A stranger, especially an official, is kindly warned, on his first arrival at Great Salt Lake City, of its inveterate cliquism,CLIQUISM. and is amicably advised to steer a middle course, without turning to the right or to the left, between the Scylla and Charybdis of Christianity and Mormonism. This mezzo-termine may be possible in official matters; in society it is not. I soon saw that, though a traveler on the wing might sit alternately in the tents of Shem and Japhet, a resident would soon be obliged to dwell exclusively in either one or the other. When Gentile and Mormon meet, they either maintain a studied or surly silence, or they enter into a dialogue which, on a closer acquaintance with its formation, proves to be a conglomerate of “rile” and “knagg”—an unpleasant predicament for those en tiers. Such, at least, was my short experience, and I believe that of my companions.
Colonel Stambaugh, a day or two after the introduction, offered to act cicerone through the settlement, and I was happy to accept his kindness. One fine evening we drove along the Tooele Road westward, and drank of the waters of the New Jordan, which, to the unregenerate palate, tasted, I must say, somewhat brackish and ill-flavored. The river is at this season about one hundred feet broad, and not too deep below its banks to be useless for irrigation, which, as the city increases, will doubtless be extended. It is spanned by a wooden bridge so rickety that it shakes with a child’s tread—the governor has urgently but unavailingly represented the necessity of reconstruction. But, although the true Western, or rather Keltic recklessness of human life—which contrasts so strongly with the sanctity attached to it by the old Roman and the modern Anglo-Scandinavian—here still displays itself, in some points there is no disregard for improvement. Mr. Brigham Young has seen the evils of disforesting the land, and the want of plantations; he has lately contracted for planting, near Jordan and elsewhere, a million of young trees at the rate of one cent each. On the way we saw several fine Durhams and Devons, which are driven out every morning and back every evening under the charge of a boy, who receives one and a half cent per mensem a head. The animals have been brought across the prairies at great trouble and expense: stock-breeding is one of the Prophet’s useful hobbies, and the difference between the cattle in Utah Territory and the old Spanish herds still seen in the country parts of California is remarkable. The land, as will presently appear, is better calculated for grazing than for agriculture, and a settlement of 500 souls rarely has less than 500 head of cattle.
Returning from Jordan, we re-entered the city by the western road, and drove through Mr. Brigham Young’s block toward the Northern Kanyon. The gateway was surmounted by a plaster group, consisting of a huge vulturine eagle, perched, with wings outspread, neck bended as if snuffing the breeze of carrion from afar, and talons clinging upon a yellow bee-hive—a most uncomfortable and unnatural position for the poor animal. The device is doubtless highly symbolical, emblematical, typical—in fact, every thing but appropriate and commonsensical. The same, however, may be said of one of the most picturesque ensigns in the civilized world—what have stars to do with stripes or stripes with stars? It might be the device of the British or Austrian soldier—only in their case, unlike the flag of the United States, the stripes should be many and the stars few. En passant we remarked a kind of guard-room at the eastern doorway of the White House—a presidential title which the house of prophecy in New Zion shares with the house of politication[130] at Washington: my informants hinted that, in case of an assault upon head-quarters by roughs, marshals, or other officials, fifty rifles could at once be brought to bear upon the spot, and 1000 after the first hour. On the eastern side of the compound were the stables; a lamb in effigy surmounted the entrance, and meekly reposed under the humane injunction, “Take care of your flocks.” Beyond this point lay a number of decrepit emigrant wagons, drawn up to form a fence, a young plantation of fruitless peaches, and the remnants of the falling wall.
[130] The Western press uses to “politicate,” v. n. to make a trade of politics, and the participle politicating—why not, then, politication?
We then struck into “City,” usually known as “Brigham’s” Kanyon,BRIGHAM’S KANYON. the Prophet having a saw-mill upon the upper course. It is the normal deep narrow gorge, with a beautiful little stream, which is drawn off by raised water-courses at different altitudes to supply the settlement. The banks are margined with dwarf oaks and willows; limestone, sandstone, and granite, all of fine building quality, lie scattered about in profusion, while high above rise the acclivities of the gash, thinly sprinkled with sage and sunflower. Artemisia in this part improves like the population in appearance, nor is it always a sign of sterility; in parts wheat grows well where the shrub has been uprooted. The road along the little torrent was excellent; it would have cost $100,000 in Pennsylvania, but here much is done by tithe-work; moreover, the respect for the Prophet is such that men would rather work for him on credit than take pay from others.
Being in want of local literature, after vainly ransacking the few book-stalls which the city contains, I went to the Public Library,UTAH LIBRARY. and, by sending in a card, at once obtained admission. As usual in the Territories of the United States, this institution is supported by the federal government, which, besides $1500 for books, gave $5000 for the establishment, and $400 from the treasury of Utah is paid to the Territorial librarian, Mr. John Lyon, who is also a poet. The management is under the Secretary of the Territory, and the public desire to see an extra grant of $500 per annum.[131] The volumes, about 1000 in number, are placed in a large room on the north side of the “Mountaineer” office, and the librarian attends every Thursday, when books are “loaned” to numerous applicants. The works are principally those of reference, elementary, and intended for the general reader, such as travels, popular histories, and novels. The “Woman in White” had already found her way across the prairies, and she received the honors and admiration which she deserved.
[131] An Act in relation to Utah Library:
Sec. 1. Be it enacted by the Governor and Legislative Assembly of the Territory of Utah, That a librarian shall be elected by a joint vote of the Legislative Assembly of the Territory of Utah, whose duty it shall be to take charge of the library (known in law as the Utah Library), as hereinafter prescribed.
Sec. 2. Said librarian shall hold his office during the term of two years, or until his successor is appointed, and shall give bonds for the faithful discharge of his duties in the sum of $6000, and file the same in the office of Secretary of the Territory before entering upon his duties, who may also appoint a deputy, as occasion requires, to act in his stead, under the same restrictions as the principal librarian.
Sec. 3. It shall be the duty of the librarian to cause to be printed, at as early a date as practicable, a full and accurate catalogue of all books, maps, globes, charts, papers, apparatus, and valuable specimens in any way belonging to said library; also to use diligent efforts to preserve from waste, loss, or damage, any portion of said library.