The town of Uddevalla (see Map, p. [523]) stands at the head of a narrow creek overhung by steep and barren rocks of gneiss, of which all the adjacent country is composed, except in the low grounds and bottoms of valleys, where strata of sand, clay, and marl frequently hide the fundamental rocks. To these newer and horizontal deposits the fossil shells above mentioned belong, and similar marine remains are found at various heights above the sea on the opposite island of Orust. The extreme distance from the sea to which such fossils extend is as yet unknown; but they have been already found at Trollhättan in digging the canal there, and still farther inland on the northern borders of Lake Wener, fifty miles from the sea, at an elevation of 200 feet near Lake Rogvarpen.
To pass to the Baltic: I observed near its shores at Södertelje, sixteen miles S. W. of Stockholm, strata of sand, clay, and marl, more than 100 feet high, and containing shells of species now inhabiting the Bothnian Gulf. These consist partly of marine and partly of freshwater species; but they are few in number, the brackishness of the water appearing to be very unfavorable to the development of testacea. The most abundant species are the common cockle and the common mussel and periwinkle of our shores (Cardium edule, Mytilus edulis, and Littorina littorea), together with a small tellina (T. Baltica) and a few minute univalves allied to Paludina ulva. These live in the same water as a Lymneus, a Neritina (N. fluviatilis), and some other freshwater shells.
But the marine mollusks of the Baltic above mentioned, although very numerous in individuals, are dwarfish in size, scarcely ever attaining a third of the average dimensions which they acquire in the salter waters of the ocean. By this character alone a geologist would generally be able to recognize an assemblage of Baltic fossils as distinguished from those derived from a deposit in the ocean. The absence also of oysters, barnacles, whelks, scallops, limpets (ostrea, balanus, buccinum, pecten, patella), and many other forms abounding alike in the sea near Uddevalla, and in the fossiliferous deposits of modern date on that coast, supplies an additional negative character of the greatest value, distinguishing assemblages of Baltic from those of oceanic shells. Now the strata containing Baltic shells are found in many localities near Stockholm, Upsala, and Gefle, and will probably be discovered everywhere around the borders of the Bothnian Gulf; for I have seen similar remains brought from Finland, in marl resembling that found near Stockholm. The utmost distance to which these deposits have yet been traced inland, is on the southern shores of Lake Maeler, at a place seventy miles from the sea.[737] Hence it appears from the distinct assemblage of fossil shells found on the eastern and western coasts of Sweden, that the Baltic has been for a long period separated as now from the ocean, although the intervening tract of land was once much narrower, even after both seas had become inhabited by all the existing species of testacea.
As no accurate observations on the rise of the Swedish coast refer to periods more remote than a century and a half from the present time, and as traditional information, and that derived from ancient buildings on the coast, do not enable the antiquary to trace back any monuments of change for more than five or six centuries, we cannot declare whether the rate of the upheaving force is uniform during very long periods. In those districts where the fossil shells are found at the height of more than 200 feet above the ocean, as at Uddevalla, Orust, and Lake Rogvarpen, the present rate of rise seems less than four feet in a century. Even at that rate it would have required five thousand years to lift up those deposits. But as the movement is now very different in different places, it may also have varied much in intensity at different eras.
We have, moreover, yet to learn not only whether the motion proceeds always at the same rate, but also whether it has been uniformly in one direction. The level of the land may oscillate; and for centuries there may be a depression, and afterwards a re-elevation, of the same district. Some phenomena in the neighborhood of Stockholm appear to me only explicable on the supposition of the alternate rising and sinking of the ground since the country was inhabited by man. In digging a canal, in 1819, at Södertelje, about sixteen miles to the south of Stockholm, to unite Lake Maeler with the Baltic, marine strata, containing fossil shells of Baltic species, were passed through. At a depth of about sixty feet, they came down upon what seems to have been a buried fishing-hut, constructed of wood in a state of decomposition, which soon crumbled away on exposure to the air. The lowest part, however, which had stood on a level with the sea, was in a more perfect state of preservation. On the floor of this hut was a rude fireplace, consisting of a ring of stones, and within this were cinders and charred wood. On the outside lay boughs of the fir, cut as with an axe, with the leaves or needles still attached. It seems very difficult to explain the position of this buried hut, without imagining, as in the case of the temple of Serapis (see p. [486]), first a subsidence to the depth of more than sixty feet, then a reelevation. During the period of submergence, the hut must have become covered over with gravel and shelly marl, under which not only the hut, but several vessels also were found, of a very antique form, and having their timbers fastened together by wooden pegs instead of nails.[738]
Whether any of the land in Norway is now rising, must be determined by future investigations. Marine fossil shells, of recent species, have been collected from inland places near Drontheim; but Mr. Everest, in his "Travels through Norway," informs us that the small island of Munkholm, which is an insulated rock in the harbor of Drontheim, affords conclusive evidence of the land having in that region remained stationary for the last eight centuries. The area of this isle does not exceed that of a small village, and by an official survey, its highest point has been determined to be twenty-three feet above the mean highwater mark, that is, the mean between neap and spring tides. Now, a monastery was founded there by Canute the Great, A. D. 1028, and thirty-three years before that time it was in use as a common place of execution. According to the assumed average rate of rise in Sweden (about forty inches in a century), we should be obliged to suppose that this island had been three feet eight inches below high-water mark when it was originally chosen as the site of the monastery.
