Each of the tribe, in the middle between the eyes, has a Greek cross marked with antimony. They are Kabyles. Though living in tribes, they have among the mountains huts built with mud and straw, which they call Dashkras, whereas the Arabs live in tents on the plains.
I imagine these to be a remnant of the Vandals. Procopius mentions a defeat of an army of this nation here after a desperate resistance, a remnant of which may be supposed to have maintained themselves in these mountains. They with great pleasure confessed their ancestors had been Christians, and seemed to rejoice much more in that relation than in any connection with the Moors, with whom they live in perpetual war. They pay no taxes to the Bey, but live in constant defiance of him.
It happened that one of these tribes had its dwelling upon a pointed rock (probably the Tamar of Procopius) just over the ruins of Lambessa. As we approached then these ruins, the nine soldiers of the Bey began to murmur for fear of the Neardie[52] (so they call this sturdy tribe, who had often beat the Bey); and matters had come the length of an absolute refusal to follow, when we alighted at an encampment of Arabs three hours’ journey from Lambessa. I was fatigued with hunting and the heat of the day, and having pitched my tent, lay down to sleep, when I heard a dispute between my servants and an Arab who was wanting to come into the tent to speak to me. As everything is of consequence to be attended to in these countries, I got up and brought the Arab into my tent. He was an old man of a mean appearance. He asked me what countryman I was, and if I spoke Italian. I answered that I was an Englishman, had been all over Italy and spoke Italian perfectly; and I was very much surprised to hear him ask me in very good Italian if I had ever been to Nice, or knew General Paterson. Having satisfied him that I knew the General, and what near neighbours and intimate friends our families were, he leaped up and embraced me with great joy and sincerity, calling General Paterson his father. He told me that he had been taken by the Sardinian galleys and at first ill used, but that by the interposition of General Paterson he had been exempted from all hardships and confinement, and treated with great humanity, tenderness and confidence; that he had also assisted him in his redemption. There was no end of his thanks and gratitude. He brought his wives and daughters into my tent, the greatest of all marks of veneration amongst the Arabs. He feasted us magnificently and seemed only at a loss he could do no more. The Arabs, who from the door of the tent had heard their chief speak an unknown language, and show such marks of respect to a stranger and a Christian, the object of their aversion, came all into the tent; and after a very adroit explanation given by the old man, all of them made me the most fervent offers of service as the friend of the deliverer of their chief. It was now time to enter into a discourse about the Neardie, the fears of my companions and my resolution to see Lambessa at all hazards. They laughed heartily at the fears of the Bey’s horsemen, which however they confessed to be well founded, and seemed to think little of the journey itself. ‘You shall do,’ said the old man, ‘in this case, what no wise man will do in general; you shall leave your old friends for your new; you shall leave the Bey’s soldiers to eat and drink here, and I will conduct you to Lambessa. If any harm falls on you in my company, let the soldiers witness against me to their master.’
I made no scruple to follow his directions, and on the next morning we entered the dark, rocky, wooded defiles which lead to Lambessa, full of lions, tigers[53] and men more savage than these animals.
We stayed three days at Lambessa without molestation and returned to the tents of our Arab conductor. To this accident is owing my having made one of the most accurate drawings ever seen on paper[54] as well as the knowledge of many historical circumstances. He attended us two days’ journey on our return, and embracing me at parting, said to me in Arabic, ‘God is a free Agent in judgment. He saves whom He pleases, and condemns whom He pleases; if so we may, though of different religions, meet in Paradise. To me it seems impossible that God the Great and Merciful should make men like General Paterson and you for damnation.’
FOOTNOTES:
[35]Shaw, p. 110.
[36]See Ragot, Ann. Arch. Const. xvi. p. 224.
[37]Peyssonnel, ap. D. de la Malle, i. p. 334.
[38]This is Djebel Harkat, the root of which word is identical with that of the Harackta tribe in the neighbourhood.