Our chief assistance, however, has been drawn from a MS belonging to the Editor, denoted, when cited, by the signature MS. Ed. It is a vellum miscellany in small quarto, and the part respecting this subject consists of ninety-one English recipes (or nyms) in cookery. These are disposed into two parts, and are intituled, 'Hic incipiunt universa servicia tam de carnibus quam de pissibus.' [123] The second part, relates to the dressing of fish, and other lenten fare, though forms are also there intermixed which properly belong to flesh-days. This leads me to observe, that both here, and in the Roll, messes are sometimes accommodated, by making the necessary alterations, both to flesh and fish-days. [124] Now, though the subjects of the MS are various, yet the hand-writing is uniform; and at the end of one of the tracts is added, 'Explicit massa Compoti, Anno Dñi M'lo CCC'mo octogesimo primo ipso die Felicis et Audacti.' [125], i.e. 30 Aug. 1381, in the reign of Rich. II. The language and orthography accord perfectly well with this date, and the collection is consequently contemporary with our Roll, and was made chiefly, though not altogether, for the use of great tables, as appears from the sturgeon, and the great quantity of venison therein prescribed for.
As this MS is so often referred to in the annotations, glossary, and even in this preface, and is a compilation of the same date, on the same subject, and in the same language, it has been thought adviseable to print it, and subjoin it to the Roll; and the rather, because it really furnishes a considerable enlargement on the subject, and exhibits many forms unnoticed in the Roll.
To conclude this tedious preliminary detail, though unquestionably a most necessary part of his duty, the Editor can scarcely forbear laughing at himself, when he reflects on his past labours, and recollects those lines of the poet Martial;
Turpe est difficiles habere nugas,
Et stultus labor est ineptiarum. II. 86.
and that possibly mesdames Carter and Raffald, with twenty others, might have far better acquitted themselves in the administration of this province, than he has done. He has this comfort and satisfaction, however, that he has done his best; and that some considerable names amongst the learned, Humelbergius, Torinus, Barthius, our countryman Dr. Lister, Almeloveen, and others, have bestowed no less pains in illustrating an author on the same subject, and scarcely of more importance, the Pseudo-Apicius.
[1] If, according to Petavius and Le Clerc, the world was created in autumn, when the fruits of the earth were both plentiful and in the highest perfection, the first man had little occasion for much culinary knowledge; roasting or boiling the cruder productions, with modes of preserving those which were better ripened, seem to be all that was necessary for him in the way of Cury, And even after he was displaced from Paradise, I conceive, as many others do, he was not permitted the use of animal food [Gen. i. 29.]; but that this was indulged to us, by an enlargement of our charter, after the Flood, Gen. ix, 3. But, without wading any further in the argument here, the reader is referred to Gen. ii. 8. seq. iii. 17, seq. 23.
