Continuing our route, we crossed the river Arga, and entered the town of Villalba: our baggage at last came up, and the Casa in which we were quartered was enclosed by a good garden, well stocked with vegetables, which was considered a piece of good fortune in those times. This day, the 25th, General Graham overtook General Foy, retiring from the vicinity of Bilboa, who, on hearing of the unhappy extent of the French disasters at Vittoria, made an effort to block up the passage through Tolosa, but the victorious English broke through all obstacles, and continued to advance. In a few days the small garrison of Los Passages surrendered themselves prisoners. Thus it was that the left wing of the army had hardly halted since issuing from the bowels of Portugal, until the precipitous bank of the river Bidassoa (which divided France and Spain), put a stop for a time to its memorable march and victorious career.
On the 26th we had an idea that we should halt, but during the day we were again under arms, (marching by an excellent road running S.S.E., leading direct on Tafalla,) accompanied by the third and fourth divisions, with a proportion of cavalry and artillery, to endeavour to cut off General Clausel's corps, which had approached Vittoria the day after the battle; but he also, being made acquainted with the total route of El Rey Joseph, immediately countermarched on Logroño, and thence to Tudella.[52] During the movements of the right and left wings of the British army, General Hill, with the centre, showed front, and masked Pampeluna.
The weather now cleared up, but continued variable during the whole summer; the seasons here being totally different from the dry and scorching heats in the more southern provinces, where the sun-burnt mountains and vast plains, are covered, at this time of the year, with a parched vegetation, or the remains of many cindered forests.
Continuing our movement, we became once again extricated from the mountainous regions, which had every where enclosed us for more than a fortnight. The country was now open, and highly cultivated, with groups of bold peasantry lining each side of the way, and greeting us by crying Vivan los Coluros, y viva el Réy Fernándo séptimo; and, while moving in the direction of Tudella, our enthusiastic hopes were raised to the highest pitch, at the probability of reaching the venerable and renowned city of Saragossa; but our line was all at once changed, and by a forced march we entered the province of Aragon, passing through a barbarous-looking country, barely peopled, (the forlorn pueblos lying wide asunder, the poor dwellings being mostly constructed of dried mud, and plastered over with the same substance;) and at the expiration of five days we reached Sanguessa, and encamped.
Here we halted one day,[53] and, while promenading the town in the evening, the soft notes of music floated in the air, and on a nearer approach to the place whence the sounds issued, we were agreeably saluted by the scraping and cheerful notes of violins. A crowd of Spaniards had assembled round the door of the Casa, and on being questioned by another officer and myself whether the ball was public, "Oh si señores," answered they, "es muy público:" so, bustling up the stone steps, and feeling our way along a dark passage, we found ourselves, on opening a massive door, amongst many señoritas, with a scarcity of caballeros. A staff-officer, who was the promoter of the dance, expressed his gladness at so opportune an arrival. Although a friend, we apologised to him for the apparent intrusion; but he was a man of no ceremony, and declared it to be a lucky mistake; which turned out to be the case, for we beat good waltz time during the whole night, to the great satisfaction of the señoritas.
On reaching the camp the following morning, the tents were already struck, and the troops moving off on their return to Pampeluna. What with the overpowering rays of the sun, the rising clouds of dust, and our overnight's exertion, we were so overcome, that had it not been for the kindly arms of the soldiers, we should have dropped from off our horses, while fast asleep, dreaming of black-eyed señoras, waltzing, and precipices!
In two days we reached Pampeluna by a more direct road, but the men began to flag, owing to irregular and poor feeding; besides which, we had been marching for thirty-two days, with only two regular halts, since quitting our camp between Toro and Salamanca; therefore, those plagued and suffering from sore feet were under the painful necessity (unless totally unable to proceed), of going on until they got well again. I have often seen the blood soaking through the gaiters, and over the heels of the soldiers' hard shoes, whitened with the dust.