On a trip through North America I had visited Yosemite Valley and Mariposa Big Tree Grove, Yellowstone Park, the Grand Canyon of Arizona, Mexico, Mammoth Cave, Niagara Falls, and the Thousand Islands after I had enrolled in the "Cushion College."
Later on, having saved $400, a trip to Europe was made, visiting in that part of the world most of the chief points of interest. I had gone as far East as Vienna, Austria, when my funds became so low that two meals a day was all they would allow of, and I resorted to traveling at night on railroad trains with one compulsory aim in view—to save lodging money. After I had bought my steamship ticket in Rome, Italy, for New York, two weeks before the ship was to sail from Naples, the best I could figure out of the surplus money I would have at the time of sailing—on a two meals a day basis—was four francs—eighty cents. My savings for years, in short, had passed over the office counters of railroad and steamship companies.
As the major portion of my travel was by water, the nautical word Leg has been chosen as a designating term for the different sections of the world visited, embracing South American cities, South Africa, Zululand, and Victoria Falls, in Rhodesia; Australia, New Zealand and principal South Sea Island groups; then back to Africa and up the East Coast to Zanzibar and Mombasa; next through British East Africa to and across Victoria Nyanza into Uganda. Leaving Africa, we sailed over the Indian Ocean to India, visiting, among other features in that country, the Himalaya Mountains, and afterwards Ceylon. From Colombo we traveled eastward to the Straits Settlements, Philippines, China and Japan, concluding observations at the Hawaiian Islands. The journey was from New York to New York over the territory briefly outlined in the foregoing itinerary.
From Sandy Hook we sail for England.
CONTENTS
| PAGE | |
| Introductory | [iii]-[v] |
| LEG ONE | |
| CHAPTER I | |
| Incidents of Ocean Travel—Sights and Scenes in England—LondonRailways and Traffic—Public InstitutionsContrasted | [3] |
| CHAPTER II | |
| Off for South America—Storm in Bay of Biscay—Impressionsof Lisbon, Portugal—Madeira Island—NovelPublic Hack—"Neptuning" Passengers—Crossingthe Equator—Southern Cross | [10] |
| CHAPTER III | |
| Brazilian Ports—Rio de Janeiro—Monroe Palace—ToweringPalms of Rio—Uruguay—The RiverPlate—Characteristics of the People—Buenos Aires—Offfor South Africa | [19] |
| LEG TWO | |
| CHAPTER I | |
| A Tramp Ship at Sea—Wonderful Birds—Ashore inSouth Africa | [37] |
| CHAPTER II | |
| Durban—Its Mixed Population—Sanitary and Clean—TheChrist Thorn—Novel Ways of Trapping Monkeys—TheIndian Coolie, a Taxed Ulcer—"Spiking"a Hindu's Tongue—Horned Ricksha Pullers—Laborin Politics—Harpooning and Cutting upWhales | [43] |
| CHAPTER III | |
| Trip to Zululand—Home Life of the Natives—Wivesfor Cows—Calling on an Old Printer | [74] |
| CHAPTER IV | |
| South African Railway Travel—Scenes of Massacres—Johannesburg—TransvaalGold Mines | [90] |
| CHAPTER V | |
| Pretoria and the Boers—The Kruger Monument—PuzzlingNames | [109] |
| CHAPTER VI | |
| On to Mafeking—Interesting Natives and Souvenirs—SightingRhodes' Grave—Rhodesia—Bulawayo—VictoriaFalls, a Mile of Amber-Colored Lace—FallsCompared—Deadly African Fever | [115] |
| CHAPTER VII | |
| Kimberley, the Diamond City—Bloemfontein, the ConventionCity—Crossing the Dry, Barren KarooCountry—The Ostrich—Capetown—Climate theBest in South Africa—Table Mountain | [129] |
| LEG THREE | |
| CHAPTER I | |
| Leaving the Baltic Sea for Australia—A White Country—TheGold Fields—Crossing the Great AustralianBight—Melbourne—Pensions for Aged—ImmigrationEncouraged | [145] |
| CHAPTER II | |
| Trip to Adelaide—Finest Homes in the World—KangarooCalled the Native—Visit to Ballarat | [157] |
| CHAPTER III | |
| The Heads—Sydney, Its Noted Harbor—Rural Educationon Wheels | [162] |
| CHAPTER IV | |
| Crossing Bass Straits—Tasmania—Hobart—Port Arthurand Its Prison Walls and Memories | [170] |
| LEG FOUR | |
| CHAPTER I | |
| Crossing the Tasman Sea—Last White Settlement—Dunedin,a Scotch City—Christchurch—Wellingtonand Its Splendid Harbor—Pelorus Jack, thePilot Fish | [179] |
| CHAPTER II | |
| To Maoriland—Rotorua—Geyserland—The Maori—Nose-Rubbing—Auckland—Courteous,ProsperousPeople | [190] |
| CHAPTER III | |
| South Sea Islands—The Fijians—Free Railroad Travel—AVegetable Marvel | [199] |
| CHAPTER IV | |
| An Ocean Park—Natives of the Samoan Group—NoLocked Doors—The Samoan a Fatalist | [208] |
| CHAPTER V | |
| Friendly Islands—Pretty Harbor of Vavau—Customs—AStriking, Strapping King—Sacred Animals | [215] |
| LEG FIVE | |
| CHAPTER I | |
