DECEMBER 6. 1829—FEBRUARY 6, 1830
Journey from Liverpool to London by coach.—Neatness of the cottages.— Trentham Hall.—Stratford-on-Avon.—Oxford.—London.—Charles R. Leslie. —Samuel Rogers.—Seated with Academicians at Royal Academy lecture.— Washington Irving.—Turner.—Leaves London for Dover.—Canterbury Cathedral.—Detained at Dover by bad weather.—Incident of a former visit.—Channel steamer.—Boulogne-sur-Mer.—First impressions of France.—Paris.—The Louvre.—Lafayette.—Cold in Paris.—Continental Sunday.—Leaves Paris for Marseilles in diligence.—Intense cold.— Dijon.—French funeral.—Lyons.—The Hôtel Dieu.—Avignon.—Catholic church services.—Marseilles.—Toulon.—The navy yard and the galley slaves.—Disagreeable experience at an inn.—The Riviera.—Genoa
CHAPTER XVI
FEBRUARY 6, 1830—JUNE 15, 1830
Serra Palace in Genoa.—Starts for Rome.—Rain in the mountains.—A brigand.—Carrara.—First mention of a railroad.—Pisa.—The leaning tower.—Rome at last.—Begins copying at once.—Notebooks.—Ceremonies at the Vatican.—Pope Pius VIII.—Academy of St. Luke's.—St. Peter's.— Chiesa Nuova.—Painting at the Vatican.—Beggar monks.—Festa of the Annunciation.—Soirée at Palazzo Sunbaldi.—Passion Sunday.—Horace Vernet.—Lying in state of a cardinal.—Miserere at Sistine Chapel.— Holy Thursday at St. Peter's.—Third cardinal dies.—Meets Thorwaldsen at Signor Persianis's.—Manners of English, French, and Americans.—Landi's pictures.—Funeral of a young girl.—Trip to Tivoli, Subiaco.—Procession of the Corpus Domini.—Disagreeable experience
CHAPTER XVII
JUNE 17, 1830—FEBRUARY 2, 1831
Working hard.—Trip to Genzano.—Lake of Nemi.—Beggars.—Curious
festival of flowers at Genzano.—Night on the Campagna.—Heat in Rome.—
Illumination of St. Peter's.—St. Peter's Day.—Vaults of the Church.—
Feebleness of Pope.—Morse and companions visit Naples, Capri, and
Amalfi.—Charms of Amalfi.—Terrible accident.—Flippancy at funerals.—
Campo Santo at Naples.—Gruesome conditions.—Ubiquity of beggars.—
Convent of St. Martino.—Masterpiece of Spagnoletto.—Returns to Rome.—
Paints portrait of Thorwaldsen.—Presented to him in after years by John
Taylor Johnston.—Given to King of Denmark.—Reflections on the social
evil and the theatre.—Death of the Pope.—An assassination.—The
Honorable Mr. Spencer and Catholicism.—Election of Pope Gregory XVI