[6] The letter A in Baffin Bay (fig. 1) indicates the spot where Franklin was last seen. In fig. 2, B is the winter rendezvous at Beechey Island; C the greatest northing of the expedition, viz. 77° N. lat.; Z the final beset of the 'Erebus' and 'Terror;' the extreme north and south points of their voyage being represented by two small ships.
[7] In 1850.
[8] See a most heart-stirring sketch of the last voyage of Sir John Franklin, by Captain Sherard Osborn, in the periodical Once a Week, of the 22d and 29th October and 5th November last. Possessing a thorough acquaintance with the Arctic regions, the distinguished seaman has shown more than his ordinary power of description, in placing before the public his conception of what may have been the chief occurrences in the voyage of the 'Erebus' and 'Terror,' and the last days of Franklin, as founded upon an acquaintance with the character of the chief and his associates, and the record and relics obtained by M'Clintock. This sketch is prefaced by a spirited and graceful outline of all previous geographical discoveries, from the day when they were originated by the father of all modern Arctic enterprise, Sir John Barrow, to whom, and to many other eminent persons, from Sir Edward Parry downwards, I have in various Geographical Addresses offered the tribute of my admiration.
[9] In his volume before cited, p. xii., Mr. John Brown gave strong reasons (which he had held for some time) for believing in the existence of the very channel which now bears the name of M'Clintock. It is, however, the opinion both of that officer and his associates, as also of Captain Sherard Osborn, that Franklin could not have reached the spot where his ships were beset by proceeding down that ice-choked channel, but that he must have sailed down Peel Sound.
[10] Much of this Appendix will be prepared by Dr. David Walker.
[11] At the Aberdeen meeting the Prince Consort thus spoke:—"The Aberdeen whaler braves the icy regions of the Polar sea to seek and to battle with the great monster of the deep; he has materially assisted in opening these ice-bound regions to the researches of science; he fearlessly aided in the search after Sir John Franklin and his gallant companions whom their country sent forth on this mission; but to whom Providence, alas! has denied the reward of their labors, the return to their homes, to the affectionate embrace of their families and friends, and the acknowledgments of a grateful nation."
CONTENTS.
| CHAPTER I. | |
| Cause of delay in equipment—Fittings of the 'Fox'—Volunteers forArctic service—Assistance from public departments—Reflectionsupon the undertaking—Instructions and departure—Orkneys andGreenland—Fine Arctic scenery—Danish establishments in Greenland—Frederickshaab,in Davis' Straits, | Page [1] |
| CHAPTER II. | |
| Fiskernaes and Esquimaux—The 'Fox' reaches Disco—Disco Fiord—Summerscenery—Waigat Strait—Coaling from the mine—PurchasingEsquimaux dogs—Heavy gale off Upernivik—Melville Bay—Themiddle ice—The great glacier of Greenland—Reindeercross the glacier, | [19] |
| CHAPTER III. | |
| Melville Bay—Beset in Melville Bay—Signs of winter—The comingstorm—Drifting in the pack—Canine appetite—Resigned to a winterin the pack—Dinner stolen by sharks—The Arctic shark—Whitewhales and killers, | [35] |
| CHAPTER IV. | |
| Snow crystals—Dog will not eat raven—An Arctic school—The dogsinvade us—Bear-hunting by night—Ice-artillery—Arctic palates—Suddenrise of temperature—Harvey's idea of a sortie, | [51] |
| CHAPTER V. | |
| Burial in the pack—Musk oxen in lat. 80° north—Thrift of the Arcticfox—The aurora affects the electrometer—An Arctic Christmas—Sufferingsof an Arctic party—Ice acted on by wind only—Howthe sun ought to be welcomed—Constant action of the ice—Returnof the seals—Revolving storm, | [67] |
| CHAPTER VI. | |
| A bear-fight—An ice-nip—Strong gales, rapid drift—The 'Fox'breaks out of the pack—Hanging on to floe-edge—The Arctic bear—Anice tournament—The 'Fox' in peril—A storm in the pack—Escapefrom the pack, | [84] |