| A "Red Ticket" for South Africa—Eight Weeks' Travelfor Ninety Dollars—Portuguese East Africa—Inhambane,Where Death Revels—Beira, the "TrolleyTown" | [225] |
| CHAPTER II | |
| German East Africa—Women in Iron Yokes—Zanzibar—OldSlave Mart—Cloves Thrive—Tanga | [232] |
| CHAPTER III | |
| Mombasa—A Three Years' Residence Limit—In theBig Game Country—Nature's "Greatest Show onEarth"—Nairobi—Dead Left to Wild Beasts | [240] |
| CHAPTER IV | |
| Naked Natives—Victoria Nyanza—Bubonic Flea—Uganda—African"Freight Train"—SleepingSickness—Deadly Tsetse Fly—Beautiful Entebbe—TheRubber Country—Ant Eaters—Kampala—Jinjaand Ripon Falls—River Nile | [250] |
| LEG SIX | |
| CHAPTER I | |
| Off for India—Ship Doctor Hunting for Jiggers—Seychelles—Bombay—TheParsi—Towers of Silence—HandsomestRailway Station | [265] |
| CHAPTER II | |
| In Baroda—Sacred Monkeys—Ahmedabad—Birds,Animals and Insects Worshiped—Agra—The TajMahal—Plural Wives—Delhi, Rebuilding—Elephant"Rocks" the Cradle | [278] |
| CHAPTER III | |
| Aligarh—Novel Water Carrier—Cawnpore—TheMassacre Well—Lucknow—Benares—HinduGods—Monkey Temple—Bathing Ghats—Sarnathand Its Temple Ruins | [292] |
| CHAPTER IV | |
| Himalayas—Magnificent Views—Kinchinjanga, theGiant—Darjeeling—Mountain Tribes | [306] |
| CHAPTER V | |
| Calcutta—Memories of "The Black Hole"—Blood Offerings—AMecca for Hindu Widows Who Bathe—Madras—FirstChristian Church in India | [316] |
| CHAPTER VI | |
| Colombo—Ceylon—Cinnamon Tree Industry—TrottingBullocks Afford Rapid Transit—Kandy—Buddha'sTooth—Elephants in Trucking—NutmegTrees | [327] |
| LEG SEVEN | |
| CHAPTER I | |
| Nine Weeks to the Orient—Singapore—Malay StatesRubber Mad—Straits Settlements—Hogs in Baskets—Chinamenin Motor Cars—A "Dutch"Wife—Off to Hongkong—A Horseless Town—MountainTravel | [335] |
| CHAPTER II | |
| Canton—Chinese Pirates—Lost Within the City Walls—Cityof the Dead—"Feeding" the Dead—QuaintHome Customs—Chinese Industrious—NoWaste Land | [347] |
| CHAPTER III | |
| Manila—Poor Water, Whisky Plentiful—Consumption—SquirrelNest Homes—Chinese OpiumSmugglers—Evicting the Dead—No Vault Rent,No Resting Place—The Manila Wall | [354] |
| CHAPTER IV | |
| Shanghai—Professional Weepers—Family Feeding byContract—Wheelbarrow Transit—The Bund—LeavingWusung for Japan—Japanese Girls CoalingShip | [362] |
| CHAPTER V | |
| The Inland Sea—Kobe—The Jap's Home—StreetCars and Rickshas in Competition—Men, Womenand Children in Harness—Income Tax on Labor—KyotoPaper Houses—Kyoto Temples—Yokohama—Kamakura—TheDaibutsu Bronze Giant | [371] |
| CHAPTER VI | |
| Tokyo—Mikado's Palace—Asakusa Temple—GeishaWomen—Hari-Kiri—Black Teeth—Nikko, ItsTemples—Funeral Festivals | [383] |
| CHAPTER VII | |
| To Honolulu, Hawaii—Recrossing the 180th Meridian—CheapIce and Bananas—"Don't Spit" Signs—SugarCane—The Prize "Black Maria" of theWorld—Education—Natives Seek Easy Jobs—Homeof the Last Queen—Hilo—To KilaueaCrater—The Volcano in Action—An AppallingScene | [394] |
| Itinerary | [405] |
| Map. | |
ILLUSTRATIONS
| Towering Palms of Rio. Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. (Seepage [22]) | [Frontispiece] |
| FACING PAGE | |
| Southern Cross. (See page [17].) | [16] |
| Plaza de Mayo (top) and Avenida de Mayo (bottom).Buenos Aires, Argentine | [30] |
| Jim Fish Was the Swiftest Puller that Ever Wore aBrace of Horns. Durban, South Africa. (See page[61]) | [60] |
| Zulus "Scoffing" Mealy Meal. Zululand, South Africa | [78] |
| Native Huts and Kafir Corn (top); African Transport(bottom). South Africa | [96] |
| Victoria Falls, Rhodesia. (See page [122]) | [122] |
| Parliament House, Melbourne (top), and Victoria Markets,Sydney, Australia (bottom) | [162] |
| Maori Women Cooking by Boiling Springs (right).(See page [193].) Maori Women's Salute—RubbingNoses and Shaking Hands (left). New Zealand.(See page [195]) | [194] |
| Interior of Samoan Home, Built of Breadfruit Tree, Securedby Coir; No Nails Used. Samoa. (See page[213]) | [212] |
| Vigil on the Veld (top), British East Africa; "Trolley"Pushers (bottom), Beira, Portuguese East Africa.(See page [230].) | [248] |
| Parsi (right), Bombay, India. (See page [271].) Bhisti(Water-Carrier) (left). India. (See page [293].) | [270] |
| Types of Indian Soldiers. The Goorkha (right). (Seepage [311].) The Sikh (left). (See page [311].) | [290] |
| Mount Kinchinjanga (Himalayas). Center Peak inCircle, Mount Everest. Darjeeling, India. (Photo,Burlington) | [312] |
| Small Colony of Half a Million Sampan Dwellers ofPearl River; These Water Homes Save House Rent.Canton, China. (See page [351].) | [352] |
| Panorama of Honolulu, Hawaii | [398] |
LEG ONE
SEVEN LEGS
ACROSS THE SEAS