brought from the Nile in skins at a great expense; and should this by any untoward chance be wanting, the traveller may slake his thirst with the best of ale or beer at a shilling the bottle. If too fastidious to descend to vulgar malt, he will find a modest looking “carte des vins” in the dining-rooms of three out of seven of the Stations, from which he may make his selection, without risk of being compelled to complain either of quality or price.
I am aware that there are many who have found fault with the apparently high charge made for the transit between Cairo and Suez; but these may not have sufficiently considered the great trouble and expense necessarily incurred in providing due accommodation. They have scarcely any idea of the number of skins of water required to fill one tank, nor, perhaps, do they reflect, while filling out or polishing their own skins, and using as much of the precious fluid as they can desire, that the poor camel or donkey which brought it forty weary miles from the Nile, returns all the way back again, without having wetted its lips more than once, if even so much as that. Then again, should a goat-skin spring a leak, or burst while on the road, which not unfrequently happens, what is to recompense the poor Bedouin, who has tramped the whole way on foot, and whose donkey, on which he solely relies for a livelihood, is the bearer of but one skin of water at a time.[7]
FOOTNOTES:
[3] Our little vessel when originally sent out to Egypt by the Oriental Company, was fitted with a rudder-wheel, but as the native boatmen could never be induced to work it, a long tiller was substituted in its stead.
[4] The distance from Atféh to Boulac, by the Nile, is about 120 English miles.
[5] Dr. A., an eminent physician, long resident in Cairo, well known by most who have visited that city.
[6] 1842-3.
[7] A young officer, on his way out to India, having upon one occasion, ordered Champagne, really was, or appeared to be, extremely annoyed that it was sent up un-iced! I never found any one returning, make any unreasonable objections of this kind.