[Addenda: add 'vi. 22. where Noah and the beasts are to live on the same food.'] [2] Genesis xviii. xxvii. Though their best repasts, from the politeness of the times, were called by the simple names of Bread, or a Morsel of bread, yet they were not unacquainted with modes of dressing flesh, boiling, roasting, baking; nor with sauce, or seasoning, as salt and oil, and perhaps some aromatic herbs. Calmet v. Meats and Eating, and qu. of honey and cream, ibid. [3] Athenæus, lib. xii. cap. 3. [4] Athenæus, lib. xii. cap. 3. et Cafaubon. See also Lister ad Apicium, præf. p. ix. Jungerm. ad Jul. Polluccm, lib. vi. c. 10. [5] See below. 'Tamen uterque [Torinus et Humelbergius] hæc scripta [i, e. Apicii] ad medicinam vendicarunt.' Lister, præf. p. iv. viii. ix. [6] Athenaæus, p. 519. 660. [7] Priv. Life of the Romans, p. 171. Lister's Præf, p. iii, but Ter. An, i. 1. Casaub. ad Jul. Capitolin. cap. 5. [8] Casaub. ad Capitolin. l. c. [9] Lister's Præf. p. ii. vi. xii. [10] Fabric. Bibl. Lat. tom. II. p. 794. Hence Dr. Bentley ad Hor. ii. ferm. 8. 29. stiles it Pseudapicius. Vide Listerum, p. iv. [11] Cæsar de B. G. v. § 10. [12] Strabo, lib. iv. p. 200. Pegge's Essay on Coins of Cunob, p. 95. [13] Archæologia, iv. p. 61. Godwin, de Præsul. p. 596, seq. [14] Malmsb. p. 9. Galfr. Mon. vi. 12. [15] Lister. ad Apic. p. xi. where see more to the same purpose. [16] Spelm. Life of Ælfred, p. 66. Drake, Eboracum. Append, p. civ. [17] Speed's History. [18] Mons. Mallet, cap. 12. [19] Wilkins, Concil. I. p. 204. Drake, Ebor. p. 316. Append, p. civ. cv. [20] Menage, Orig. v. Gourmand. [21] Lord Lyttelton, Hist. of H. II. vol. iii. p. 49. [22] Harrison, Descript. of Britain, p. 165, 166. [23] Stow, p. 102. 128. [24] Lord Lyttelton observes, that the Normans were delicate in their food, but without excess. Life of Hen. II. vol. III. p. 47. [25] Dugd. Bar. I. p. 109. Henry II. served to his son. Lord Lyttelton, IV. p. 298. [26] Godwin de Præsul. p. 695, renders Carver by Dapiser, but this I cannot approve. See Thoroton. p. 23. 28. Dugd. Bar. I. p. 441. 620. 109. Lib. Nig. p. 342. Kennet, Par. Ant. p. 119. And, to name no more, Spelm. in voce. The Carver was an officer inferior to the Dapiser, or Steward, and even under his control. Vide Lel. Collect. VI. p. 2. And yet I find Sir Walter Manny when young was carver to Philippa queen of king Edward III. Barnes Hist. of E. III. p. 111. The Steward had the name of Dapiser, I apprehend, from serving up the first dish. V. supra. [27] Sim. Dunelm. col. 227. Hoveden, p. 469. Malms. de Pont. p. 286. [28] Lib. Nig. Scaccarii, p. 347. [29] Fleta, II. cap. 75. [30] Du Fresne, v. Magister. [31] Du Fresne, ibid. [32] Du Fresne, v. Coquus. The curious may compare this List with Lib. Nig. p. 347. [33] In Somner, Ant. Cant. Append. p. 36. they are under the Magister Coquinæ, whose office it was to purvey; and there again the chief cooks are proveditors; different usages might prevail at different times and places. But what is remarkable, the Coquinarius, or Kitchener, which seems to answer to Magister Coquinæ, is placed before the Cellarer in Tanner's Notitia, p. xxx. but this may be accidental. [34] Du Fresne, v. Coquus. [35] Somner, Append. p. 36. [36] Somner, Ant. Cant. Append. p. 36. [37] Somner, p. 41. [38] Somner, p. 36, 37, 39, sæpius. [39] Somner, l. c. [40] M. Paris, p4. 69. [41] Dugd. Bar. I. p. 45. Stow, p. 184. M. Paris, p. 377. 517. M.
Westm. p. 364.
[42] Lel. Collectan. VI. p. 7. seq.
[43] Ibid. p. 9. 13.
[44] Compare Leland, p. 3. with Godwin de Præsul. p. 695. and so
Junius in Etymol. v. Sewer.
[45] Leland, p. 8, 9. There are now two yeomen of the mouth in the
king's household.
[46] That of George Neville, archbishop of York, 6 Edw. IV. and that
of William Warham, archbishop of Canterbury, A.D. 1504. These were
both of them inthronization feasts. Leland, Collectan. VI. p. 2 and
16 of Appendix. They were wont minuere sanguinem after these superb
entertainments, p. 32.
[47] Hor. II. Od. xiv. 28. where see Mons. Dacier.
[48] Sixty-two were employed by archbishop Neville. And the hire of
cooks at archbishop Warham's feast came to 23 l. 6 s. 8 d.
[49] Strype, Life of Cranmer, p. 451, or Lel. Coll. ut supra, p. 38.
Sumptuary laws in regard to eating were not unknown in ancient Rome.
