Heliopolis was called Bethshemish by the Jews, and in Exodus is called ON. It was here that Joseph married Asenath, the daughter of Potipherah, and where Moses became learned in the wisdom of the Egyptians. Here Plato and Herodotus studied, and Josephus says—“The city was given to the Children of Israel as their residence when they came down into Egypt.” The obelisk, as we see it, was old when Abraham came into the country; but, notwithstanding its venerable age and intensely interesting associations, it has not been too sacred for tourists who have been caught chipping pieces off the edges.
After lunch we drove to Bûlak, an interesting suburb of Cairo. The houses are very old, and the street-scenes very curious and thoroughly Eastern in character. The large overhanging windows and casements familiar in pictures are everywhere to be seen, and now and then a glimpse of a female face is caught peeping furtively out at the passers-by. The streets are very narrow, and the coachman yells and shouts at the foot-passengers in his way, not scrupling to apply the whip to quicken their movements. All this is taken patiently—far too much so—and betrays the saddest side of Egyptian character, speaking volumes for the way in which the people have been treated.
Hard by was a curious sight. Standing against a wall, and raised above the level of the street like another Simon Stylites, was a strange-looking man, whose only raiment consisted of a sack, through a hole in which one arm was thrust. In his hand he held a small instrument like a garden-rake, with which he tortured his back, while his gaze “seemed upon the future bent.” Some irreverent tourists looking on were presently moved to laughter at the peculiar exhibition, upon which the holy man gave them one glance of wonder and pity, and then resumed his gaze into futurity.
It being fair-day, there were a large number of booths, cheap theatres, peep-shows, merry-go-rounds, etc., just as one sees in England. In another place was a story-teller, surrounded by an appreciative audience, who treated every “point” with loud laughter. It was curious to see how earnest and interested they all were, and the dramatic manner in which the story was told.
The National Museum for Egyptian antiquities, founded by Mariette Bey, is situated in Bûlak. Our time being short, we proposed paying it another visit, which, however, we were unfortunately unable to do. Much of the sculpture is really marvellous in its life-like character. One of the most remarkable statues is of wood, and is said to be 4,000 years old. It is admirably carved. There is also a large collection of jewellery, beads, enamels, etc.; chess and draughtboards, an artist’s paint-box and brushes, bread, eggs, fruit, pieces of well-made rope and thread; an axe of gilt bronze, having a gilt cedar-wood handle; a gold boat with twelve silver oarsmen, and many other curiosities. The museum is one of the most interesting sights in Egypt, and will well repay many visits.
In the evening some of our party took donkeys and a guide and returned to Bûlak to see some of the shows, but the first they visited was of so extraordinary a character they decided to see no more until their taste was educated up or down to the present Egyptian standard.
The railway journey from Cairo to Alexandria occupied about 6½ hours. The line crosses the Delta of the Nile, the country being very flat all the way.
The soil here is extremely fertile, and it was very interesting to watch the various agricultural operations as we rode along. We particularly noticed the many modes in which water is supplied to the land. Alongside the railway runs a stream issuing from the Nile, and the different holdings of land are bordered with little streamlets in place of hedges.
