Autobiography of Sir John Rennie, F.R.S., Past President of the Institute of Civil Engineers / Comprising the history of his professional life, together with reminiscences dating from the commencement of the century to the present time.

by Sir John Rennie

Upon leaving the west end of the lake we ascended the hill over a rugged path, passing through a wild, bare district, and from the summit enjoyed a fine view of nearly the whole of the island, which was very beautiful whichever way you looked. We now descended a very steep path, the view changing at every turn. At last, about five o’clock, we reached the clean, pretty town of Villa Franca, where I halted nearly an hour for refreshment.

Villa Franca, which is situated in a small bay on the sea-shore, was formerly the capital of the island, but an earthquake having occurred near, it was abandoned for Delgada. It is still a thriving little place, with a rich surrounding country. There is a small island, a few hundred yards from the shore, where a good harbour might be made.

After leaving this town we had to take a rough road along the sea-coast for a couple of miles, partly through deep sand, and partly among scattered rocks, for there was no regular road. We then left the shore and travelled over the cliffs by an equally bad path, sometimes over deep chasms and sometimes up narrow glens, until we reached the high road again, at which I was very glad, as it was now dark and very difficult to find our way. We pushed forward with confidence, and the donkeys went on very well; after passing through numerous villages, sometimes lying on the sea-shore, at others a little distance inland, at last, much to my satisfaction—for I was very tired—we reached Mr. Rodrigue’s comfortable hotel about midnight. Old Rodrigue was surprised that I had made the journey of between 50 and 60 miles in so short a time, for although it was the month of September, the sun was very powerful, and the road for many miles was very bad.

Next day we had another meeting of the Junta, and they made all the arrangements for laying the first stone of the new harbour, which was to take place with every possible ceremony. I found that Mr. Plews had got a couple of large stones well dressed for the purpose; the captain of the port had provided the sheers and tackle for hoisting them; and the Junta had procured in the town a very pretty silver trowel, a mallet, and mortar holder. A commodious gangway had been prepared from the shore to the west end of the old mole, fronting the area where the new pier or mole was to commence, according to the plan approved of by the Government.

The whole town was in motion at an early hour, and great numbers of people came in from the neighbouring towns and villages, all dressed in holiday costume. The town was decorated with the flags of various nations, amongst which the Union Jack was particularly conspicuous. In fact, it was considered a great national fête; the more so, as a work such as this was intended to be had never been previously undertaken in this island, or in the kingdom of Portugal itself. The procession was marshalled at the Town Hall, and consisted of the band of the militia of the island; then the governor, his secretary, and the Junta or committee that was to conduct the work, followed by the principal officers, merchants, and deputations from the chief towns in the island, with their respective banners, closed by a number of the most respectable inhabitants of the place; the lower orders, clad in their best, lining the way by which we passed. Upon arriving at the place we were met by the chief priest of the island, who, in a short prayer, invoked a blessing from the Almighty that the enterprise might prosper. Then, upon a signal being given, coins of the realm, together with a printed paper, containing an account of the proposed work, the names of the governor and Junta, the engineers, officers, &c., were placed in a glass bottle, and deposited in the cavity of the lower stone, which had previously been prepared and set. The governor having placed the glass case in the cavity, I handed to him the silver trowel, with which he spread out the mortar. The stone was lowered into its place, and the governor, having previously adjusted it, gave the usual three taps with the mallet, and the ceremony was finished with a discharge of guns from the fort, and numerous showers of rockets from the town, amidst the cheers and vivas of the bystanders, the band playing the national anthem. In the evening a very handsome entertainment was given at M. José de Conté’s villa, on the outside of the town, to which the Junta and principal officers and merchants of the place were invited. The Portuguese band played admirably during and after dinner, and we all retired much pleased with the success of the day’s proceedings. The governor presented me with the silver trowel, which I respectfully declined, and requested him to keep it as a memorial of the happy day; which he, after some hesitation, accepted, and I contented myself with the polished mortar holder, and the next leading man of the Junta accepted the mallet.