Erasm. Colloq. p. 81. ed. Schrev. nor here formerly, see Lel. Coll.
VI. p. 36. for 5 Ed. II.
[50] I presume it may be the same Roll which Mr. Hearne mentions in
his Lib. Nig. Scaccarii, I. p. 346. See also three different letters
of his to the earl of Oxford, in the Brit. Mus. in the second of
which he stiles the Roll a piece of antiquity, and a very great
rarity indeed. Harl. MSS. No. 7523.
[51] See the Proem.
[52] This lord was grandson of Edward duke of Bucks, beheaded A. 1521,
whose son Henry was restored in blood; and this Edward, the grandson,
born about 1571, might be 14 or 15 years old when he presented the
Roll to the Queen.
[53] Mr. Topham's MS. has socas among the fish; and see archbishop
Nevil's Feast, 6 E. IV. to be mentioned below.
[54] Of which see an account below.
[55] See Northumb. Book, p. 107, and Notes.
[56] As to carps, they were unknown in England t. R. II. Fulier,
Worth. in Sussex, p. 98. 113. Stow, Hist. 1038.
[57] The Italians still call the hop cattiva erba. There was a
petition against them t. H. VI. Fuller, Worth. p. 317, &c. Evelyn,
Sylva, p. 201. 469. ed. Hunter.
[58] Lister, Præf. ad Apicium, p. xi.
[59] So we have lozengs of golde. Lel. Collect. IV. p. 227. and a
wild boar's head gylt, p. 294. A peacock with gylt neb. VI. p. 6.
Leche Lambart gylt, ibid.
[60] No. 68. 20. 58. See my friend Dr. Percy on the Northumberland-
Book, p. 415. and MS Ed. 34.
[61] No. 47. 51. 84.
[62] No. 93. 132. MS Ed. 37. [63] Perhaps Turmerick. See ad loc. [64] Ter. Andr. I. 1. where Donatus and Mad. Dacier explain it of Cooking. Mr. Hearne, in describing our Roll, see above, p. xi, by an unaccountable mistake, read Fary instead of Cury, the plain reading of the MS. [65] Junii Etym. v. Diet. [66] Reginaldus Phisicus. M. Paris, p. 410. 412. 573. 764. Et in Vit. p. 94. 103. Chaucer's Medicus is a doctor of phisick, p.4. V. Junii Etym. voce Physician. For later times, v. J. Rossus, p. 93. [67] That of Donatus is modest 'Culina medicinæ famulacrix est.' [68] Lel. Collect. IV. p. 183. 'Diod. Siculus refert primos Ægypti Reges victum quotidianum omnino sumpsisse ex medicorum præscripto.' Lister ad Apic. p. ix. [69] See also Lylie's Euphues, p. 282. Cavendish, Life of Wolsey, p. 151, where we have callis, malè; Cole's and Lyttleton's Dict. and Junii Etymolog. v. Collice. [70] See however, No. 191, and Editor's MS II. 7. [71] Vide the proeme. [72] See above. [73] Univ. Hist. XV. p. 352. 'Æsopus pater linguas avium humana vocales lingua cænavit; filius margaritas.' Lister ad Apicium, p. vii. [74] Jul. Capitolinus, c. 5. [75] Athenæus, lib. xii. c. 7. Something of the same kind is related of Heliogabalus, Lister Præf. ad Apic. p. vii. [76] To omit the paps of a pregnant sow, Hor. I. Ep. xv. 40. where see Mons. Dacier; Dr. Fuller relates, that the tongue of carps were accounted by the ancient Roman palate-men most delicious meat. Worth. in Sussex. See other instances of extravagant Roman luxury in Lister's Præf. to Apicius, p. vii. [77] See, however, No. 33, 34, 35, 146.
