Thus far observed, begin the work by first clearing away all weeds about the plants, and loosen the earth a little around them, and if the surface is low, add some mould thereto sufficient to raise it high enough to receive the layers easily; then begin laying the shoots one by one; strip off the lower leaves so as to have some inches of a clear shoot below; and trim the top leaves shorter and even, and then slit or gash the shoot on the under side; in doing which, fix on a joint about the middle of the shoot underneath, and with your sharp knife cut half through the joint, and slanting upwards; so as to slit the shoot up the middle half an inch, or but little more; which done, directly lay it, by bending it down to the earth with the gash or slit part open, making an opening in the earth, and peg it down with one or two of the small-hooked sticks, and earth over the body of the layer an inch or two deep, still keeping the slit open and the top raised gently upright, pressing the earth moderately upon them; and in this manner proceed with laying all the shoots on each plant; and when all are laid, give a gentle watering to settle the earth close about the layers, and repeat it frequently in dry weather.

They will soon emit roots at the gash or slit part, generally at the bottom of the tongue, and in five or six weeks will often be rooted fit for separating and planting off from the parent, so that when they have been about five, six, or seven weeks laid, you will examine the progress they have made in rooting, by opening the earth gently about some of the layers; and as soon as they appear to be tolerably rooted, let them be cut off from the old plant with a sharp knife, in order to be timely planted out in nursery beds, that they may root more abundantly, and get due strength before winter; observing, in cutting them off from the mother plant, to open the ground so as to take them up with all the roots they have made, and cut them clean off beyond the gash; afterwards trim off any naked woody part or bottom, but preserve all the roots, and trim the long tops a little, then plant them in nursery rows, six inches asunder, or you may prick some in small pots, one layer in each, giving water directly at planting, and repeat it often in dry weather till they take good root, and grow freely, keeping them clean from weeds.

Those in the nursery beds will, by October, be good strong plants. The choicest sorts may then be planted in pots, to move under occasional shelter in time of severe frost, and for which purpose, either use small pots (32) to contain them all winter, or plant them in large pots (24 or 16) to remain to flower, observing to take them up out of the nursery beds for potting, &c., with a garden trowel, each layer with a good ball of earth about the roots; and having the pots ready, place a shell over the holes at bottom, and put some good light rich earth therein; plant one layer with its ball about the roots entire in each pot, fill up with more earth, and give some water; you may also at the same time plant some of the more ordinary or common sorts into flower-borders or beds, to stand the full weather all the year; but the choicer sorts in the pots may, in November, be placed close together, either in a garden-frame, to have occasional protection of the glasses, or mats, in severe frost, and have the full air in all open weather and mild days, or may be plunged in a raised bed of any dry compost, raised some inches above the common level, and arched over with hoop arches, in order to be protected with occasional covering of garden mats when hard frosts prevail; but in either method, be sure to expose them fully in all open weather, as aforesaid.

In the spring, such as have remained all winter in small pots should, in February or early in March, be turned out with the ball of earth about the root, and planted into larger pots, to remain for flowering, giving proper waterings; and those which were potted at once into larger pots in autumn should now have the earth stirred at top, taking out some, and fill up with fresh good earth, and give a little water.

The layers planted in the common borders of the pleasure and flower garden require no other care than keeping them clean from weeds, and tying up the flower stalks to sticks when they are advanced long enough to require support.


1100. To remove Herbs and Flowers in the Summer.—If you have occasion to transplant in the summer season, let it be in the evening after the heat is past; plant and water the same immediately, and there will be no danger from the heat next day; but be careful, in digging up the earth, you do not break any of the young shoots, as the sap will exude out of the same to the great danger of the plants.


1101. New Method of raising Cucumbers.—From the best seed that can be got of the common prickly cucumber, raise plants on a moderate hot-bed, not hurrying them too much in their growth. In May, when the danger of the frost is nearly over, familiarize the plants, by degrees, to the air, and towards the latter end of the month plant them in the open ground against a south wall. Take care not to give them too much water, as that will injure the fruit. When they have run up about five feet, they will send forth blossoms, and the fruit will begin to show itself soon after. The flesh of cucumbers raised in this manner will be thicker and firmer, and the flavor vastly more delicious, than those raised from the same seed, but planted in the ordinary way, and the runners suffered to trail on the ground. Though a south wall in most gardens, is too much appropriated to other things, to give room for cucumbers in general, yet in every garden a few plants may be so trained by way of rarity, and to save seed, which is found to be greatly improved by this method, so as to produce much better cucumbers in the common way of raising them. One or two plants, so raised, will supply a sufficient quantity of seed for a large garden.