CHAPTER XI.
Friday being the Mohammedan Sabbath we devoted this day to the Dancing and Howling Dervishes, as they hold their principal zikr or ceremonial on that day. We first visited the convent of the dancing Dervishes and witnessed one of their performances, and certainly a curious spectacle it was. In the centre of the room a space of about 50ft. in diameter is railed off, and about twenty solemn-looking men in hats like the tall “tile” without brims are sitting opposite the door. They looked like a lot of ancient “Friends” at the head of a meeting. In the gallery above were some musicians, one of whom was playing a flute in a melancholy manner, and another reciting a prayer. At a certain point the Dervishes within the circle bow and rise, and taking off their outer garments begin walking round the enclosure with solemn steps and slow, headed by the Chief Priest or Sheik. On passing the carpet upon which the Sheik has been sitting they turn and bow, and this is repeated two or three times; then they go into the middle of the enclosure, spreading out their garments like ladies in the old minuet; the music quickens, and they begin to whirl around on one foot, occasionally touching the ground with the other. The performers’ eyes are closed (or appear to be so), but they keep on in perfect order—never touching one another—while the old Priest walks about among them. Some of the more experienced Dervishes can revolve fifty or sixty times a minute, keeping it up for nearly half an hour. It was a curious proceeding altogether, and, for a wonder, no backsheesh was demanded, the Priests being supported by endowments and occasional gifts from the Khedive. Mounting our donkeys we rode off to the Howling Dervishes, where we found them in full howl. About twenty of them were engaged in making the most hideous noise imaginable. These fellows had their hair very long and shaggy, and threw it about their heads in the wildest manner. Every time they raise their heads they utter the word HU (God alone), which sounds like the yell of a wild beast, at times the excitement rising to such a height that some of them would foam at the mouth and fall to the ground apparently in a fit. They wound up their proceedings with a prolonged howl and a deep grunt. These Dervishes, like their dancing brethren, are supported by Government endowment.
I have no doubt that when first instituted these “pious orgies” were entered upon with a due sense of solemnity, and I believe in places remote from the regular tourist route the religious feeling still predominates, but the Howling and Dancing Dervishes in Cairo have long since become one of the regular sights to which foreign visitors are always taken.
Upon the occasion of our visit there were several clergymen present, more than one artist, and a number of ladies, amongst the latter being a placid looking Quaker, who, with hands folded before her, was calmly surveying the “creaturely activity” of the Howling enthusiasts.
We afterwards paid a visit to Miss Whateley’s Schools, at the British Mission. There are over 300 native children here, and we heard many of them read in English and French, and also do some exercises in translation. The girls were engaged in embroidering, reading, and writing, and they sang two hymns in Arabic while we stayed. Then we saw them muster for the recess, and a bright little fellow stepped out into the middle of the hall and repeated the Lord’s Prayer, first in English and then in Arabic, after which they went out in a most orderly manner. Miss Whateley seems much encouraged at the result of her many years’ labours; but I have no doubt she has had her times of discouragement. My wife visited an Arab school in Syria, the superintendent of which told her that after two years’ continuous labour amongst the people of his district, the result was so unsatisfactory that he was greatly discouraged and was inclined to abandon the mission. Calling the people together he told them of his disappointment, and said that although he had worked diligently amongst them for so long a time, they appeared to be no better than before, and that he felt that he must leave them. The people, who had received many benefits from him in various ways, began to be seriously alarmed, and entreated him to try them yet again. One man got up in the meeting and said, “Teacher, you must not go, you have made us much better. When you came first there was a woman living near who used to steal all the fowls in her neighbourhood, but now,” he said, “she only steals the eggs.” The superintendent’s features somewhat relaxed on hearing this, and the quick-witted Arabs immediately perceiving their advantage, renewed their appeals, a woman rising and saying, “Teacher, when you came first my neighbour’s son used to thrash his mother every day, but since he has been at your school he only thrashes her once a month.” The superintendent remained, and is well satisfied with the progress which has since been made.
In the afternoon we went for a drive in the Shubra Avenue, which is the Rotten Row of Cairo. The custom is to drive quickly up one side, returning slowly on the other, the drive occupying an hour. The Khedive drove past us in his carriage, preceded by two magnificent fellows (sais) whose duty it is to run in front of the carriage. They were dressed in gorgeous gold tissue waistcoats, long white skirts, a silk sash of many colours round the waist, a fez with long tassel, legs and feet bare, and in the hand a handsome staff. These men run quite as fast as the horses, keep up the pace for a couple of hours, and are employed to clear the crowded streets for the carriages. This they do by shouting loudly in a fine resonant voice, which is very effectual. The avenue was crowded with carriages, some of them containing ladies of the harem. Their carriages have windows all round.
Some of the ladies are shrouded as for burial; others leave only the eyes uncovered, while some (the prettiest, presumably) wear only thin gauze veils, through which their faces are plainly to be seen. All wear the same languishing expression, and appear to be very fond of peeping at the Europeans, and as we passed and repassed them they would recognise us with a smile, and then, to save appearances, turn away. When we passed the guard-house the soldiers turned out, thinking it was the Khedive’s carriage, and drew up in saluting order.
They were greatly disgusted on discovering their mistake. At four o’clock a general stampede of carriages, horsemen, runners, and pedestrians takes place, and the road is soon quite deserted.