Unfortunately Hudson’s own journal is lost. We have only the journal of one of the men named John Playse. It was no doubt copied from the Master’s log, but in such a way that it is not possible to make out the Hopewell’s track by it. After encountering some severe weather, she seems to have passed down the strait between the foreland and the mainland of Spitsbergen, doubled the southern point, and then shaped a northerly course until the 80th parallel was reached. On the 12th July, William Collins the mate saw the land, called Newland by the Hollanders, bearing S.S.W. 12 leagues distant, but Hudson continued to stand to the north. He found that a green-coloured sea was most free from ice and that an azure blue sea was an icy sea. At noon on the 14th the land was approached where there was a bay with very high and rugged mountains at the head of it, and high land at the entrance, with an island which received the name of Cape Collins after the mate. The bay was named Whale Bay. Here Colman and Collins with two other men landed, reporting many footprints of animals, deer-antlers, and much drift-wood. A cape to the north-west of Cape Collins received the name of Hakluyt’s Headland. Hudson again stood along the edge of the ice which closed in upon the land to the eastward. Eventually he came to the conclusion that there was no passage to the north on those meridians, and he resolved to steer southward. He thus discovered the whole western coast of Spitsbergen. He examined the inlet afterwards named Bell Sound, rounded the most southern point of the land, and traced the coast for some distance to the east of it.
This western coast of Spitsbergen, first made known by Henry Hudson, is well described by Scoresby. He tells us how its cliffs rise by steep acclivities from the very margin of the ocean to a stupendous height, the masses of purest snow contrasting with the protruding dark-coloured rocks. The valleys, opening towards the coast, terminate inland with a transverse line of ice-field showing an unbroken surface for many leagues in extent. On the southern part of the coast there are isolated mountains with conical or ridged summits, occasionally terminating in sharp peaks. Further north the mountains are more disposed in chains than in the south, with an inferior range running parallel with the shore, whence ridges project into the sea, and terminate in mural precipices.
Part of NORTH-WEST SPITSBERGEN
“There is indeed a kind of majesty not to be conveyed in words in the extraordinary accumulations of snow and ice in the valleys, and in the peaks rising above the ordinary elevation of the clouds and terminating in crests of everlasting snow. Approaching the shore under shelter of the impenetrable density of a summer fog, sometimes the mist disperses like the drawing of a curtain, when the strong contrast of light and shade, heightened by a cloudless atmosphere and powerful sun, bursts on the senses in a brilliant exhibition resembling the production of magic.”
But these beautiful scenes were not the only attraction. Around them they noted the vast flocks of birds, the numerous seals and walrus, and the great abundance of whales. Hudson had discovered a source of wealth which served to enrich two countries in the ensuing centuries.
In the end of July, Hudson decided on bearing up for his return to England. He passed Cherry or Bear Island on the 1st August, and a few days afterwards another important discovery was made. A lofty peak was seen, rising out of the sea to a height of 5836 feet. It is on an island about 30 miles long by 10 broad, in 71° N., and is now known to be the lofty termination of a submarine volcanic range running out N.E. from Iceland. Hudson gave the island the name of Hudson’s Touches[73]. The north-eastern cape was named Young’s Foreland, doubtless because the peak was first sighted by that sharp-eyed look-out man James Young; and another cape, almost exactly in 71° N., was named Point Hudson. This island has since, without any justification, been called Jan Mayen.
After leaving Hudson’s Touches the little Hopewell put into the Faroes on the 15th August, and on the same day in September she arrived in the Thames. It is not recorded whether Hudson again took his crew to St Ethelburga’s church to offer up a thanksgiving, but it is more than probable. Thus ended this memorable voyage.
Hudson had tried the route recommended by Master Robert Thorne and had found it to be impracticable, but his employers were willing to send forth another expedition under his command. He therefore decided to try the north-east plan, conceiving that if he could once either get round the north end of Novaya Zemlya, or through Burrough or Pet Straits, and round Cape Tabin, which is shown on the old charts as the northern point of Asia, the rest of the voyage to China would offer no difficulties. This, then, was his plan for a second voyage. He had a third way in his mind, for the Dutch on their latest charts had shown Kostin Shar as a strait through Novaya Zemlya.
The little Hopewell was again fitted out and sailed on the 22nd April, 1608, with a crew of 14 in all, including Hudson’s little son[74]. On the 3rd June the North Cape was sighted and on the 12th, in 75° 30′ N., the ice was encountered, and the ship’s head was turned to the east. Having examined the edge of the ice for a long distance the Hopewell was in sight of the Novaya Zemlya coast in 72° 25′ N., on the 26th July, at the place called Swarte Klip by the Dutch. Juet and Cooke, the mate and the boatswain, went on shore with two men, and reported having seen antlers and traces of deer, many streams of water, and long grass. In the evening Stacey the carpenter and Ladley the other mate landed and saw much driftwood and a great number of birds. They brought some moss and wild flowers on board. Many walrus were seen in 71° 15′, but none were killed.