TO
MY MOTHER


CONTENTS

[CHAPTERI]
THE COAST
Siwa — Whereabouts — The ex-Khedive andGermans — The ancient Libyans — The coastal belt — The MariutRailway — Mersa Matruh — The Bay — Antony and Cleopatra — GreekTraders — Motor Maniacs — Sponge fishers — From Matruh to Sollum —Barrani and Bagbag — Sollum Bay — Western Desert Arabs,characteristics, tents, carpets, appearance, marriage customs,women — An Arab meal — “Gold tooth” — Buried money — Horses —Hawking — Silugi hounds — Hunting — Shooting — The Scarp — Flowers— The Rains — Houses — The Cruiser Abdel Moneim — Atripper1
[CHAPTERII]
THE DESERT
The Frontier Districts Administration —The Camel Corps — Harimat — Story of a stove — The Booza Camp — Themen — Diary of trek from Sollum to Siwa — Departure — Augerin, aRoman cistern — Bir Hamed — A desert dance — Ascent of Scarp — Qurel Beid — Camel riding — Evening on the desert — Camp — Utterdesert — Mud pans — Mirage — “Khuz” bread — Desert tracks —Bisharin trackers — Night marching — A caravan — “The country ofDogs” — Among the ravines — The Megahiz Spring — Siwa — DistrictOfficer’s House — “Taking over” wives — A typical day — Siwanmanners — The Sheikhs — The staff — View from Siwa — Aghourmivillage — A slave woman — A rifle raid37
[CHAPTER III]
THE HISTORY OF SIWA
[FIRST PERIOD. THETEMPLE OF JUPITER AMMON]
The Siwan Deity — A local religion —Legendary origin of the God — Herodotus — The Kingdom of theAmmonians — Lysander’s visit — Cambyses — A lost army — Cimon’sdeath foretold — The “Fountain of the Sun” — The temples — TheKing’s court — The temple to-day — Alexander visits Siwa — Hisadventures on the way — Ritual of the temple — Decline of its fame— Strabo’s theory — The Romans — Christianity74
[SECONDPERIOD. MEDIÆVAL SIWA]
Arab invasion of Egypt — Attempts tosubjugate the oasis — Arab historians — The marvels of Siwa —Hidden cities — Emerald mines — Siwans become Mohammedans — KingRashwan — “The Thirty” — Sidi Suliman — Legends about him — Styleof living — Quarrel between east and west — Civil wars — Recentdisturbance — Browne at Siwa — Hornemann89
[THIRDPERIOD. THE TURKISH RULE]
Invasion of Siwa — Hassein Bey — ColonelButin — Ali Balli, the Omda — Hamilton at Siwa, his imprisonment —Punitive expedition — Death of Yousif Ali — Turkish mamurs — Adesert firebrand — “The Widow’s War” — Osman Habun — Abdel Arti,smuggler — Death of “The Habun”102
[FOURTHPERIOD. SIWA AND THE WAR]
The Italians in Tripoli — Germanintrigues — The Senussi confraternity — Mohammed el Senussi, hislife at Siwa — Caves of the Kasr Hassuna — Growth of the Senussi —Mohammed el Mahdi — Sayed Ahmed — The situation in 1915 —Evacuation of Sollum — Capture of the crew of the Tara —Matruh — Battle on Christmas Day — Wadi Majid — Battle of Agagiaand occupation of Barrani — Sayed Ahmed at Siwa — Occupation ofSollum — Sayed Ahmed goes to Dakhla and back — Siwans revolt —Battle of Girba — Occupation of Siwa — Rescue of Tara crewby Duke of Westminster — Sayed Ahmed retires to Constantinople117
[CHAPTER IV]
SIWA TOWN
The town — Architecture — Wells — Customof whitewash — Date Markets — Mosques — School — Shops — Interiorof houses — The Roofs — “Dululas” — The Siwan race — Men — Women —Appearance — Clothes — Religious sects — Springs, gardens,irrigation, water rights — Salt lakes — Fever — Spring cleaning —“Sultan Mousa” — A luncheon party — The ceremony of tea — Appetites— Dog eaters — Life of an Englishman in Siwa — Two “cases” — Womenwitnesses — Bakshish133
[CHAPTERV]
SUBURBAN OASES
Zeitoun and Kareished — The oasis of Gara— The village — The curse of Sheikh Abdel Sayed — A legend of Gara— The Mejberry pass — El Areg and Bahrein — The Arabs of Maragi —The northern oases — Jerabub — Sheikh Ithneini and his treasures —Terra incognita — Kufra — Excavating in Siwa — The “OldestInhabitant” his wedding — Industries, baskets, mats, andearthenware — The “Bedouin Industries” — Animals and birds —Snakes, snake charming177
[CHAPTERVI]
CUSTOMS AND SUPERSTITIONS
Belief in Superstitions — Divine andSatanic magic — Demons — A birthday — Naming the child — Women —Marriage and divorce — A wedding, the bride’s bath, fetching thebride, presents — “Ghrula,” customs of a widow — The Town Crier —Funerals — Cemeteries — Evil Eye, charms to avert the curse — Avisit to a witch — Methods used to obtain a husband — Invokingdemons — Discovering stolen property — Exposing a thief —Divination and fortune telling — Sacrificing a bull — ThePilgrimage, rolling the bangles, to ensure a safe journey — “Yom elAsher,” the children’s “Christmas”207
[CHAPTER VII]
“FANTASIAS”
Social life in Siwa — Games — “Lubki”drinkers — Giving alms to the poor — Sheikhs in fiction and in fact— “Beit el Mal” — Ramadan, the Mohammedan Lent — The Mulid of SidiSuliman — Paying calls — Etiquette of eating — The religious danceof the Medinia — The “Zikr” — Bacchanalian revels — Siwan music andsinging — Women dancers239

[CONCLUSION]

[BIBLIOGRAPHY]

[INDEX]


ILLUSTRATIONS

The Walls of Siwa[Frontispiece]
Col. The Honble. M. G. Talbot, C.B.;Sheikh Idris el Senussi; and The Idrisi of Luxorto face[foreword]
The Authorpage[2]
A Falconer outside a Bedouin Camp[26]
Silugi Hounds[30]
Camel Corps[44]
Camel Corps trekking to Siwa, nearMegahiz Pass[58]
Sheikh Mahdi Abdel Nebi, of Aghourmi,with his Daughter and Cousin[70]
Ruins of “Omm Beyda,” The Temple ofJupiter Ammon[86]
The Citadel and Mosque of El Atik[98]
Gate into the Western Quarter[112]
“Kasr Hassuna,” The District Officer’sHouse[120]
Sheikh Mohammed Idris, the Chief of theSenussi[132]
The Western Quarter from an EasternRoof[144]
Cleaning Tamousy Spring[160]
In the Western Quarter[176]
The Spring of Zeitoun[178]
Siwa Town from the South[200]
A Bride—The Daughter of Bashu Habunbefore her Wedding[214]
The Town-Crier’s Daughter[222]
A Little Siwan Girl[238]
A “Fantasia” at the tomb of SidiSuliman[252]
[Map.]