AT intervals of ten to twenty years the best-known volcano in the world—Vesuvius, on the Bay of Naples—has in the last two centuries burst into eruption, and the probability of the recurrence of this violent state of activity, at no distant date, render some account of my own acquaintance with that great and wonderful thing seasonable. We inhabitants of the West of Europe have little personal experience of earthquakes, and still less of volcanoes, for there is not in the British Islands even an "extinct" volcanic cone to remind us of the terrible forces held down beneath our feet by the crust of the earth. In regions as near as the Auvergne of Central France and the Eiffel, close to the junction of the Moselle with the Rhine, there are complete volcanic craters whose fiery origin is recognized even by the local peasantry. They are, however, regarded by these optimist folk as the products of ancient fires long since burnt out. The natives have as little apprehension of a renewed activity of their volcanoes as we have of the outburst of molten lava and devastating clouds of ashes and poisonous vapour from the top of Primrose Hill. Nevertheless, the hot springs and gas issuing from fissures in the Auvergne show that the subterranean fires are not yet closed down, and may at any day burst again into violent activity.

Such also was the happy indifference with which from time immemorial the Greek colonists and other earlier and later inhabitants of the rich and beautiful shores of the Neapolitan bay before the fateful year A.D. 79, had regarded the low crater-topped mountain called Vesuvius or Vesbius, as well as the great circular forest-grown or lake-holding cups near Cumæ and the Cape Misenum, at the northern end of the bay—known to-day as the Solfatara, Astroni, Monti Grillo, Barbaro, and Cigliano—and the lakes Lucrino, Averno, and Agnano. These together with the Monte Nuovo—which suddenly rose from the sea near Baiæ in 1538 and as suddenly disappeared—constitute "the Phlegræan fields." Vesuvius was loftier than any one of the Phlegræan craters, and the gentle slope by which it rose from the sea level to a height of nearly 3700 ft. had, as now, a circumference of ten miles. It did not terminate in a "cone," as in later ages, but in a depressed, circular, forest-covered area measuring a mile across, which was the ancient crater. A drawing showing the shape of the mountain at this period is the work of the late Prof. Phillips of Oxford (Fig. 30). The soil formed around and upon the ancient lava-streams of Vesuvius appears to have been always especially fertile, so that flourishing towns and villages occupied its slopes, and the ports of Herculaneum, Pompeii, and Stabiæ were the seats of a busy and long-established population. The existence of active volcanoes at no great distance from Vesuvius was, however, well known to the ancient Greeks and Romans. The great Sicilian mountain, Etna—more than 10,000 ft. in height, rising from a base of ninety miles in circumference—and the Lipari Islands, such as Stromboli and Volcano, were for many centuries in intermittent activity before the first recorded eruption of Vesuvius—that of A.D. 79—and great eruptions are recorded as having occurred in the mountain mass of the island of Ischia, close to the Bay of Naples, in the fifth, third, and first centuries B.C.

Fig. 30.—Vesuvius as it appeared before the eruption of August 24, A.D. 79. From a sketch by Prof. Phillips, F.R.S.

Nevertheless, the outburst of Vesuvius in A.D. 79 and its re-entrance into a state of activity came upon the unfortunate population around it as an absolutely unexpected thing. At least a thousand years—probably several thousand years—had passed since Vesuvius had become "extinct." All tradition of its prehistoric activity had disappeared, though the learned Greek traveller Strabo had pointed out the indications it presented of having been once a seat of consuming fire. From A.D. 63 there were during sixteen years frequent earthquakes in its neighbourhood, which, as we know by records and inscriptions, caused serious damage to the towns around it, and then suddenly, on the night of Aug. 24, A.D. 79, vast explosions burst from its summit. A huge black cloud of fine dust and cinders, lasting for three days, spread from it for twenty miles around, streams of boiling mud poured down its sides, and in a few hours covered the city of Herculaneum, whilst a dense shower of hot volcanic dust completely buried the gay little seaside resort known as Pompeii. Many thousand persons perished, choked by the vapours or overwhelmed by the hot cinders or engulfed in the boiling mud.

