At Koung we vainly endeavoured to obtain a buffalo, on which Mr. Low might ride; but the villagers showed no inclination to assist. So next morning we pushed on through heavy rain to the village of Tambatuan, where the Tampasuk becomes a little more fit for rafts. I was glad to see Mr. Low safely there, and then, as the rafts would not hold us all, I walked on with the men. The heavy rain had caused the river to swell, and the walking and the fording were doubly difficult, but we continued our course, and in two days reached the village of Ginambur, and joining Mr. Low on the raft, pursued our journey to the Datu’s house.
Next day to the Abai; but contrary winds prevented our reaching Labuan for five days.
We were not quite satisfied with the results of this expedition, and determined to start again, but choosing another route, the same followed by Mr. Low in 1851.
CHAPTER IX.
SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALU.
Cholera in Brunei—Start from Labuan—Coal Seams—View of Tanjong Kubong—Method of working the Coal—Red Land—Method of cultivating Pepper—Wild Cattle—The Pinnace—Kimanis Bay—Inland Passage—Kimanis River—Cassia—Trade in it stopped—Smooth River—My first View of Kina Balu—Story of the Death of Pangeran Usup—Anchor—Papar—A Squall—Reach Gaya Bay—Noble Harbour—Pangeran Madoud—My first Visits to him—Method of making Salt—Village of Menggatal—Ida’an—His Fear of them—Roman Catholic Mission—Cholera—Mengkabong—Manilla Captives—The Salt-water Lake—Head-quarters of the Bajus—Their Enterprise—Find Stranded Vessels—Tripod Masts—Balignini Pirates—Their Haunts—Spanish Attack—Great Slaughter—Savage-looking Men—Great Tree—Unreasoning Retaliation—Energy of M. Cuarteron—Lawlessness of the Bajus—Pangeran Duroup, the Governor—Anecdote of a drifting Canoe—Inhospitable Custom—Origin of the Bajus—Welcome by Pangeran Sirail—Love of Whiskey overcomes Prejudice—Night Weeping—A Market—The Datu of Tamparuli—The Pangeran’s Enthusiasm—Path to the Tawaran—Fine Scene—Fruit Groves—Neat Gardens—The Tawaran—Sacred Jars—The Talking Jar—Attempted Explanation—Efficacy of the Water—Carletti’s Account—Fabulous Value—The Loveliest Girl in Borneo—No Rice—Advance to Bawang—Our Guides—Steep Hill—Extensive View—Si Nilau—Unceremonious Entry into a House—The Nilau Tribe—Kalawat Village—Tiring Walk—Desertion of a Negro—Numerous Villages—Bungol Village Large—Deceived by the Guide—Fatiguing Walk—Koung Village—Black Mail—Explanation—Friendly Relations established—Labang Labang Village—Change of Treatment—Kiau Village—Warm Reception—Houses—No Rice—Confidence.
In June, 1858, the cholera which had been slowly advancing towards us from the south, suddenly burst upon Brunei with extreme violence, and laid the city in mourning. From day to day the deaths increased in number; every house flew white streamers, which showed cholera was there present; pious processions paraded the town, the mosques were crowded, all merriment at an end, though religious chants were heard from every boat; there was fear, but no panic, and the sick were cared for by their relations. The deaths were awfully sudden, one of my servants at work at five, was dead by eleven. My house was crowded by anxious parents seeking medicine, which was soon all distributed, and no one thought of business, attention being only given to this fearful scourge.
Mr. Low and I had determined to make another attempt to ascend Kina Balu in August, but fearing that if the cholera spread along the coast before we reached our point of debarkation, the Dusuns and Ida’an might prevent our passing through their villages, we resolved to anticipate the appointed time, and sailed from Labuan early in July, and in a few hours passed Tanjong Kubong, near the northern point of the island, where the best coal seams are situated. The view from the sea is very picturesque: two hills, grass-covered, with the dark outlines of the forest in the rear, and a valley between, sloping upwards, showing, at one glance, the works of the coal company. On a bold rocky bluff is the manager’s house, overlooking the open sea, with a clear view of the great mountain. It is to be regretted that there is no good anchorage in the north-east monsoon off this point, as it necessitates a railway of seven miles being carried through the island to the splendid harbour of Victoria. However, should this work be undertaken, it is very possible it may be the means of opening out the other veins which are known to exist in the centre of the island. The coal seams of Tanjong Kubong are perhaps as fine as any in the world; and it is probable that the failures in developing them have arisen from applying the same means of working the mine as are used in England, forgetting that the fall of rain is four times as great. Labuan ought to supply all the farther East with coal, and may yet do so, under judicious management.
Passing on, we steered clear of the Pine shoals, and directed our course to Pulo Tiga, an island so called from the three undulating hills that form its surface. It is quite uninhabited, except occasionally by a few fishermen or traders, seeking water there. On its broad sandy beaches turtle are said to congregate, and here we have picked up some very pretty shells, particularly olives. The coast between Labuan and Nosong point, at the entrance of Kimanis Bay, consists of low hills only partly cleared. At one place there are some bluff, red-looking points called Tanah Merah, or Red Land, and near it are many villages of Bisayas, who are engaged in planting pepper. Their gardens are said to be very neatly kept, and the system, which has descended to them from the former Chinese cultivators, is far superior to that pursued in Sumatra. There the Malays allow the vines to twine round the quick-growing Chingkariang tree, whose roots must necessarily absorb much of the nourishment; but here they plant them in open ground, and train them up iron-wood posts, thus preserving to them all the benefit of the manure they may apply to enrich the soil. Although the Bisayas are not careful cultivators, yet they prepare heaps of burnt earth and decaying weeds to place round the stems of the vines before they commence flowering.
Along this beach, herds of wild cattle are often seen wandering, particularly on bright moonlight nights, in search, most probably, of salt, which they are so fond of licking. All the natives declare that the species found here is smaller than those monsters I saw up the Limbang and Baram. It is very likely there may be two kinds.
A pleasant S.W. breeze carried us rapidly along this coast. Our craft, though not famous for its sailing qualities, ran well before the wind. It was a small yacht, belonging to the Eastern Archipelago Company, the same which we used when we went to Abai in the spring. Dr. Coulthard had put himself to some inconvenience in lending it to us, as he was obliged to content himself with a native-built boat of mine, that was called by the ominous name of the “Coffin,” and on one occasion nearly proved to be one to the obliging doctor. I myself had great faith in that boat, as it had taken me safely through many a hard blow.