The City of the Saints, and Across the Rocky Mountains to California - Sir Richard Francis Burton

I. EMIGRANT’S ITINERARY,

Showing the distances between camping-places, the several mail-stations where mules are changed, the hours of travel, the character of the roads, and the facilities for obtaining water, wood, and grass on the route along the southern bank of the Platte River, from St. Joseph, Mo., viâ Great Salt Lake City, to Carson Valley. From a Diary kept between the 7th of August and the 19th of October, 1860.

No. of Mail.		Miles.	Start.	Arrival.	Date.
1.	Leave St. Joseph, Missouri, in N. lat. 39° 40′, and W. long. 94° 50′. Cross Missouri River by steam ferry. Five miles of bottom land, bend in river and settlements. Over rolling prairie 2000 feet above sea level. After 6 miles, Troy, capital of Doniphan Co., Kansas Territory, about a dozen shanties. Dine and change mules at Cold Spring—good water and grass.	20-24	A.M. 9 30	P.M. 3	Aug. 7
	Road from Fort Leavenworth (N. lat. 39° 21′ 14″, and W. long. 94° 44′) falls in at Cold Spring, distant 15 miles.
	From St. Jo to Cold Spring there are two routes, one lying north of the other, the former 20, the latter 24 miles in length.
2.	After 10 miles, Valley Home, a whitewashed shanty. At Small Branch on Wolf River, 12 miles from Cold Spring, is a fiumara on the north of the road, with water, wood, and grass. Here the road from Fort Atchinson falls in. Kennekuk Station, 44 miles from St. Joseph. Sup and change mules.	22-23	P.M. 4	P.M. 8	Aug. 7
3.	Two miles beyond Kennekuk is the first of the three Grasshopper Creeks, flowing after rain to the Kansas River. Road rough and stony; water, wood, and grass. Four miles beyond the First Grasshopper is Whitehead, a young settlement on Big Grasshopper; water in pools, wood, and grass. Five and a half miles beyond is Walnut Creek, in Kickapoo Co.: pass over corduroy bridge; roadside dotted with shanties. Thence to Locknan’s, or Big Muddy Station.	25	P.M. 9	A.M. 1	Aug. 7, 8
4.	Seventeen miles beyond Walnut Creek, the Third Grasshopper, also falling into the Kansas River. Good camping-ground. Ten miles beyond lies Richland, deserted site. Thence to Seneca, capital of Nemehaw Co. A few shanties on the N. bank of Big Nemehaw Creek, a tributary of the Missouri River, which affords water, wood, and grass.	18	A.M. 3	A.M. 6	Aug. 8
5.	Cross Wildcat Creek and other nullahs. Seven miles beyond Seneca lies Ash Point, a few wooden huts, thence to “Uncle John’s Grocery,” where liquor and stores are procurable. Eleven miles from Big Nemehaw, water, wood, and grass are found at certain seasons near the head of a ravine. Thence to Vermilion Creek, which heads to the N.E., and enters the Big Blue 20 miles above its mouth. The ford is miry after rain, and the banks are thickly wooded. Water is found in wells 40-43 feet deep. Guittard’s Station.	20	A.M. 8	NOON. 12	Aug. 8
6.	Fourteen miles from Guittard’s, Marysville, capital of Washington Co., affords supplies and a blacksmith. Then ford the Big Blue, tributary to Kansas River, clear and swift stream. Twelve miles W. of Marysville is the frontier line between Kansas and Nebraska. Thence to Cotton-wood Creek, fields in hollow near the stream.	25	P.M. 1	P.M. 6	Aug. 8
7.	Store at the crossing very dirty and disorderly. Good water in spring 400 yards N. of the road; wood and grass abundant. Seventeen and a half miles from the Big Blue is Walnut Creek, where emigrants encamp. Thence to West Turkey or Rock Creek in Nebraska Territory, a branch of the Big Blue: its approximate altitude is 1485 feet.	26	P.M. 6	P.M. 11	Aug. 8