| CHAPTER VII. | |
| A holiday in Greenland—A lady blue with cold—The loves of Greenlanders—Closeshaving—Meet the whalers—Information of whalers—Disco—Danishhospitality—Sail from Disco—Kindness ofthe whalers—Danish establishments in Greenland, | [100] |
| CHAPTER VII. | |
| 'Fox' nearly wrecked—Afloat, and push ahead—Arctic hairbreadthescapes—Nearly caught in the pack—Shooting little auks—TheArctic Highlanders—Cape York—Crimson snow—Struggling tothe westward—Reach the West-land—Off the entrance of LancasterSound, | [116] |
| CHAPTER IX. | |
| Off Cape Warrender—Sight the whalers again—Enter Pond's Bay—Communicatewith Esquimaux—Ascend Pond's Inlet—Esquimauxinformation—Arctic summer abode—An Arctic village—No intelligenceof Franklin's ships—Arctic trading—Geographical informationof natives—Information of Rae's visit—Improvidence ofEsquimaux—Travels of Esquimaux, | [132] |
| CHAPTER X. | |
| Leave Pond's Bay—A gale in Lancaster Sound—The Beechey IslandDepôt—An Arctic monument—Reflections at Beechey Island—Proceedup Barrow's Strait—Peel Sound—Port Leopold—Prince Regent'sInlet—Bellot Strait—Flood-tide from the west—Unsuccessful efforts—Fox'sHole—No water to the west—Precautionary measures—Fourthattempt to pass through, | [153] |
| CHAPTER XI. | |
| Proceed westward in a boat—Cheerless state of the western sea—Strugglesin Bellot Strait—Falcons, good Arctic fare—The resources ofBoothia Felix—Future sledge travelling—Heavy gales—Hobson'sparty start—Winter quarters—Bellot Strait—Advanced depôtestablished—Observatories—Intense cold—Autumn travellers—Narrowescape, | [174] |
| CHAPTER XII. | |
| Death of our engineer—Scarcity of game—The cold unusually trying—Jolly,under adverse circumstances—Petersen's information—Returnof the sun of 1859—Early spring sledge-parties—Unusual severity ofthe winter—Severe hardships of early sledging—The western shoresof Boothia—Meet the Esquimaux—Intelligence of Franklin's ships—Returnto the 'Fox'—Allen Young returns, | [192] |
| CHAPTER XIII. | |
| Dr. Walker's sledge journey—Snow-blindness attacks Young's party—Departureof all sledge-parties—Equipment of sledge-parties—Meetthe same party of natives—Intelligence of the second ship—My depôtrobbed—Part company from Hobson—Matty Island—Desertedsnow-huts—Native sledges—Land on King William's Land, | [217] |
| CHAPTER XIV. | |
| Meet Esquimaux—News of Franklin's people—Frighten a solitaryparty—Reach the Great Fish River—On Montreal Island—Total absenceof all relics—Examine Ogle Peninsula—Discover a skeleton—Vaguenessof Esquimaux information—Cape Herschel—Cairn, | [235] |
| CHAPTER XV. | |
| The cairn found empty—Discover Hobson's letter—Discovery of Crozier'srecord—The deserted boat—Articles discovered about the boat—Theskeletons and relics—The boat belonged to the 'Erebus'—Conjectures, | [253] |
| CHAPTER XVI. | |
| Errors in Franklin's records—Relics found at the cairn—Reflections onthe retreat—Returning homeward—Geological remarks—Difficultiesof summer sledging—Arrive on board the 'Fox'—NavigableN.W. passage—Death from scurvy—Anxiety for Captain Young—Youngreturns safely, | [272] |
| CHAPTER XVII. | |
| Signs of release—Dearth of animal life—Owl is good beef—Beat outof winter quarters—Our game-list—Reach Fury Beach—Escape fromRegent's Inlet—In Baffin's Bay—Captain Allen Young's journey—Disco;sad disappointment—Part from our Esquimaux friends—Adieuto Greenland—Arrive home, | [292] |
| Conclusion, | [315] |
| APPENDIX. | |
| No. I.—A Letter to Viscount Palmerston, K.G., &c., from LadyFranklin, | [319] |
| No. II.—Memorial to the Right Hon. Viscount Palmerston, M.P.,G.C.B., | [329] |
| No. III.—List of Relics of the Franklin Expedition brought toEngland in the 'Fox' by Captain M'Clintock, | [334] |
| No. IV.—Geological Account of the Arctic Archipelago, by ProfessorHaughton, | [341] |
| No. V.—List of Subscribers to the 'Fox' Expedition, | [373] |