Hornbills are seen round mountains, and sparrows abound in grassy plains near the sea; some species are now and then abundant, as a white crane (padi bird, or Kanawei), and various kinds of curlew (pimpin), but on the whole, birds are rare. In some districts pheasants and partridges are caught in snares, but as they are birds which merely run along the surface of the ground, flying being almost out of the question in the thick underwood, they are only noticed when brought in by the natives. Monkeys in the northern part of Borneo are also rarely observed. In the Limbang river I have seen but few: an occasional baboon, a few wawahs in the Madalam branch, and a large reddish monkey at about 1,000 feet up Molu. At Kina Balu I do not remember any. In Sarawak, however, they are plentiful.
Pigs are very numerous here, and wild cattle and deer are also abundant. We have as yet seen no traces of alligators, though in the Madalam branch they are said to abound, and last spring I saw a very large one; it was a disgusting-looking object, a great fat slimy-looking thing,—a tail stuck on a hogshead. They are not, however, dreaded, as they can obtain a very plentiful supply of food from the pigs which constantly swim from bank to bank. Otherwise, it would be unpleasant to have to steer a boat, as the man-devouring reptile strikes his victim from the stern with a blow of his tail. This happened to an unfortunate Malay in the Siol branch of the Sarawak, who was pulling up that river with his wife in a small canoe.
The death of this man drew attention to the monster alligator I have previously referred to, and Mr. Crookshank and Sadam, a very courageous Malay, went down to place a bait on the banks of the Siol. When this was done, they pulled back, Mr. Crookshank steering. They had seen nothing of their enemy, so that Sadam jumped up, and, flourishing his spear, began in a loud voice to defy the alligator, using very insulting terms. Suddenly he dropt his weapon and seizing his paddle, began pulling away with might and main, for the animal had just risen to the surface of the water not twenty yards from the boat.
Though the steersman’s position was by no means an agreeable one, Mr. Crookshank could not help laughing at the change of countenance of his companion, who excused himself by saying it was the suddenness of his challenge being accepted that made him pull away in an excited manner. “But now,” he added, rising to his feet, “let him show himself again, and I will not attempt to run.” He had scarcely uttered the words, when the alligator, which was accustomed to follow boats, again rose to the surface. There was no more boasting, but a frantic attempt to get out of the Siol branch.
The alligator took the bait, but got rid of the long rattan fastened to it, by accidentally or purposely winding it round a tree, then breaking it off. However, though his body was not secured, it was most probable he died from the lacerations of the stomach caused by his endeavours to break the rattan, as I have not heard of his being seen since. It was up the Siol branch that a place was found where the body of one of his victims appeared to have been beaten, to break the bones, previously to swallowing. The Malays say the alligators do it by repeated blows of their ponderous head; in fact, one of the large teeth of the reptile was found snapped off on the above-mentioned spot.
As I have told the story of Sadam’s alarm at the sudden appearance of the alligator, I ought in justice to him, to mention an occurrence which took place last year. He and his brother Dand were wandering near Tanjong Po, a rocky point near the entrance of the Sarawak river, when they came to a cave; hearing some movement inside, they entered, and saw two huge alligators at the farther end. Knowing that these ferocious reptiles are not very active, except on soft mud, or in the water, they determined to attack them. They were armed with spears and swords, and entering the cave, Sadam approached the first beast, and actively springing clear to avoid its rush, drove his spear into the soft side, and with his brother’s aid soon severed the head from its body. Encouraged by their success they advanced to attack the second, which was vainly endeavouring to escape over the broken rocks, and soon succeeded in destroying it.
I was conversing one day with a French priest who had resided many years in Siam, and he told me he had seen men there catch the alligator in the following manner:—In the upper Menam, where the river is broad and shallow, but with deep pools occasionally, the alligators are both numerous and fierce; yet the inhabitants, who are very fond of eating the flesh, pursue them with great courage and skill. Six or seven men proceed to a pool where one of these reptiles is supposed to lurk, and with long poles, sound every portion of it; if an animal be there he is soon disturbed, and driven towards the shallower part of the river, even to the sandbanks, where expert men throw their lassoes round his feet and tail. When they think him somewhat exhausted, a bold hunter, springing on the alligator’s back, places his hands over the creature’s eyes, which then always remains quiet. A noose is quickly slipped over his head, and the animal hauled ashore.
Alligators lay their eggs in the jungle. I remember hearing the late Mr. Brereton tell the following story: He was one day hunting in the jungle near the Sakarang fort, when his dogs gave tongue. He followed up quickly, and found they had disturbed a female alligator laying her eggs. Directly she saw him, she gave chase, and he had some difficulty in getting away from her, though the dogs distracted her attention.
Alligators very seldom attack boats, but a case occurred in the Sambas river, where a man was dragged out of a large prahu from among twenty of his companions. My own party was never in danger from them but once, when a large alligator rose within three feet of the boat; but before he could do anything, I had put a rifle-ball into his side, as I happened at that moment to be looking out for a shot at them on the mud banks.
Having stopped so early, we had plenty of leisure-time on our hands; and being seated on a pretty pebbly bank, I commenced a game of ducks and drakes in the water, in which I was soon joined by the whole party—it afforded them great amusement. I may here remark that you may allow this kind of freedom with your native followers, without their ever taking advantage of it another time. If they see you inclined to chat, or to amuse yourself with them, they are delighted; if you desire to be quiet, they never disturb you by any intrusion or undue familiarity.