8.	After 19 miles of rough road and musquetoes, cross Little Sandy, 5 miles E. of Big Sandy; water and trees plentiful. There Big Sandy deep and heavy bed. Big Sandy Station.	23	P.M. 12	A.M. 4	Aug. 9
9.	Cross hills forming divide of Little Blue River, ascending valley 60 miles long. Little Blue fine stream of clear water falling into Kansas River; every where good supplies and good camping-ground. Along the left bank to Kiowa.	19	A.M. 6	A.M. 10	Aug. 9
10.	Rough road of spurs and gullies runs up a valley 2 miles wide. Well wooded chiefly with cotton-wood, and grass abundant. Ranch at Liberty Farm, on the Little Blue.	25	A.M. 11	P.M. 3	Aug. 9
11.	Cross divide between Little Blue and Platte River; rough road, musquetoes troublesome. Approximate altitude of dividing ridge 2025 feet. Station at Thirty-two-Mile Creek, a small wooded and winding stream flowing into the Little Blue.	24	P.M. 4	P.M. 9	Aug. 9
12.	After 27 miles strike the Valley of the Platte, along the southern bank of the river, over level ground, good for camping, fodder abundant. After 7 miles Fort Kearney in N. lat. 40° 38′ 45″, and W. long. 98° 58′ 11″: approximate altitude 2500 feet above sea level. Groceries, cloths, provisions, and supplies of all kinds are to be procured from the sutler’s store. Beyond Kearney a rough and bad road leads to “Seventeen-Mile Station”.	34	P.M. 10 30	A.M. 8	Aug. 10
13.	Along the south bank of the Platte. Buffalo chips used for fuel. Sign of buffalo appears. Plum-Creek Station on a stream where there is a bad crossing in wet weather.	21	A.M. 9 30	P.M. 1 15	Aug. 10
14.	Beyond Plum Creek, Willow-Island Ranch, where supplies are procurable. Road along the Platte, wood scarce, grass plentiful, buffalo abounds; after 20 miles “Cold-Water Ranch.” Halt and change at Midway Station.	25	P.M. 2 30	P.M. 8	Aug. 10
15.	Along the Valley of the Platte, road muddy after rain, fuel scarce, grass abundant, camp traces every where. Ranch at Cotton-wood Station, at this season the western limit of buffalo.	27	P.M. 9	A.M. 1 45	Aug. 11
16.	Up the Valley of the Platte. No wood; buffalo chips for fuel. Good camping-ground; grass on small branch of the Platte. To Junction-House Ranch, and thence to station at Frémont Springs.	30	A.M. 6 15	A.M. 11	Aug. 11
17.	Road passes O’Fallon’s Bluffs. “Half-way House,” a store and ranch, distant 120 miles from Fort Kearney, 400 from St. Joseph, 40 from the Lower Crossing, and 68 from the Upper Crossing of the South Fork (Platte River). The station is called Alkali Lake.	25	NOON. 12	P.M. 5	Aug. 11
18.	Road along river; no timber; grass, buffalo chips, and musquetoes. Station at Diamond Springs near Lower Crossing.	25	P.M. 6	P.M. 10 15	Aug. 11
19.	Road along river. Last 4 miles very heavy sand, avoided by Lower Crossing. Poor accommodation at Upper Ford or Crossing on the eastern bank, where the mail passes the stream en route to Great Salt Lake City, and the road branches to Denver City and Pike’s Peak.	25	P.M. 11	A.M. 3 15	Aug. 12
20.	Ford Platte 600 yards wide, 2·50 feet deep, bed gravelly and solid, easy ford in dry season. Cross divide between North and South Forks, along the bank of Lodge-Pole Creek. Land arid; wild sage for fuel. Lodge-Pole Station.	35	A.M. 6 30	P.M. 12 45	Aug. 12
21.	Up Lodge-Pole Creek over a spur of table-land; then, striking over the prairie, finishes the high divide between the Forks. Approximate altitude 3500 feet. On the right is Ash Hollow, where there is plenty of wood and a small spring. The station is Mud Springs, a poor ranch.	25	P.M. 3	P.M. 5 45	Aug. 12