Professor Keilhau of Christiania, after collecting the observations of his predecessors respecting former changes of level in Norway, and combining them with his own, has made the fact of a general change of level at a modern period, that is to say, within the period of the actual testaceous fauna, very evident. He infers that the whole country from Cape Lindesnæs to Cape North, and beyond that as far as the fortress of Vardhuus, has been gradually upraised, and on the southeast coast the elevation has amounted to more than 600 feet. The marks which denote the ancient coast-line are so nearly horizontal that the deviation from horizontality, although the measurements have been made at a great number of points, is too small to be appreciated.
More recently (1844), however, it appears from the researches of M. Bravais, member of the French scientific commission of the North, that in the Gulf of Alten in Finmark, the most northerly part of Norway, there are two distinct lines of upraised ancient sea-coast, one above the other, which are not parallel, and both of them imply that within a distance of fifty miles a considerable slope can be detected in such a direction as to show that the ancient shores have undergone a greater amount of upheaval in proportion as we advance inland.[739]
It has been already stated, that, in proceeding from the North Cape to Stockholm, the rate of upheaval diminishes from several feet to a few inches in a century. To the south of Stockholm, the upward movement ceases, and at length in Scania, or the southernmost part of Sweden, it appears to give place to a movement in an opposite direction. In proof of this fact, Professor Nilsson observes, in the first place, that there are no elevated beds of recent marine shells in Scania like those farther to the north. Secondly, Linnæus, with a view of ascertaining whether the waters of the Baltic were retiring from the Scanian shore, measured, in 1749, the distance between the sea and a large stone near Trelleborg. This same stone was, in 1836, a hundred feet nearer the water's edge than in Linnæus's time, or eighty-seven years before. Thirdly, there is also a submerged peat moss, consisting of land and freshwater plants, beneath the sea at a point to which no peat could have been drifted down by any river. Fourthly, and what is still more conclusive, it is found that in seaport towns, all along the coast of Scania, there are streets below the high-water level of the Baltic, and in some cases below the level of the lowest tide. Thus, when the wind is high at Malmo, the water overflows one of the present streets, and some years ago some excavations showed an ancient street in the same place eight feet lower, and it was then seen that there had been an artificial raising of the ground, doubtless in consequence of that subsidence. There is also a street at Trelleborg, and another at Skanör, a few inches below high-water mark, and a street at Ystad is exactly on a level with the sea, at which it could not have been originally built.
The inferences deduced from the foregoing facts are in perfect harmony with the proofs brought to light by two Danish investigators, Dr. Pingel and Captain Graah, of the sinking down of part of the west coast of Greenland, for a space of more than 600 miles from north to south. The observations of Captain Graah were made during a survey of Greenland in 1823-24; and afterwards in 1828-29; those by Dr. Pingel were made in 1830-32. It appears from various signs and traditions, that the coast has been subsiding for the last four centuries from the firth called Igaliko, in lat. 60° 43' N. to Disco Bay, extending to nearly the 69th degree of north latitude. Ancient buildings on low rocky islands and on the shore of the main land have been gradually submerged, and experience has taught the aboriginal Greenlander never to build his hut near the water's edge. In one case the Moravian settlers have been obliged more than once to move inland the poles upon which their large boats were set, and the old poles still remain beneath the water as silent witnesses of the change.[740]