The great naturalist Pliny was in command of the fleet at Cape Misenum, and went by ship across the bay to render assistance to the inhabitants of the towns at the foot of Vesuvius. Pliny's nephew wrote two letters to the historian Tacitus, giving an account of these events and of the remarkable courage and coolness of his uncle, who, after sleeping the night at Stabiæ, was suffocated by the sulphurous vapours as he advanced into the open country near the volcano. The friends who were with him left him to his fate and made their escape. The younger Pliny had prudently remained, out of danger, with his mother at Misenum.

The alternating periods of activity and of rest exhibited by volcanoes seem to us capricious, and even at the present day are not sufficiently well understood to enable us to discern any order or regularity in their succession. Vesuvius is a thousand centuries old, and we have only known it for thirty. We cannot expect to get the time-table of its activities on so brief an acquaintance. Strangely enough, Vesuvius, having, after immemorial silence, spasmodically burst into eruption and spread devastation around it, resumed its slumber for many years. There is no mention of its activity for 130 years after A.D. 79. Then it growled and sent forth steam and cinder-dust to an extent sufficient to attract attention again; its efforts were thereafter recorded once or so in a century, though little, if any, harm was done by it. In A.D. 1139 there was a great throwing-up of dust and stones, with steam, which reflected the light of molten lava within the crater, and looked like flames. And then for close on 500 years there was little, if any, sign of activity. The "eruptions" between that of A.D. 79 and that of A.D. 1139 had been ejections of steam and cinders, unaccompanied by any flow or stream of lava. Then suddenly the whole business shut up for 500 years, and after that—also quite suddenly—in 1631, a really big eruption took place, exceeding in volume the catastrophe of Pliny's date. Not only were columns of dust and vapour ejected to a height of many miles, but several streams of white-hot lava overflowed the edge of the crater and reached the seacoast, destroying towns and villages on the way. Some of these lava-streams were five miles broad, and can be studied at the present day. As many as 18,000 persons were killed.

There were three more eruptions in the seventeenth century, and from that date there set in a period of far more frequent outbursts, which have continued to our own times. In the eighteenth century there were twenty-three distinct eruptions, lasting each from a few hours to two or three days, and of varying degrees of violence—a vast steam-jet forcing up cinders and stones from the crater into the air, usually accompanied by the outflow of lava, from cracks in sides of the crater, in greater or less quantity. In the nineteenth century there were twenty-five distinct eruptions, the most formidable of which were those of 1822, 1834, and 1872. All of the eruptions of Vesuvius in the last 280 years have been carefully described, and most of them recorded in coloured pictures (a favourite industry of the Neapolitans), showing the appearance of the active volcano both by day and night and its change of shape in successive years. Sir William Hamilton, the British Ambassador at the Court of Naples at the end of the eighteenth century (of whose great folio volumes I am the fortunate possessor), largely occupied himself in the study and description of Vesuvius, and published illustrations of the kind mentioned above, showing the appearance of the mountain at various epochs. Since his day there has been no lack of descriptions of every succeeding eruption, and now we have the records of photography.

The crater or basin formed by a volcano starts with the opening of a fissure in the earth's surface communicating by a pipe-like passage with very deeply-seated molten matter and steam. Whether the molten matter thus naturally "tapped" is only a local, though vast, accumulation, or is universally distributed at a given depth below the earth's crust, and at how many miles from the surface, is not known. It seems to be certain that the great pressure of the crust of the earth (from five to twenty-five miles thick) must prevent the heated matter below it from becoming either liquid or gaseous, whether the heat of that mass be due to the cracking of the earth's crust and the friction of the moving surfaces as the crust cools and shrinks, or is to be accounted for by the original high temperature of the entire mass of the terrestrial globe. It is only when the gigantic pressure is relieved by the cracking or fissuring of the closed case called "the crust of the earth" that the enclosed deep-lying matter of immensely high temperature liquefies, or even vaporizes, and rushes into the up-leading fissure. Steam and gas thus "set free" drive everything before them, carrying solid masses along with them, tearing, rending, shaking "the foundations of the hills," and issuing in terrific jets from the earth's surface, as through a safety valve, into the astonished world above. Often in a few hours they choke their own path by the destruction they produce and the falling in of the walls of their briefly-opened channels. Then there is a lull of hours, days, or even centuries, and after that again, a movement of the crust, a "giving" of the blockage of the deep, vertical pipe, and a renewed rush and jet of expanding gas and liquefying rock.