22.	Route lies over a rolling divide between the Forks, crossing Omaha, Lawrence, and other creeks, where water and grass are procurable. Cedar is still found in hill-gullies. About half a mile north of Chimney Rock is a ranch where the cattle are changed.	25	A.M. 8	P.M. 12 30	Aug. 13
23.	Road along the south bank of North Ford of Platte River. Wild sage the only fuel in the valley: small spring on top of first hill. Rugged labyrinth of paths abreast of Scott’s Bluffs, which lie 5 miles S. of river, in N. lat. 41° 48′ 26″, and W. long. 103° 45′ 02″. Water found in first ravine of Scott’s Bluffs 200 yards below the road, cedars on heights. To station.	24	P.M. 1 30	P.M. 5 30	Aug. 13
24.	Road along the river; crosses Little Kiowa Creek, a tributary to Horse Creek, which flows into the Platte. Ford Horse Creek, a clear shallow stream with a sandy bottom. No wood below the hills.	16	P.M. 6 30	P.M. 8 30	Aug. 13
25.	Route over sandy, and heavy river bottom and rolling ground, leaving the Platte on the right: cotton-wood and willows on the banks. Ranch at Laramie City kept by M. Badeau, a Canadian, who sells spirits, Indian goods, and outfit.	26	A.M. 6	P.M. 10 20	Aug. 14
26.	After 9 miles of rough road cross Laramie Fork and enter Fort Laramie, N. lat. 42° 12′ 38″, and W. long. 104° 31′ 26″. Altitude 4519 feet. Military post, with post-office, sutler’s stores, and other conveniences. Thence To Ward’s Station on the Central Star, small ranch and store.	18	P.M. 12 15	P.M. 4	Aug. 14
27.	Rough and bad road. After 14 miles cross Bitter Cotton-wood Creek; water rarely flows; after rain 10 feet wide and 6 inches deep; grass and fuel abundant. Pass Indian shop and store. At Bitter Creek branch of Cotton-wood the road to Salt Lake City forks. Emigrants follow the Upper or South road over spurs of the Black Hills, some way south of the river, to avoid kanyons and to find grass. The station is called Horseshoe Creek. Residence of road-agent, Mr. Slade, and one of the worst places on the line.	25	P.M. 5	P.M. 9 30	Aug. 14
28.	Road forks; one line follows the Platte, the other turns to the left, over “cut-off;” highly undulating ridges, crooked and deeply dented with dry beds of rivers; land desolate and desert. No wood nor water till end of stage. La Bonté River and Station; unfinished ranch in valley; water and grass.	25	A.M. 10 45	A.M. 2 45	Aug. 15
29.	Road runs 6 miles (wheels often locked) on rugged red land, crosses several dry beds of creeks, and springs with water after melting of snow and frosts in dry season, thence into the Valley of the Platte. After 17 miles it crosses the La Prêle (Rush River), a stream 16 feet wide, where water and wood abound. At Box-Elder Creek Station good ranch and comfortable camping-ground.	25	P.M. 4	P.M. 9	Aug. 15
30.	Along the Platte River, now shrunk to 100 yards. After 10 miles, M. Bissonette; at Deer Creek, a post-office, blacksmith’s shop, and store near Indian Agency. Thence a waste of wild sage to Little Muddy, a creek with water. No accommodation nor provisions at station.	20	A.M. 8 30	NOON. 12	Aug. 16
31.	After 8 miles cross vile bridge over Snow Creek. Thence up the river valley along the S. bank of the Platte to the lower ferry. To Lower Bridge, old station of troops. To Upper Bridge, where the ferry has now been done away with.	18	P.M. 1 15	P.M. 4 15	Aug. 16
32.	Road ascends a hill 7 miles long; land rough, barren, and sandy in dry season. After 10 miles, red spring near the Red Buttes, an old trading-place and post-office. Road then leaves the Platte River and strikes over high, rolling, and barren prairie. After 18 miles, “Devil’s Backbone” Station at Willow Springs; wood, water, and grass; good place for encampment, but no accommodation nor provisions. On this stage mineral and alkaline waters dangerous to cattle abound.	28	A.M. 6 30	P.M. 12 50	Aug. 17
