13th, Wednesday. No land in sight[[110]] during the day, and light easterly winds and calms prevailed with clear weather. Lat. at noon 2° 48′ S.
14th, Thursday. The course N.E. by E. Saw land bearing W.N.W., on which several large fires were burning, and at sunset were abreast of some small rocky islands, which seemed a continuation of the chain to the northward of Patta. Wind favourable. Lat. 2° 48′ S.
15th, Friday. In lat. 2° 41′ S., variation per azimuth 13° 29′ W. Fine weather, with light favourable winds.
16th, Saturday. In course of the afternoon yesterday we passed a reef of rocks, part of which rose considerably above the surface of the water, and had a very remarkable appearance. The reef runs from the N.E. point of Formosa Bay ([Note 12]), stretching several miles off shore in a south-easterly direction; the situation[[111]] I supposed to be in South lat. 2° 45′, for having to-day at noon observed in 2° 58′, it was then 15 or 16 miles astern of us. At noon the S.W. point of Formosa Bay bearing S.W. by W., observed two boats under the land; stood in with a view to speak them, and fired two guns which they took no notice of, but crowding all sail, made round the point into the Bay. Crossing the mouth of Formosa Bay at 5 P.M., saw another reef with breakers on it. We were at this time about 4 miles from shore, in 24 fathoms sand, and the breakers could not, I think, be more than 1½, or at the farthest, two miles from the ship. At 5 h. 20′ hove to in 13 fathoms, when the water suddenly shoaled to 6, 5, and one quarter less 4 fathoms, rocks. On shoaling a mosque, or round tower, was observed on a point or projecting part of the shore, bearing W. 3/4 N., distant 8 or 9 miles. Hauled our wind, and stood out for the night, intending to return next morning to determine as accurately as possible the exact situation of this dangerous shore. To-day there were light favourable winds with fine clear weather, the thermometer at 80°. Lat. at noon 2° 58′ S., long. 40° 8′ E.
17th, Sunday. At noon observed in lat. 3° 8′ S., the mosque seen on shore within the breakers yesterday, bearing due W. ([Note 13]). Spoke a country boat, which informed us the tower or mosque was called Gumanne;[[112]] also that a river opened at a short distance ahead, called Quiliffa.[[113]] At 4 P.M. were abreast of what we imagine to be this river, which has a small island at its mouth. Though the distance on the shore did not exceed two miles, no ground could be found with a line of 70 fathoms, and the water did not appear to be in any way discoloured. Thermometer 79°; lat. 3° 18′ S.; long. by chron. 40° 28′ E., by lunar 40° 30′ E.
18th, Monday. The coast rose into gently elevated hills, which were clothed with wood, and presented a fine fertile appearance. At noon the opening of the Quiliffa ([Note 14]), bearing N. 1/4 E. 8 or 9 miles; the lat. observed was 3° 32′ S. About 2 P.M. saw another river, said to be called the Channay,[[114]] distant from the ship 1½ miles right abreast. No soundings with 38 fathoms here. It had a large shoal with breakers close to the mouth, and its probable position may be in lat. 3° 32′ S., and long. 39° 51′ E.; variation by azimuth 13° 26′ W. To-day we had light easterly winds, with clear warm weather, the thermometer at 80½°. Here a pretty strong southerly current was experienced. Long. 39° 45′.
19th, Tuesday. The town of Mombaze, or as the natives pronounce it Mampass, was abreast of us, distant two miles. The fort stands at a short distance from the shore on a steep woody ridge, said to be an island, and has three flagstaffs on it. A little to the N.E. three remarkable hills or hummocks[[115]] serve as good marks for finding the place. Its situation my be in S. lat. 4° 2′, and in long. 39° 41′ 30″ E. At noon spoke a boat with a cargo of slaves, two days from Zanzibar, and towards evening saw the Island of Pemba a-head; worked to windward during night to weather it. Pleasant easterly breezes, with fine clear weather. The thermometer at 80°. Lat. at noon 4° 7′ S., long. by chron. 39° 51′ E.
20th, Wednesday. No land in sight during the early part of the day, which was sultry and calm, but in course of the afternoon, a breeze springing up about sunset, saw the Island of Pemba bearing S. 1/2 W. four or five leagues. In the evening stood out to the eastward, intending to return next day and observe the position of this island. The thermometer at 81°. Lat. observed at noon 4° 34′ S.
21st, Thursday. At noon observed in 5° 7′ S. the east point of Pemba, bearing west about two miles. Pemba is a low even island of considerable extent, being perhaps 16 or 17 leagues[[116]] in length. It is entirely covered with wood, and appears well-peopled. The shore, generally low and steep to the water’s edge, shelves in some small spots to a sandy beach remarkably white, that at a distance shows like walls or pieces of buildings. Throughout its whole extent are numerous creeks or inlets, and towards the S. W. end is a deep bay with several small islands at its mouth, hitherto as far as I know undescribed. Fresh north-easterly winds and cloudy weather; the thermometer at 82½°. Stood to windward during the night.
22nd, Friday. At noon saw the Island of Zanzibar a-head; about sunset anchored in 25 fathoms, green mud, abreast of Timbat, the largest of the small woody islands at the north-west end of Zanzibar. A little after the Sylph came close to us: the thermometer at 82°; lat. observed at noon 5° 37′ S.