Great wave and retreat of the sea.—A great wave swept over the coast of Spain, and is said to have been sixty feet high at Cadiz. At Tangier, in Africa, it rose and fell eighteen times on the coast. At Funchal, in Madeira, it rose full fifteen feet perpendicular above high-water mark, although the tide, which ebbs and flows there seven feet, was then at half-ebb. Besides entering the city, and committing great havoc, it overflowed other seaports in the island. At Kinsale, in Ireland, a body of water rushed into the harbor, whirled round several vessels, and poured into the market-place.
It was before stated that the sea first retired at Lisbon; and this retreat of the ocean from the shore, at the commencement of an earthquake, and its subsequent return in a violent wave, is a common occurrence. In order to account for the phenomenon, Michell imagined a subsidence at the bottom of the sea, from the giving way of the roof of some cavity in consequence of a vacuum produced by the condensation of steam. Such condensation, he observes, might be the first effect of the introduction of a large body of water into fissures and cavities already filled with steam, before there has been sufficient time for the heat of the incandescent lava to turn so large a supply of water into steam, which being soon accomplished causes a greater explosion.
Another proposed explanation is, the sudden rise of the land, which would cause the sea to abandon immediately the ancient line of coast; and if the shore, after being thus heaved up, should fall again to its original level, the ocean would return. This theory, however, will not account for the facts observed during the Lisbon earthquake; for the retreat preceded the wave, not only on the coast of Portugal, but also at the island of Madeira, and several other places. If the upheaving of the coast of Portugal had caused the retreat, the motion of the waters, when propagated to Madeira, would have produced a wave previous to the retreat. Nor could the motion of the waters at Madeira have been caused by a different local earthquake; for the shock travelled from Lisbon to Madeira in two hours, which agrees with the time which it required to reach other places equally distant.[686]
The following is another solution of the problem, which has been offered:—Suppose a portion of the bed of the sea to be suddenly upheaved; the first effect will be to raise over the elevated part a body of water, the momentum of which will carry it much above the level it will afterwards assume, causing a draught or receding of the water from the neighboring coasts, followed immediately by the return of the displaced water, which will also be impelled by its momentum much farther and higher on the coast than its former level.[687]
Mr. Darwin, when alluding to similar waves on the coast of Chili, states his opinion, that "the whole phenomenon is due to a common undulation in the water, proceeding from a line or point of disturbance some little way distant. If the waves," he says, "sent off from the paddles of a steam-vessel be watched breaking on the sloping shore of a still river, the water will be seen first to retire two or three feet, and then to return in little breakers, precisely analogous to those consequent on an earthquake." He also adds, that "the earthquake-wave occurs some time after the shock, the water at first retiring both from the shores of the mainland and of outlying islands, and then returning in mountainous breakers. Their size is modified by the form of the neighboring coast; for it is ascertained in South America, that places situated at the head of shoaling bays have suffered most, whereas towns like Valparaiso, seated close on the border of a profound ocean, have never been inundated, though severely shaken by earthquakes."[688]
More recently (February, 1846), Mr. Mallet, in his memoir above cited (p. [475]), has endeavored to bring to bear on this difficult subject the more advanced knowledge obtained of late years respecting the true theory of waves. He conceives that when the origin of the shock is beneath the deep ocean, one wave is propagated through the land, and another moving with inferior velocity is formed on the surface of the ocean. This last rolls in upon the land long after the earth-wave has arrived and spent itself. However irreconcilable it may be to our common notions of solid bodies, to imagine them capable of transmitting, with such extreme velocity, motions analogous to tidal waves, it seems nevertheless certain that such undulations are produced, and it is supposed that when the shock passes a given point, each particle of the solid earth describes an ellipse in space. The facility with which all the particles of a solid mass can be made to vibrate may be illustrated, says Gay Lussac, by many familiar examples. If we apply the ear to one end of a long wooden beam, and listen attentively when the other end is struck by a pin's head, we hear the shock distinctly; which shows that every fibre throughout the whole length has been made to vibrate. The rattling of carriages on the pavement shakes the largest edifices; and in the quarries underneath some quarters in Paris, it is found that the movement is communicated through a considerable thickness of rock.[689]
The great sea-wave originating directly over the centre of disturbance is propagated, as Michell correctly stated, in every direction, like the circle upon a pond when a pebble is dropped into it, the different rates at which it moves depending (as he also suggested) on variations in the depth of the water. This wave of the sea, says Mr. Mallet, is raised by the impulse of the shock immediately below it, which in great earthquakes lifts up the ground two or three feet perpendicularly. The velocity of the shock, or earth-wave, is greater because it "depends upon a function of the elasticity of the crust of the earth, whereas the velocity of the sea-wave depends upon a function of the depth of the sea."
"Although the shock in its passage under the deep ocean gives no trace of its progress, it no sooner gets into soundings or shallow water, than it gives rise to another and smaller wave of the sea. It carries, as it were, upon its back, this lesser aqueous undulation; a long narrow ridge of water which corresponds in form and velocity to itself, being pushed up by the partial elevation of the bottom. It is this small wave, called technically the 'forced sea-wave,' which communicates the earthquake-shock to ships at sea, as if they had struck upon a rock. It breaks upon a coast at the same moment that the shock reaches it, and sometimes it may cause an apparent slight recession from the shore, followed by its flowing up somewhat higher than the usual tide mark: this will happen where the beach is very sloping, as is usual where the sea is shallow, for then the velocity of the low flat earth-wave is such, that it slips as it were, from under the undulation in the fluid above. It does this at the moment of reaching the beach, which it elevates by a vertical height equal to its own, and as instantly lets drop again to its former level."
"While the shock propagated through the solid earth has thus travelled with extra rapidity to the land, the great sea-wave has been following at a slower pace, though advancing at the rate of several miles in a minute. It consists, in the deep ocean, of a long low swell of enormous volume, having an equal slope before and behind, and that so gentle that it might pass under a ship without being noticed. But when it reaches the edge of soundings, its front slope, like that of a tidal wave under similar circumstances, becomes short and steep, while its rear slope is long and gentle. If there be water of some depth close into shore, this great wave may roll in long after the shock, and do little damage; but if the shore be shelving, there will be first a retreat of the water, and then the wave will break upon the beach and roll in far upon the land."[690]
The various opinions which have been offered by Michell and later writers, respecting the remote causes of earthquake shocks in the interior of the earth, will more properly be discussed in the thirty-second chapter.