33.	After 3 miles, Green Creek, not to be depended upon, and Prospect Hill, a good look-out. Then, at intervals of 3 miles, Harper’s, Woodworth’s, and Greasewood Creeks, followed by heavy sand. At 17 miles, “Saleratus Lake,” on the west of the road. Four miles beyond is “Independence Rock,” Ford Sweetwater, leaving the “Devil’s Gate” on the right. Pass a blacksmith’s shop. Sage the only fuel. Plante or Muddy Station; family of Canadians; no conveniences.	33	P.M. 2 30	P.M. 9 15	Aug. 17
34.	Along the winding banks of the Sweetwater. After 4 miles, “Alkali Lake” S. of the road. Land dry and stony; stunted cedars in hills. After 12 miles, the “Devil’s Post-office,” a singular bluff on the left of the road, and opposite a ranch kept by a Canadian. Mail station “Three Crossings,” at Ford No. 3; excellent water, wood, grass, game, and wild currants.	25	A.M. 7	A.M. 11	Aug. 18
35.	Up a kanyon of the Sweetwater. Ford the river 5 times, making a total of 8. After 16 miles, “Ice Springs” in a swampy valley, and one quarter of a mile beyond “Warm Springs.” Then rough descent and waterless stretch. Descend by “Lander’s Cut-off” into fertile bottom. “Rocky Ridge Station;” at Muskrat Creek good cold spring, grass, and sage fuel.	35	A.M. 5 45	P.M. 12 45	Aug. 19
36.	Up the bed of the creek, and, ascending long hills, leave the Sweetwater. After 4 miles, 3 alkaline ponds S. of the road. Rough path. After 7 miles, “Strawberry Creek,” 6 feet wide; good camping-ground; willows and poplars. One mile beyond is Quaking-Asp Creek, often dry. Three miles beyond lies M‘Achran’s Branch, 33 × 2. Then “Willow Creek,” 10 × 2; good camping-ground. At Ford No. 9 is a Canadian ranch and store. A long table-land leads to “South Pass,” dividing trip between the Atlantic and Pacific, and thence 2 miles to the station at “Pacific Springs;” water, tolerable grass, sage fuel, and musquetoes.	35	A.M. 7 45	P.M. 3	Aug. 20
37.	Cross Miry Creek. Road down Pacific Creek; water scarce for 20 miles. After 11 miles, “Dry Sandy Creek;” water scarce and too brackish to drink; grass little; sage and greasewood plentiful. After 16 miles, “Sublette’s Cut-off,” or the “Dry Drive,” turns N.W. to Soda Springs and Fort Hall: the left fork leads to Fort Bridger and Great Salt Lake City. Four miles beyond the junction is “Little Sandy Creek,” 20-25 × 2; grass, timber, and good camping-ground. Eight miles beyond is “Big Sandy Creek,” clear, swift, and with good crossing, 110 × 2. The southern route is the best; along the old road, no water for 49 miles. Big Sandy Creek Station.	33	A.M. 8	P.M. 12 50	Aug. 21
38.	Desolate road cuts off the bend of the river; no grass nor water. After 12 miles, “Simpson’s Hollow.” Fall into the Valley of Green River, half a mile wide, water 110 yards broad. After 20¹⁄₂ miles, Upper Ford; Lower Ford 7 miles below Upper. Good camping-ground on bottom; at the station in Green River, grocery, stores, and ferry-boat when there is high water.	32	P.M. 1 45	P.M. 6 30	Aug. 21
39.	Diagonal ford over Green River; a good camping-ground in bottom. Follow the valley for 4 miles; grass and fuel. Michel Martin’s store and grocery. The road leaves the river and crosses a waterless divide to Black’s Fork, 100 × 2; grass and fuel. Wretched station at Ham’s Fork.	24	A.M. 8	NOON. 12	Aug. 22
