I took the head man apart and putting a sum of money in his hand, told him that we had no desire to be a charge on any one; all we asked was permission to pay a fair price for what provisions we might require, and that I would give him whatever more might be due before leaving. His objections vanished in a moment, and we were in hopes that at last we had found a means of purchasing honestly what we required. In an hour, however, he returned with the money in his hand, saying that it would be a disgrace to our Lord the Bey, if a Consul were permitted to travel through his country save as a guest, that everything we required should be supplied, but that payment was out of the question. Our spahis had got hold of him in the interim, and, as usual, they managed to have their own way, which was that we should rather expend our money in presents than in payments, and for very obvious reasons.
The grove where we were encamped was full of pigeons and other birds. My companion, who could never see a pigeon or game-bird without an irresistible longing to bag it, was on the point of loading his gun, when the Arab implored us not to shoot them, as they were in the habit of frequenting the Saint’s tomb, and were considered as partaking of his sanctity. I need hardly add that we were delighted to respect this pleasant superstition.
FOOTNOTES:
[167]Guérin, i. p. 376.
[168]Desfontaines, ap. Dureau de la Malle, ii. p. 76.
[169]Guérin, i. p. 371.
[170]Morcelli, i. p. 287.
[171]El Bekri, trad. de Slane, p. 324.
[172]Temple, Excurs. in Medit. ii. p. 252.
[173]Temple, ii. p. 259.