TO

DAVID PLAYFAIR HEATLEY

WHOSE PRESENCE IN THE EAST WOULD BRING HAPPINESS
TO EXILE, AND WHOSE ABSENCE IN THE WEST HAS
CAUSED HIS BANISHED FRIEND TO TURN
MANY TIMES WITH LONGING TO
THE SETTING SUN.

CONTENTS

CHAP.PAGE
[I].INTRODUCTION1
[II].PEKING TO ICHANG10
[III].ICHANG TO WAN-HSIEN THROUGH THE YANGTSE GORGES24
[IV].WAN-HSIEN TO CH'ÊNG-TU31
[V].CH'ÊNG-TU TO OMEI-HSIEN43
[VI].MOUNT OMEI AND CHINESE BUDDHISM54
[VII].MOUNT OMEI82
[VIII].OMEI-HSIEN TO TACHIENLU112
[IX].TACHIENLU131
[X].TACHIENLU TO PA-U-RONG, YALUNG RIVER153
[XI].PA-U-RONG TO MULI186
[XII].MULI TO YUNG-NING213
[XIII].YUNG-NING TO LI-CHIANG234
[XIV].LI-CHIANG TO TALI-FU248
[XV].ETHNOLOGY OF THE CHINESE FAR WEST265
[XVI].TALI-FU TO BHAMO293
[XVII].BHAMO TO MANDALAY322
[XVIII].CONCLUSION354
[APPENDIX A]: VOCABULARIES391
[APPENDIX B]: ITINERARY399
[NOTES]411
[GENERAL INDEX]447
[INDEX OF NAMES]453

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

[CROSSING THE YALUNG RIVER]Frontispiece
[A FLEET OF JUNKS]To face page10
[ SOUTH BANK OF YELLOW RIVER, WITH VIEW OF RAILWAY BRIDGE]14
[A CHINESE "BRAVE"]„32
[A CHINESE WALLED CITY]„44
[CHILDREN OF CHINA]„53
[CHINESE BUDDHIST MONKS IN "UNDRESS"]„65
[CHINESE PLAN WITH AMITABHA BUDDHA AS CENTRAL FIGURE]„74
["JIM" ON THE SUMMIT OF MOUNT OMEI]„102
[CHINESE PLAN OF MOUNT OMEI, SURMOUNTED BY THE SEAL OF THE MONASTERY OF THE GOLDEN SUMMIT]„105
[TEA-CARRIERS ON THE ROAD TO TACHIENLU]„118
[APPROACH TO TACHIENLU]„118
[VIEW FROM THE "SUMMER PALACE" NEAR TACHIENLU]„142
[CHINESE HALF-RUPEE AND TIBETAN COINS]„152
[REDUCED FACSIMILE OF SILVER PLAQUE WORN BY WOMEN IN THE YALUNG VALLEY]„152
[CLAY VOTIVE TABLETS FROM MULI, WITH MINIATURE BUDDHAS]„152
[EAR-RING WORN BY MO-SO WOMEN OF YUNG-NING]„152
["THE GATE OF TIBET"]„154
[OCTAGONAL TOWER AT RI WA]„170
[HOUSE OF T'U PAI HU]„172
[THE AUTHOR'S CARAVAN]„172
[A RUSTIC BRIDGE]„174
[TIBETANS OF WESTERN SSUCH'UAN]„177
[MOUNTAIN SCENERY NEAR SIN GO LA]„177
[A HALT ON THE ROAD TO MULI]„188
[MOUNTAIN AND VALLEY ON THE ROAD TO MULI]„202
[THE AUTHOR'S CAMP, 2ND MAY]„208
[RUSTIC BRIDGE CROSSING LITANG RIVER ON THE ROAD TO MULI]„210
[LAMASERY OF MULI]„220
[THE AUTHOR'S MULETEERS, NEAR YUNG-NING]„226
[YUNG-NING]„229
[THE YANGTSE RIVER, NEAR YUNG-NING, ABOVE THE FERRY]„236
[THE YANGTSE RIVER AT THE FERRY]„238
[TALI-FU]„260
[VIEW AT PAGAN, IRRAWADDY RIVER, BURMA]„332
[MONASTERY AT PAGAN, IRRAWADDY RIVER, BURMA]„349
[RUINS AT ANURADHAPURA, CEYLON]„354
[A VILLAGE FAIR IN CHINA, WITH OPEN-AIR THEATRE]„356
[A TEMPLE-THEATRE IN NORTH CHINA]„371
[THE GRAVE OF "JIM", WEIHAIWEI]„376
[ MAP—AUTHOR'S ITINERARY FROM HANKOW TO BHAMO]At the End