The next day I made final arrangements for my departure by the packet, which was expected on its return from Fayal the day after. In the mean time I had been considering the danger of the harbour as laid down or rather approved by the Government, and found that if the west mole was commenced at the east end of Fort San Bray, as proposed, the fort would be exposed to a much heavier swell; but that by making it commence at the western end of the fort this would be avoided; moreover, the sum of 600l. would be saved, and the harbour would be made so much larger. This recommendation was afterwards adopted by the Government. I now took my leave of the governor and all the authorities, and my other friends, with my grateful thanks for their kindness and attention.

The island, taken in a direct line from north to south, is about 40 miles long, and from 7 to 9 miles wide. It is entirely volcanic. The east and west ends exhibit the most powerful effects of the volcanic force. In the former we see mountains raised to the height of about 3300 feet above the level of the Atlantic, in the centre of which lies the valley of Furness, the bottom being occupied by a lake that still sends forth sulphurous vapours; and in the latter or west end we find mountains of about 3000 feet, the centre of which is occupied by a large lake, without any exhibition of existing volcanic action. Near the centre of the island, which is the narrowest part, there are numerous minor conical-shaped hills of less elevation, but all more or less showing their volcanic origin. The island enjoys a most genial climate, and frost or snow is of rare occurrence; but during the autumn and winter it is visited by heavy gales from all quarters of the compass, which extend over a distance of about 100 miles. During this period a great deal of rain falls, and the climate may be said to be moist, much resembling that of Madeira. Formerly a good deal of wine was produced here, but since 1855, when the oidium disease made its appearance, the vintage has been very unsatisfactory; and although a certain quantity of wine, resembling that of Madeira, is still made for home consumption, none is exported. The principal productions of the island now are oranges and lemons, of which vast quantities are annually exported to the north of Europe. The district where these are produced is restricted to the centre of the island, commencing at Ponta Delgada, and extending eastward about 7 or 8 miles. On the north it is bounded by the central ridge of hills, and on the south by the sea, the width being about 3 or 4 miles, so that it enjoys the full rays of the southern sun. These orange and lemon orchards are cultivated with the greatest care, and wherever they are exposed to the east, west, or southern gales are protected by high stone walls. On the north the hills alone afford sufficient shelter.

Towards the latter end of October the season commences, and continues until about the end of February, during which time the harbour of Ponta Delgada is continually crowded with shipping, whilst on shore the inhabitants are busy packing the fruit in boxes; these boxes are made from the wood brought chiefly from the forests that clothe the mountains at the eastern end of the island. The vessels in which the fruit is exported are principally small schooners, built rather short, capital sea boats, and manned by the best of captains and sailors, who thoroughly understand their profession. They go to sea in any weather, which is at times most severe, rarely if ever meet with any accidents on the voyage, and make the passage to England in from eight to ten days. It is true they are sometimes driven ashore when they break from their moorings in the exposed roadstead of Ponta Delgada during heavy gales from the south-west to the south-east, to which it is exposed; but this will be obviated by the new harbour, and was one of the objects of its being made. Sometimes, during the prevalence of these gales, they are obliged to slip their anchors, and run for shelter to the northern side of the island, where they occasionally ship their cargoes, which is always done by means of lighters from the shore. Immediately they are laden they start with the first fair wind, however strongly it blows; they never wait for weather, but as soon as laden they put to sea, and generally make good, indeed, the best of passages.

I met a young botanist who had come out in one of these vessels to Ponta Delgada, for the purpose of making botanical researches in this and in the neighbouring islands, in the month of March; they had an excellent passage until they got within about a hundred miles of St. Michael’s, when he said to the captain, “We shall be there to-morrow.” The captain, an excellent sailor, looking at the signs of the weather, replied, “I don’t think so. We are going to have a hard gale from the southward.” He immediately ordered his mate to well batten down the hatchways, shorten sail, and make all as snug as possible. The captain was right; the gale from the south came a few hours afterwards, with a very heavy sea.

The young botanist frankly confessed to me that he began to be terribly afraid at seeing the tremendous sea running after them, and asked the captain if there was any danger; when the captain coolly replied, “Never fear: it is only a little loss of time. Go to your berth, and lie there quietly. We shall get there safe enough, with a little patience.” The captain then ordered the vessel to be hove-to, and there she lay as comfortably as possible, never shipping a single sea, although the waves were running mountains high. After about five or six days she entered the bay of Ponta Delgada without having sustained the least damage. She got her cargo of fruit aboard and returned directly, and made one of the quickest passages that season to England.