[Addenda: add 'reflect on the Spanish Olio or Olla podrida, and the French fricassée.'] [78] The king, in Shakespeare, Hen. VIII. act iv. sc. 2. and 3. calls the gifts of the sponsors, spoons. These were usually gilt, and, the figures of the apostles being in general carved on them, were called apostle spoons. See Mr. Steevens's note in Ed. 1778, vol. VII. p. 312, also Gent. Mag. 1768, p. 426. [79] Lel. Collect. IV. p. 328. VI. p. 2. [80] See Dr. Percy's curious notes on the Northumb. Book, p. 417. [81] Ibid. VI. p. 5. 18. [82] They were not very common at table among the Greeks. Casaub. ad Athenæum, col. 278. but see Lel. Coll. VI. p. 7. [83] Leland, Collectan. VI. p. 2. Archbishop Warham also had his carver, ibid. p. 18. See also, IV. p. 236. 240. He was a great officer. Northumb. Book, p. 445. [84] Ames, Typ. Ant. p. 90. The terms may also be seen in Rand. Holme III. p. 78. [85] Dr. Percy, 1. c. [86] Thicknesse, Travels, p., 260. [87] Dr. Birch, Life of Henry prince of Wales, p. 457. seq. [88] No. 91, 92. 160. [89] Bishop Patrick on Genesis xviii. 8. [90] Calmer, v. Butter. So Judges iv, 19. compared with v. 25. [91] Ib. No. 13, 14, 15. [92] Stow, Hist. p. 1038. [93] Lel. Coll. VI. p. 30. and see Dr. Percy on Northumb. Book, p. 414. [94] Archæologia, I. p. 319. Ill, p. 53. [95] Barrington's Observ. on Statutes, p. 209. 252. Edit. 3d. Archæolog. I. p. 330. Fitz-Stephen, p. 33. Lel. Coll. VI. p. 14. Northumb. Book, p. 6. and notes. [96] No. 20. 64. 99. [97] No. 99. [98] Fun. Mon. p. 624 [99] Dr. Lister, Præf. ad Apicium, p. xii. [100] Calmet. Dict. v. Eating. [101] Calmet. Dict. v. Meats. [102] Barnes, Hist. of E. III. p. 111. [103] No. 70, Editor's MS. 17. alibi. [104] Moll, Geogr. II. p. 130. Harris, Coll. of Voyages, I. p. 874. Ed. Campbell. [105] No. 20. 148. [106] Glossary to Chaucer. See the Northumb. Book, p. 415 and 19. also Quincy's Dispens. and Brookes's Nat. Hist. of Vegetables. [107] Lister, Præf. ad Apicium, p. xii. [108] Plinius, Nat. Hist. XII. cap. 7. [109] Bochart. III. col. 332. [110] See our Gloss. voce Greynes. [111] Lye, in Junii Etymolog. [112] But see the next article. [113] Doing, hewing, hacking, grinding, kerving, &c. are easily understood. [114] By combining the Index and Glossary together, we have had an opportunity of elucidating some terms more at large than could conveniently be done in the notes. We have also cast the Index to the Roll, and that to the Editor's MS, into one alphabet; distinguishing, however, the latter from the former. [115] Godwin de Præsul. p. 684. [116] In Dr. Drake's edition of archbishop Parker, p. lxiii. it is given to archbishop Winchelsea: but see Mr. Battely's Append. to Cantuaria Sacra, p. 27. or the Archæologia, I. p. 330. and Leland's Collectanea, VI. p. 30. where it is again printed, and more at large, and ascribed to Warham. [117] Thorne, Chron. inter X Script. Col. 2010. or Lel. Collect. VI. p. 34. Ed. 1770. [118] Leland, Collect. VI. p. 2. See also Randle Holme, III. p. 77. Bishop Godwin de Præsul. p. 695. Ed. Richardson; where there are some considerable variations in the messes or services, and he and the Roll in Leland will correct one another. [119] Vol. IV. p. 226. [120] See first paragraph before. [121] Leland's Collect. VI. p. 16. [122] Holme, Acad. of Armory, III. p. 81. [123] It is pissibus again in the title to the Second Part. [124] No. 7. 84. here No. 17. 35. 97. [125] In the common calendars of our missals and breviaries, the latter saint is called Adauctus, but in the Kalend. Roman. of Joh. Fronto, Paris. 1652, p. 126, he is written Audactus, as here; and see Martyrolog. Bedæ, p. 414.