Started up the right branch of the Samarahan to meet the San Poks, who were a primitive tribe, never yet visited by Europeans. We were detained several hours by the numerous obstructions in the river. At one place, a huge tree had fallen across, and rendered a passage impossible, except by dragging the boat over. We tried; but an ominous crack made us quickly push her back into the stream. We then with axes removed a portion of the trunk, and at last got safely over. We met a party of San Poks coming down the river, who returned with us. We did not reach their landing-place till three P.M. A very dirty walk of two miles brought us to their village-house, which was new: the tribe having but lately removed hither. The country we passed over was undulating, occasionally descending in abrupt ravines. The San Poks had chosen a low, cleared hill for their domicile. We were welcomed by a perfect storm of good wishes, seized on by a dozen women, who insisted on washing our feet, tying little bells round our wrists, and dancing before us enthusiastically. Very few could understand Malay. We inquired about the deer-grounds; but as these Dayaks are partial to deer’s-flesh, there was no game to be found in the neighbourhood.
The San Poks appeared mad with excitement; they danced, and drank, and beat their gongs and drums till daylight, affording us but snatches of slumber. Their ceremonies were exactly similar to those I have formerly described.
Turned our faces towards home. When we came to the Bukar branch, we entered a small Dayak canoe and paddled a short distance up to land near a spot where a hot spring was said to exist. We went ashore, and wandered on for about a mile, our guides evidently not quite certain of the path. At length we reached a small stream flowing through a flat tract of jungle—the soil a dark mud; tried it, and certainly it was very warm. Following its course, we came to the place where the water bubbled up from the ground through the black soil. The spring was about six feet by three where it issued from the earth, and supplied a shallow rill about a yard in breadth. The water we could see bubbling up through liquid mud. I tried to keep my feet in it, but it was far too hot, and left a burning sensation. A vapour rose above it, but the water had no perceptible taste or smell.
A few planks of an old boat that we found at this spot have given rise to a story among the Dayaks of an ancient ship being lost here when this lowland was covered by the sea. The planks evidently were part of a Sea Dayak boat, from the way they were cut, and were of a fine wood called marbau. They have been here for many years—perhaps this water has a preservative effect. The aborigines say that this spring is the work of evil spirits, and therefore will not approach it alone. We brought away a few bottles of it. It appeared a curious place to find a warm-water spring: no high land near; indeed, no rocks, but all an alluvial flat.
Fell down the river till night. We sent our men ashore in one place to examine a stone that was, as usual, in some way connected with spirits. We had it removed to Sarawak. It proved to be the representation of the female principle so common near Hindu temples: its necessary companion was not found, or, being more portable, had been removed, though formerly it was observed there.
There is but one more known material remnant of Hindu worship in these countries: it is a stone bull—an exact facsimile of those found in India. It is cut from a species of stone said not to be found in Sarawak: the legs and a part of the head have been knocked off. Its history is this: Many years ago, on being discovered in the jungle, the Malays and Dayaks removed it to the bank of the river, preparatory to its being conveyed to the town; but before it could be put into a prahu, they say, a tremendous storm of thunder and lightning, wind and rain, arose, which lasted thirty days. Fearing that the bull was angry at being disturbed in his forest home, they left him in the mud. When Sir James Brooke heard that this sacred bull was half-buried in the soil, he had it removed to his house. Several of the Dayak tribes sent deputations to him to express their fears of the evil consequences that would be sure to ensue—everything would go wrong, storms would arise, their crops be blighted, and famine would desolate the land. Humouring their prejudices, he answered, that they were mistaken, that the bull, on the contrary, would be pleased to be removed from the dirty place in which the Malays had left him, and that now he was kept dry and comfortable, they would find he would show no anger. They were satisfied with this reply and departed. Occasionally, some of the Dayaks will come and wash both of these Hindu relics, and bear away the water to fertilize their fields.
Among some of the aborigines there is a superstition that they must not laugh at a dog or at a snake crossing their path. Should they do so, they would become stones. These Dayaks always refer with respect and awe to some rocks scattered over the summit of a hill in Sadong, saying that they were originally men. The place was a very likely one to be haunted—noble old forest, but seldom visited. They tell the following story:—Many years ago, a great chief gave a feast there, in the midst of which his lovely daughter came in: she was a spoilt child, who did nothing but annoy the guests. They at first tried to get rid of her by mixing dirt with her food: finding she still teazed them for more, they gave her poison. Her father, in his anger, went back to his house, shaved his dog, and painted him with alternate streaks of black and white. Then giving him some intoxicating drink, he carried him in his arms into the midst of the assembly, and placed him on the ground. The dog began to caper about in the most ludicrous manner, which set all off laughing, the host as well the guests, and they were immediately turned into stone.
CHAPTER VIII.
THE MOUNTAIN OF KINA BALU.
FIRST EXPEDITION.
First Ascent by Mr. Low—Want of Shoes—Set Sail for the Tampasuk—Beautiful Scenery—The Abai—Manufacture of Nipa Salt—Uses of the Nipa Palm—A Lanun Chief—Baju Saddle—Baju a Non-walker—Our ride to the Tampasuk—Gigantic Mango Trees—The Datu’s House—Its Arrangements—The Datu and his People—Piratical Expedition—A Bride put up to Auction—The Bajus—Mixed Breeds—Quarrels with the Lanuns—Effect of Stealing Ida’an Children—Fable of the Horse and his Rider—Amount of Fighting Men—Freedom of the Women—Killing the Fatted Calf—Beautiful Prospect—A new Gardinia—Pony Travelling—Difficulty of procuring Useful Men—Start—An Extensive Prospect—Cocoa-nuts and their Milk—A View of Kina Balu—Granite Debris—Our Guides—Natives Ploughing—Our Hut—Division of Land—Ginambur—Neatest Village-house in the Country—Its Inhabitants—Tatooing—Curiosity—Blistered Feet—Batong—Granite Boulders—Fording—Fish-traps—Tambatuan—Robbing a Hive—Search for the Youth-restoring Tree—Our Motives—Appearance of the Summit of Kina Balu—A long Story—Swimming the River—Koung—Palms not plentiful—Lanun Cloth—Cotton—Nominal Wars—The Kiladi—Attempt to Levy Black-mail at the Village of Labang Labang—Resistance—Reasons for demanding it—Bamboo flat-roofed Huts—Ingenious Contrivance—Kiau—Dirty Tribe—Recognition of Voice—A Quarrel—Breaking the Barometer—Opposition to the Ascent of Kina Balu—Harmless Demonstration—Thieves—Mr. Low unable to Walk—Continue the Expedition alone—Cascade—Prayers to the Spirit of the Mountain—Flowers and Plants—Beautiful Rhododendrons—Cave—Unskilful Use of the Blow-pipe—Cold—Ascent to the Summit—Granite Face—Low’s Gully—Noble Terrace—Southern Peak—Effect of the Air—The Craggy Summit—Distant Mountain—Dangerous Slopes—Ghostly Inhabitants—Mist—Superstitions—Collecting Plants—Descent—Noble Landscape—Difficult Path—Exhaustion—Mr. Low not Recovered—Disagreeable Villagers—Recovering the Brass Wire—Clothing—Distrust—A lively Scene—Our Men behave well—Return on Rails to the Datu’s House.
