"On Friday, the 13th of April, being desirous of leaving some pecuniary relief from myself for each of the synagogues, colleges, schools, and various charitable institutions, with their respective representatives themselves, I had previously made an arrangement to see them on that day, but a restless night and a constitution enfeebled, partly by the incessant work, and partly by the grief I acutely felt at the loss of my late friend Dr Hodgkin, compelled me to alter my plan, and instead of personal interviews I had to satisfy myself with addressing these gentlemen by letters, forty-two of which were despatched to the authorities and their accredited secretaries, accompanied by my humble offerings for the benefit of all the charitable institutions in Jerusalem.
"It was late in the afternoon, and the place was still crowded, but I considered now the object of my visit to Jerusalem realised, and retired to my own room to prepare for Sabbath.
"On Saturday, April 14th. after the morning service, I took a walk round the garden, and was much pleased with the improvement of the place since my last visit to Jerusalem.
"I regret, however, not being able to report the same of the land of Jaffa, which has been unfortunately let to persons who, being unable to resist the threatened attacks of the neighbouring Arabs, deserted the place altogether. The consequence is that the houses are completely demolished and the trees destroyed. I am at present, however, in communication with the Chief Háhám of the Morocco Congregation in Jerusalem in reference to this matter. If sufficient funds can be obtained for the purpose, I hope to see four or five families established at that now deserted place, who will apply themselves sedulously to the cultivation of the land, which is of considerable value, and ought to be immediately secured by a fence to mark its boundaries.
"As soon as the evening prayers were over, I gave orders for our departure. The whole of Saturday night was spent in communicating with a number of people who brought letters, or had some verbal communication to make, but as the morning dawn appeared, I wound my way towards the Jaffa Road, and took my departure from the Holy City, more deeply than ever impressed with its sacred reminiscences and its perennial beauty, and more fervently than ever offering prayers for its future welfare. 'As a seal I set thee on my heart, as a seal on my arm, if ever I forget thee, O Jerusalem, may my right hand forget her cunning.'
"We arrived, after a long day's journey, at Ramlah, where again we took up our abode in the Russian Hospice. All the way from Jerusalem to Jaffa we were followed by agriculturists from the Bokea, who were anxious to lay their case before me in hopes that I would at once afford them relief. I could, however, do no more than assure them that all should be done to make their situation known, and to arouse sympathy in their favour.
"On the following day, Monday, about noon, we left Ramlah for Jaffa, and on approaching the avenue at the entrance of that city were again met by the Governor, Judge, and Commander of the troops, with a numerous retinue. But I would not proceed into Jaffa until I had first visited the place which enclosed the mortal remains of my dear friend, Dr Hodgkin. That spot is at present surrounded by a strong railing, but will, I trust, soon be covered by a granite column, for which I gave orders on my return to England, as a mark of my respect and esteem. We embarked the same evening on board the Rosetta, and on Wednesday, the 18th of April, arrived at Alexandria. The same night we went on board the Tanjore, which, by the blessing of heaven, brought us, after a most pleasant voyage, on Wednesday evening, the 25th of April, to Marseilles."
Before proceeding to notice the entries in his Diary after his arrival in England, we have to record two incidents in connection with his homeward journey, which he in his narrative left unnoticed.
Sir Moses' state of health, during the last few days of his sojourn in Jerusalem, manifested symptoms of great weakness, and it appeared most desirable to his travelling companions that he should leave the place as soon as possible. There were, however, none of the large steamers in the Jaffa harbour, and it was only with some difficulty that a few berths could be secured on board a small one. Unfortunately, the accommodation there was far from being comfortable. We had on board 1500 sheep, a dozen horses, and many oxen. There was no railing round the deck, where we had our places, except a rope or chain passing through iron stancheons. The sea was very rough and boisterous; the ship rolled terribly; and every now and then the towering waves, as they rushed on deck, swept some of the sheep, horses, and oxen overboard. Sir Moses could not go down into his cabin, and remained the whole night sitting on deck. The old man of eighty-one did not utter a single murmur; he bore the exposure to the raging elements, and endured the anxiety, which was felt by every one on board, with calmness and resignation. By the mercy of heaven we arrived safely at Alexandria, and we at once went on board the Tanjore, Captain Brooks. There Sir Moses found comfort and rest after the dangers he had braved. The sea was calm, the company agreeable. Theatrical performances, dances, and concerts beguiled the otherwise long and tedious hours on board ship, and it was on occasion of one of these concerts that Sir Moses experienced a most agreeable surprise. One of the band, handing round the programmes of the concert to the passengers, brought one to Sir Moses, which contained, amongst others, the following pieces:—
| Hymn, — | "Yigdál Elokim Kháy," | — Unknown. |
| Hymn, — | "Adón Olám," | — Unknown. |
These are two hymns in the Jewish Prayer-book. Sir Moses hardly expected to find them in a programme of music on board the P. and O. Company's steamship Tanjore. He therefore thought that possibly some Hebrew scholar among the passengers might have written the words in Hebrew for the amusement of the travellers, some of whom were Oriental scholars from India. But, when after a valse the ancient Hebrew hymn was intoned to a well-known melody, which may be heard on Sabbath and festivals in the Spanish and Portuguese Synagogue in London, he was much affected, and softly sang the words to himself.
He considered it a mark of great attention on the part of those who had arranged the programme, and expressed himself in grateful terms for the pleasant surprise.
May 9th.—Sir Moses arrived at Ramsgate. Next day he proceeded to Brighton, thence to Lewes to pay a visit of condolence to Dr Hodgkin's brother. On the 14th he was again at the Alliance, and on the 17th he called on Baron Brunnow.
"He received me," Sir Moses says, "most kindly. Though much engaged, he heard my report of the Russian Hospice, and expressed a desire that I would write him and he would send my letter to the Emperor, who, he said, was always pleased to hear that his efforts for the happiness of others had been successful. I then called at the Foreign Office, and was received by Lord Clarendon; thanked him for his letters of introduction to the British Consul at Syria, and for the letters he had procured for me from the Turkish Government through Lord Lyons. I gave him an account of my visit to Jerusalem, the kindness I had received from Mr Moore, the distinguished manner in which I had been received by the Governor of Jerusalem, and the anxiety his Excellency has evinced for the improvement of the condition of the Jews in Jerusalem. I informed his Lordship that great improvements had already been made there, and on my arrival at Jerusalem I found that the land was much better cultivated, and that there were many more buildings than on the occasion of my last visit. Lord Clarendon said that if I sent him in writing all that I had said, he would take the opportunity of thanking the Turkish authorities, in the name of the English Government, for their reception of me. I then spoke of the great kindness and attention I had received from Mr Moore, of the friendship he evinced during my trouble (the loss of my friend, Dr Hodgkin), of the esteem in which Mr Moore was held by persons of all classes without distinction of faith. Lord Clarendon asked me to write this to him also, and said, 'It is seed that shall produce fruit.' Nothing could have been more kind than his Lordship's reception of me."
June 3rd.—He went to his favourite retreat, Smithembottom, for a few hours' reflection on the past and the future, but not until he considered he had discharged all the duties in connection with his last mission.
July 24th.—A granite pillar was bought by him for the tomb of his lamented friend, Dr Hodgkin, and sent to Jaffa at his expense.