Dr. Bottiger is enthusiastic in his pursuit of the grand idea he is here set to work out, and the patients catch his enthusiasm, believe in him and in the cure, and that helps the cure amazingly. It is not worth while to discuss the reason of the thing, or to inquire whether the mineral water here flowing at least eight centuries, and probably eighteen and many more, is any better for the cure than other waters. I am inclined to believe that there is superior virtue in the springs. But any waters are good enough, with the advantage of air, exercise, temperance, and recreation, to make most people whole who are only partially broken down. Nine-tenths of these invalids, especially of the richer classes, are victims of their own imprudences. God gave man reason, but he makes a poor use, or rather no use of it, when he works his brain so much as to overwork it, and loads his stomach so as to overload it, and by neglect of the laws of health, which are just as well defined as the moral laws of God, brings upon himself dyspepsia, and that long catalogue of evils that haunt the victim. He must be a bad liver who has a diseased liver. It was his own fault, in the first place, and the warning that he had he neglected, and now when he comes to Soderkoping, or goes to Kissingen, Spa, or Kreusnacht, for the benefit of his health, he is suffering the penalty of his own indulgence or neglect. If an ante-mortem coroner’s inquest should be held on his arrival at the springs, the verdict would be served him right.
There are six or eight water-cure establishments in Sweden, one in Norway, none in Denmark. The system is popular in this part of Europe, and in Germany. Patients appear to be attracted to them not so much by advertisements of special advantages, but by the reports which patients spread abroad, when they go away relieved of their maladies.
Just after the doctor left us a young man called who had heard that two Americans were here, and he wished to get information respecting the United States. He brought with him a phrase-book in German and English, or rather in German and American, for the book was called “The Little American,” and was made to teach the American language. The most it could do was to aid the young to pick up a few phrases of the language, and to stimulate their desire to emigrate to the western world. The book was evidently issued by the steamship or emigration companies, for it gave all needful directions as to the expense and mode of getting to America, and it held out the most encouraging prospects to those who might be tempted to go. The desire is wide-spread—to seek a home in the New World. Books and papers and pictures are industriously spread among the village and rural population to stimulate this desire. The wages of labor are represented as so great in contrast with their own earnings, while nothing is said of the cost of living,—the price of land is said to be so low in comparison with land here, which is not to be bought at all,—that they are filled with the idea of going to a country where they suppose they may get all they want for little or nothing. To what a sad reality they wake up when they set their feet on our shores, and find themselves in the midst of the harpies of New York!
Our bill for boarding and lodging, every thing included, at this village tavern, where we were well cared for, and had all that we could reasonably desire, was less than a dollar a day for each person. Board at private houses can be procured for much less. And if you are not able to pay any thing, and have the dyspepsia, it is quite likely that I could give you a line of introduction to the doctor, who would put you on the free list, pack you, duck you, all but drown you, cure you, and send you on your way rejoicing, with refreshing memories of Soderkoping.
CHAPTER XXXVI.
SWEDEN (Continued).
WE went on board the canal steamer very early in the morning, and found the deck covered with passengers taking their coffee as comfortably as if they were at home. This was not breakfast, that was to come by and by; but they turned out early, and all wanted coffee immediately.
The steamer was large, adapted to the canal, the lake, and sea, for all these waters are to be ploughed in going from Stockholm to Gottenburg. One of the sailors hearing us speaking the English, addressed us in the same language, for he had been in the British service until he spoke the English as well as his own tongue. Indeed, I have rarely heard the English spoken by a foreigner so well as by this Swedish sailor; yet he had acquired it solely by the ear.
Locks are now frequent, and the passage very slow. One of them was tended by a comely maiden, not more than sixteen years old, dressed neatly with an embroidered petticoat, which she had to expose in pushing the beam around to open and close the lock. This was a novel application of female influence, but not very pleasing, being the first thing I had seen in Sweden that was uncivilized and offensive. Lock after lock, slowly and tediously we made our way through a pretty country, the fields well tilled, woods and green meadows interchanging often, and the land fenced off into smaller divisions than we had noticed in any other country. The soil appeared to be good from the abundance of the growth. The houses were neat, and the out-buildings numerous and well arranged, showing signs of thrift and taste. The look was that of a farming people well to do.
We enter another lake, short, but very pretty, by name Asplagen, with richly cultivated shores and sweet homes nestling among the trees; and on the rising grounds we see beautiful pictures of Swedish life, rich and prosperous residences, where it is evident that the good things of this life are enjoyed, and plenty of them.
An elderly Russian gentleman and a Swedish professor of physics in Stockholm were among the passengers; the Swede had travelled in America, and was very happy to meet an American, while the Russian was greatly interested in learning of that wonderful country. He spoke five languages, and he said that his countrymen, if educated at all, could speak both English and French. While these gentlemen were my constant companions on board, they cordially hated each other’s country, the old antipathy of Russian and Swede cropping out continually, and making it a difficult task to keep the peace between them.