40.	Ford Ham’s Fork. After 12 miles the road forks at the 2d striking of Ham’s Fork, both branches leading to Fort Bridger. Mail takes the left-hand path. Then Black’s Fork, 20 × 2, clear and pretty valley, with grass and fuel, cotton-wood and yellow currants. Cross the stream 3 times. After 12 miles, “Church Butte.” Ford Smith’s Fork, 30 feet wide and shallow, a tributary of Black’s Fork. Station at Millersville on Smith’s Fork; large store and good accommodation.	20	P.M. 2	P.M. 5 15	Aug. 22
41.	Road runs up the valley of Black’s Fork. After 12 miles, Fort Bridger, in N. lat. 41° 18′ 12″, and W. long. 110° 32′ 23″, on Black’s Fork of Green River. Commands Indian trade, fuel, corn; little grass. Post-office, sutler’s store, grocery, and other conveniences. Thence rough and rolling ground to Muddy Creek Hill; steep and stony descent. Over a fertile bottom to Big Muddy and Little Muddy Creek, which empties into Black’s Fork below Fort Bridger. At Muddy Creek Station there is a Canadian, provisions, excellent milk; no stores.	25	A.M. 8 30	P.M. 12 15	Aug. 23
42.	Rough country. The road winds along the ridge to Quaking-Asp Hill, 7900 (8400?) feet above sea level. Steep descent; rough and broken ground. After 18 miles, Sulphur Creek Valley; stagnant stream, flowing after rain; ford bad and muddy. Station in the fertile valley of Bear River, which turns northward and flows into the east side of the lake; wood, grass, and water. Poor accommodations at Bear River Station.	20	NOON. 12	P.M. 5 30	Aug. 23
43.	Road runs by Needle Rocks; falls into the Valley of Egan’s Creek. “Cache Cave” on the right hand. Three miles below the Cave is Red Fork in Echo Kanyon; unfinished station at the entrance. Rough road; steep ascents and descents along Red Creek Station on Weber River, which falls into Salt Lake south of Bear River.	36	A.M. 8 15	P.M. 2 30	Aug. 24
44.	Road runs down the Valley of the Weber. Ford the river. After 5¹⁄₄ miles is a salt spring, where the road leaves the river to avoid a deep kanyon, and turns to the left into a valley with rough paths, trying to wheels. Then crosses a mountain, and, ascending a long hill, descends to Bauchmin’s Creek, tributary to Weber River. Creek 18 feet wide, swift, pebbly bed, good ford; grass and fuel abundant. The station is called Carson’s House; accommodations of the worst.	22	P.M. 4 30	P.M. 7 45	Aug. 24
45.	Ford Bauchmin’s Creek 13 times in 8 miles. After 2 miles along a small water-course ascend Big Mountain, whence first view of Great Salt Lake City, 12 miles distant. After 14 miles, Big Kanyon Creek. Six miles farther the road leaves Big Kanyon Creek, and after a steep ascent and descent makes Emigration Creek. Cross Little Mountain, 2 miles beyond Big Mountain; road rough and dangerous. Five miles from Emigration Kanyon to Great Salt Lake City. Road through “Big Field” 6 miles square.	29	A.M. 7	P.M. 7 15	Aug. 28

Great Salt Lake City,	N. lat. 40° 46′ 08″
	W. long. 112° 06′ 08″ (G.)
	Altitude 4300 feet.

The variation of compass at Temple Block in 1849 was 15° 47′ 23″, and in 1860 it was 15° 54′, a slow progress toward the east. (In the Wind-River Mountains, as laid down by Colonel Frémont in 1842, it was E. 18°.) In Fillmore Valley it is now 18° 15′, and three years ago was about 17° east; the rapid progression to the east is accompanied with extreme irregularity, which the people attribute to the metallic constituents of the soil.

Total of days between St. Jo and Great Salt Lake City.	19
Total stages.	45
Distance in statute miles.	1136
From Fort Leavenworth to Great Salt Lake City.	1168

ITINERARY OF THE MAIL-ROUTE FROM GREAT SALT LAKE CITY TO SAN FRANCISCO.

No. of Mail.		Miles.	Start.	Arrival.	Date.
