“L’UNION FAIT LA FORCE.”—MOTTO OF BELGIUM.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. II.

LONDON:
RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,
Publisher in Ordinary to Her Majesty.
1841.

LONDON:
PRINTED BY SCHULZE AND CO., 13, POLAND STREET.

CONTENTS
OF THE
SECOND VOLUME.

CHAPTER I.
The Palaces of Brussels—Palace of the Prince of Orange—Embarrassmentof the government respecting it—Descriptionof the interior—Chambers of the Belgianlegislature—Palais de la Nation—Constitution ofBelgium—Variable franchise—Removal of the pictureof Waterloo—The Park—Singular scenes ofthe revolution—Curious account of the adventuresof an English party at the Hôtel de Bellevue duringthe riots at Brussels—Works of the Société du Renardat Brussels—The road to Antwerp—Villas—Oldchâteaux—House of Rubens and Teniers—The villageof Vieux Dieux—Appearance of the country—Thetower of the cathedral—Fortifications—Narrowstreets—Palace of Napoleon—The houses—Historyof Antwerp—Festival of the ladies’ eve—Immensecommerce in the sixteenth century—Closingof the Scheldt in 1648—Projects of Napoleonfor Antwerp—Arsenal and locks—Trade from 1815to 1830—Affected by the revolution—Transit tradeof Belgium—Absurd system of competition withHolland—Rubens—Fêtes in his honour—Modernpainters—Verboeckhoven—The Museum—Rubens’ genius—TheCrucifixion—The adoration of the Magi—Vandyke—Thecathedral—View from the tower—Crucifixmade from the statue of Alva—Monumentof Quentin Metsys—Interior of the church—Rubens’Descent from the Cross—The tomb of Rubens in the Churchof St. Jacques—Church of St. Paul—TheCalvary and Purgatory—Aspect of a Roman Catholicplace of worship—A lady of Antwerp atvespers—St. Andrews’ Church—Superb pulpit—Monumentto Mary Queen of Scotland—Dinner withM. David—Want of carpets in continental houses—TheCitadel—Extraordinary scene—GeneralChassé—The patriot army—The singular historyof its three commanders—The bombardment—Placesat the theatre to see the siege. [1]
CHAPTER II.
Quays of Antwerp—Peculiar mode of training youngtrees—The Scheldt—The flying bridge of Napoleon—Storyof Van Speyk—Polder at the Tête deFlandres—Its catastrophe in 1837—Zwyndrecht—Differentprofessions of the Belgian saints—Story ofthe curate of St. Joachim—Beveren—St. Nicholas—Densepopulation—A market—Flemish ballad-singers—Ancientdrama of Flanders—Tamise—Ruinouscondition of the cotton trade inBelgium since the revolution—Its causes—Inability ofthe government to afford relief—Diminution of exportssince 1833—Remarkable petition of the tradeto the legislature—Remedies suggested by them—Impracticabilityof any commercial union with France—Orthe Zoll-Verein—Dendermonde—Siege by theDuke of Marlborough—Description of its presentstate—Its manufactures—Mechlin—Curious oldcity—The Archbishop Sterckx—A political prelate—Mechlinlace—Flax—The Cathedral of St. Romoald—Thetower—Carillon—Immense bells—The corporationof Mechlin—The tomb of the Bertholdi—VanEyck’s paintings—Vandyke’s Crucifixion—Superiorityof Rubens in composition—Church of Notre-Dame—“Themiraculous draught of fishes”—Favouritepaintings of Rubens in the Church of St. John—Hôtelde St. Jaques. [80]
CHAPTER III.