1 and 2.	Road through the south of the city, due south along the right bank of the Jordan. Cross many creeks, viz.,Kanyon Creek, 4¹⁄₄ miles; Mill Creek, 2¹⁄₂; First or GreatCotton-wood Creek, 2; Second ditto, 4; Fork of road, 1¹⁄₄; Dry Creek,3¹⁄₂; Willow Creek, 2³⁄₄.	44	10 30	9 30	Sept. 20
1 and 2.	After 22-23 miles, hot and cold springs, and half-way house, the brewery under the point of themountain. Road across Ash-Hollow or Jordan Kanyon, 2 miles. Fords river, knee deep; ascends a rough divide between UtahValley and Cedar Valley, 10 miles from camp, and finally reaches Cedar Creek and Camp Floyd.	44	10 30	9 30	Sept. 20
3.	Leaves Camp Floyd; 7 miles to the divide of Cedar Valley. Crosses the divide into Rush Valley; after atotal of 18·2 miles reaches Meadow Creek; good grass and water. Rush Valley mail station 1 mile beyond; food and accommodation.	20	10 30	9 30	Sept. 27
4.	Crosses remains of Rush Valley 7 miles. Up a rough divide called General Johnston’s Pass. Spring, oftendry, 200 yards on the right of the road. At Point Look-out leaves Simpson’s Road, which runs south. Cross Skull Valley; badroad. To the bench on the eastern flank of the desert. Station called Egan’s Springs, Simpson’s Springs, or Lost Springs,grass plentiful, water good.	27	A.M. 9 30	4 30	Sept. 28
5.	New station; road forks to S.E., and leads, after 5 miles, to grass and water. After 8 miles, river bottom,1 mile broad. Long line over desert to express station, called Dugway; no grass, and no water.	20	12	P.M. 5 30	Sept. 29
6.	Steep road 2¹⁄₂ miles to the summit of Dugway Pass. Descend by a rough incline;8 miles beyond the road forks to Devil’s Hole, 90 miles from Camp Floyd on Simpson’s route, and 6 miles S. of Fish Springs.Eight miles beyond the fork is Mountain Point; road winds S. and W., and then N. to avoid swamp, and crosses 3 sloughs.Beyond the last is Fish-Spring Station, on the bench—a poor place; water plentiful, but bad. Cattle here drink for thefirst time after Lost Springs, distant 48 miles.	28	P.M. 6 30	A.M. 3 30	Sept. 29
7.	Road passes many pools. Half way forks S. to Pleasant Valley (Simpson’s line). Road again rounds the swamp,crossing S. end of Salt Plain. After 21 miles, “Willow Creek;” water rather brackish. Station “Willow Springs” on the benchbelow the hills, at W. end of desert; grass and hay plentiful.	22	A.M. 10	3 30	Sept. 30
8.	Road ascending the bench, turns N. to find the pass. After 6 miles, Mountain Springs; good water,grass, and fuel. Six miles beyond is Deep-Creek Kanyon, a dangerousravine 9 miles long. Then descends into a fertile and well-watered valley, and after 7 miles enters Deep-Creek mail station.Indian farm.	28	A.M. 8	P.M. 4	Oct. 1
9.	Along Willow Creek. After 8 miles, “Eight-Miles Springs;” water, grass, and sage fuel. Kanyon after2¹⁄₂ miles, 500 yards long and easy. Then 19 miles through Antelope Valley to the station of thesame name, burnt in June, 1860, by Indians. Simpson’s route from Pleasant Valley, distant 12·5 miles, falls into the E. endof Antelope Valley, from Camp Floyd 151 miles.	30	A.M. 8	P.M. 4	Oct. 3, 4
10.	Road over the valley for 2 miles to the mouth of Shell-Creek Kanyon, 6 miles long. Rough road; fuelplentiful. Descends into Spring Valley, and then passes over other divides into Shell Creek, where there is a mail station;water, grass, and fuel abundant.	18	A.M. 6	P.M. 11	Oct. 5
11.	Descends a rough road. Crosses Steptoe Valley and bridged creek. Road heavy, sand or mud. After 16 miles,Egan’s Kanyon, dangerous for Indians. Station at the W. mouth burned by Indians in October, 1860.	18	P.M. 2	P.M. 6	Oct. 5
12.	Pass the divide, fall into Butte Valley, and cross its N. end. Bottom very cold. Mail station half way upa hill; a very small spring; grass on the N. side of the hill. Butte Station.	18	P.M. 8	A.M. 3	Oct. 6
13.	Ascend the long divide; 2 steep hills and falls. Cross the N. end of Long Valley, all barren. Ascend thedivide, and descend into Ruby Valley; road excellent; water, grass, and bottom; fuel distant. Good mail station.	22	A.M. 8	P.M. 1 45	Oct. 7
14.	Long divide; fuel plenty; no grass nor water. After 10 miles the road branches to the right hand toGravelly Ford of Humboldt River. Cross a dry bottom. Cross Smith’s Fork of Humboldt River in Huntingdon Valley; a littlestream; bunch-grass and sage fuel on the W. end. Ascend Chokop’s Pass, Dugway, and hard hill; descend into Moonshine Valley.Station at Diamond Springs; warm water, but good.	23	A.M. 8	P.M. 1 45	Oct. 8, 9
15.	Cross Moonshine Valley. After 7 miles a sulphurous spring and grass. Twelve miles beyond ascend the divide;no water; fuel and bunch-grass plentiful. Then a long divide. After 9 miles, the station on Roberts’ Creek, at the E. end ofSheawit, or Roberts’ Springs Valley.	28	A.M. 8	P.M. 1 45	Oct. 10
16.	Down the valley to the west; good road; sage small; no fuel. After 12 miles, willows and water-holes; 3miles beyond there are alkaline wells. Station on the bench; water below in a dry creek; grass must be brought from 15 miles.	35	A.M. 6 30	P.M. 12 30	Oct. 11
17.	Cross a long rough divide to Smoky Valley. At the northern end is a creek called “Wanahonop,” or “Netwood,”i. e., trap. Thence a long rough kanyon to Simpson’s Park; grass plentiful; water in wells 10 feet deep.Simpson’s Park in Shoshonee country, and, according to Simpson’s Itinerary, 348 miles from Camp Floyd.	25	A.M. 8 15	P.M. 2 25	Oct. 12
18.	Cross Simpson’s Park. Ascend Simpson’s Pass, a longkanyon, with sweet “Sage Springs” on the summit; bunch-grass plentiful. Descend to the fork of the road; right hand to thelower, left hand to the upper ford of Reese’s River. Water perennial and good; food poor.	15	A.M. 10	P.M. 2	Oct. 13
19.	Through the remainder of Reese’s River Valley. After a long divide, the Valley of Smith’s Creek; saleratus;no water nor grass. At last, the station, near a kanyon, and hidden from view. The land belongs to the Pa Yutas.	28	A.M. 7 20	P.M. 2 45	Oct. 14
20.	Ascend a rough kanyon, and descend to a barren and saleratus plain. Toward the south of the valley overbench-land, rough with rock and pitch-hole. “Cold Springs Station” half built, near stream; fuel scarce.	25	A.M. 8 15	P.M. 4 15	Oct. 15
21.	At the west gate, 2 miles from the station, good grass. After 8 miles, water. Two miles beyond is themiddle gate; water in fiumara, and grass near. Beyond the gate are 2 basins, long divides, winding road to “Sand SpringsValley;” bad water; little grass.	35	A.M. 9 50	P.M. 2 30	Oct. 16
22.	Cross the valley, 10 miles to the summit, over slough inundations and bad road. Summit shifting sand.Descend 5 miles to Carson Lake; water tolerable; tule abundant. Round the S. side of the lake to the sink of Carson RiverStation; no provisions; pasture good; fuel scarce.	25	A.M. 11	P.M. 9	Oct. 17
23.	Cross a long plain. Ascend a very steep divide, and sight Sierra 50 miles distant. Descend to Carson River.Fort Churchill newly built. Sutler’s stores, etc.	25	A.M. 9 30	P.M. 7 15	Oct. 18
24.	Carson City	35	11	10 30	Oct. 19
	Carson City lies on the eastern foot of the Sierra Nevada, distant 552 statute miles, accordingto Captain Simpson, from Camp Floyd. The present itinerary reduces it to 544, and, adding 44 miles, to a total of 588 fromGreat Salt Lake City.

Itinerary of Captain J. H. Simpson’s Wagon-road from Camp Floyd to Genoa, Carson Valley, Utah Territory. Explored by direction of General A. G. Johnston, commanding the Department of Utah, between the 2d of May and the 12th of June, 1859.