Scenery around Louvain—The Belgian railroad system—Peculiaradaptation of the country—Policy of Governmentinterference in their construction—The averagecost per mile—Causes of the difference in outlaybetween Belgium and England—Cheap rates oftravelling in Belgium—Accidents—Success not yetdecided—Louvain—Its extent—THE UNIVERSITYOF LOUVAIN—Its former fame—Its present condition—Thebierre de Louvain—The great brewery—Itsprocesses—Amazing consumption of beer in Belgium—Itsdifferent characters—The Hôtel de Ville—Itspictures—Gallery of M. Vanderschreick—Thecollegiate church of St. Pierre—Legend of Saint Margaretof Louvain—Tomb of Justus Lipsius—Flightof the “braves Belges” at Louvain in 1832—Singularchange in the character of the people for courage—Thepresent soldiery—Terveuren—The park andpalace of the Prince of Orange—The Forest of Soigné—WATERLOO—TheBelgic Lion—Its injury to thefield—Irish anecdote—Bravery of the Irish troopsat Waterloo—Hougemont—The orchard—Relics ofthe fight—The Duke of Wellington’s estate—Nomonument to him on the field—The Duke of Marlborough—LaBelle Alliance—Quatre Bras—Thewoods cut down—Beautiful scenery of the Meuseand the Sambre—Namur—My Uncle Toby—Thecitadel—Don John of Austria—The cathedral—Thechurch of St. Loup—The trade in cutlery—THEDESCENT OF THE MEUSE—Its beauty and its wealth—Andennes—Historyof Mr. Cockerill—His influenceon the manufactures of Belgium—His print-worksat Andennes—Ruined by the revolution—Themanufacture of paper in Belgium—Huy. [117]
CHAPTER IV.
Huy—The citadel—Churches—The mineral and coaldistricts of Belgium—Prosperity of coal mines—Quantityproduced in Belgium compared with othercountries—Its price at Ghent, Brussels, and Antwerp—Panicin 1836 for the exhaustion of coal in Belgium—Sceneryof the Meuse—Remarkable individualsborn in its vicinity—Chateaux of Aigrement andChokier—Seraing—Immense extent of the works—Itsproduce within its own walls—History of theestablishment—Palace of the Prince Bishops of Liege—Encouragedby the King of Holland—The building—Hugesteam engine—Surprising extent of theoperations carried on—Iron works—Halls for constructionof machines—Vast numbers of workmenemployed—Its exports—Mr. John Cockerill—Extentof his speculations—Development of Seraing attributableto them—Its future prospects—Policy ofEngland in regard to the export of machinery—Importationof machinery into Belgium—Road to Liege—Liege—No sympathy with its history—Turbulentand unamiable character of its ancient populace—PrinceBishop declares war upon France—Share ofthe Liegois in the revolution of 1830—Her threatenedattack upon Seraing—The town—Manufacture offire-arms and cannon—A flax mill—Its churches poor—ThePalais de Justice—University—Scenery of theVesdre—The railroad—Chaud-fontaine—Spa—Deserted—Verviers—Thetown—Conduct during therevolution—The woollen trade of Belgium—Want ofnative wool—Extent and decline of the trade—Itscauses—Statement of M. Briavionne—Joint StockCompanies in Belgium—Account of two at Verviers—Themania for speculation—Its failure—The Prussianfrontier—Limbourg—Prospects of Belgium—Herbad condition—Policy of the King of Holland—Thatof the present government—Present aspectof their trade—Impossibility of competing with England—Characterof the Belgian mechanics—Ruinouseffects of the “Repeal of the Union.” [166]
CHAPTER V.
Change in the aspect of the country in crossing thefrontier from Belgium into Prussia—Passports, noreal inconvenience—Anecdote of a Jamaica planter—Firstview of Aix-la-Chapelle—Its populationand employments—Insurrection of the Patriots in1830—Its absurd termination—The Cathedral ofCharlemagne—Its architecture—Donation of MaryQueen of Scots—The Tomb of Charlemagne—Hissingular mode of interment—The relics inthe Treasury—The Redoute—Gaming discountenacedin Prussia—The Hôtel de Ville—Statueand fountain of Charlemagne—Environs of Aixagreeable—Political condition of the Trans-Rhenanprovince of Prussia—Excellent posting arrangements—Improvementsuggested in England—Aspect ofthe country to Juliers—Juliers—Neuss—Trade incrushing oil might be advantageously introduced inIreland—The church of St. Quirinus—The Rhine. [219]

INDEX

TO SUBJECTS CONNECTED WITH THE
TRADE AND MANUFACTURES OF BELGIUM.