During our progress up this river we have kept very much along the banks, and have had to take great care not to shake snakes into our boat. These reptiles are constantly found concealed amid the foliage of fruit-trees, or lying quietly along the branches to catch unwary birds which seek their food there. In fact, their colours so much resemble those of the trees, that it is often difficult to distinguish them. Musa one day pointed to a tree and said, “There is a large snake.” I could not see it, but on his pointing to it with his sword, I noticed a brown creature thicker than my arm, coiled round a bough, with its head resting near a bunch of fruit, waiting the arrival of some unwary Pargam, the splendid green pigeon of these forests. It looked exactly of the colour of the bough on which it was resting, and the green snakes are equally difficult to detect. There is one with large regular scales, and a triangular head, which is the dread of the native, and if its poisonous qualities equal its offensive look, it must be a venomous one indeed. These unpleasant neighbours are, however, rarely seen, though pretty green flower snakes may be occasionally noticed among the bushes, or gliding over the blossoms on the look out for insects. One of a bright green with yellow stripes down its sides is no doubt a beautiful object, but I dislike snakes of every kind. My men, who appear to have as strong an antipathy to them, cut at them on every occasion with their swords.
Land tortoises are continually dropping from the overhanging trunks of trees as they hear the noise of our paddles. We were once much startled by a large animal springing from a high bough, and falling with a heavy splash within a few feet of our boat: it turned out to be a huge biawak, or guana, which, being alarmed, thus made his escape. The guana is a species of lizard, growing to a great length, and is the enemy of our poultry. My dogs once killed one in Brunei which measured six feet six inches in length. The whole pack attacked it; and while it was endeavouring to save its tail, a bold dog seized it by the throat, and held it tight, while the rest of the pack destroyed it. It is the only instance I have known of dogs facing so large a biawak; but they were of English breed, and all were ultimately killed by their unwary attacks on the wild pigs.
The biawaks used very often to pay us a visit at Sarawak, as there was an extensive poultry yard, and their presence in the day-time was always announced by the loud cackling of the fowls; if it were a small one, the cocks and hens would gather round it, and make feigned attacks upon it, and the beast, almost bewildered by the cries of the circle of enemies, would raise its head high and take a survey of them, as if choosing which he should seize. We once succeeded in approaching almost close to one, thinking we could catch him, as the ground was free from brushwood, but it quickly outran us, disappearing down a neighbouring ravine. The Chinese are very fond of its flesh, considering it very delicate eating.
I have also often been disturbed by the cackling of the fowls, and going to discover the cause, have found them attacking a snake which has unwarily ventured in their neighbourhood. I one day saw about twenty large Cochin cocks and hens surrounding some object, and approaching near, saw it was a fine cobra, about six feet in length. The reptile had its head raised nearly a foot, and was making slight darts at the fowls which ventured near, but unable to do much, for as soon as it attempted to move, several pecks were made at its tail. A friend who was standing near, knocked the snake on the head, and immediately all the inhabitants of the poultry-yard set upon it and tore it to pieces.
After nine hours’ severe poling and hauling, we came to a stop for the night at 4.25 p.m. I was desirous to reach the Madihit, but the men were too exhausted to proceed farther. We have not had a bearing of Molu for some time; we are anxious for it, in order to determine our position. I got out all the salt fish that was left, and divided it among the men, to whom it was most acceptable, as they had had nothing but rice for many days.
After we had finished our supper, I called the whole party together to discuss our future proceedings. I explained to them the information I had been enabled to collect from the Muruts; that we might reach the Adang landing-place by water, but that as we advanced the country became more difficult; and that, in the present state of the river, it was impracticable to face the rapids; that if we attempted the water way and failed, we must return home, as it was quite impossible to walk along its bank; the hills were too lofty and far too steep; in fact, no one would ever attempt it who knew anything of the country. The second plan was to ascend the Madihit, which could not be very far off—a mile or two—then leave our boats, and walk across, the Murut guides assuring us that we could do the distance in seven days. I put it to the whole party to consider. Musa, after a short consultation, said they would prefer walking to facing even seven days of such work as we had had; and as it was two or three days from the Adang landing-place to the houses, it was better to start at once from the Madihit, leaving the principal portion of our heavy baggage with the boats. My heart was slightly despondent yesterday, but to-day’s progress has completely cheered me up.
Just at sunset, we noticed a few flying foxes far up in the sky; they seemed very numerous, but were almost beyond view. Sometimes, however, they fly low, pursuing their onward course with steady flapping wings. For two hours I watched them at the entrance of the Sibuyau river, passing us by tens of thousands, and all flying in one direction, doubtless towards some place where they rest at night. While preparing their tents, my men disturbed a huge frog that appeared about nine inches long; it was of a dark gray colour. I was assured, however, that a full-grown frog was double this size, and if one could judge of their dimensions by their noise, when they are heard in a marsh, one might readily believe the Muruts’ account. I remember hearing the late Mr. Hayes of Siam say that he had seen them there with bodies as large as a full-sized dinner plate.
8th.—We found the Madihit to be two miles farther up on the left bank. The main stream continues broad, and is furnished with islands and immense pebbly flats, reminding me of the portion near the Madalam at very low water. The hills are now at some distance apart, allowing broader and flatter strips of cultivatable land along the banks. Our last night’s resting-place was quite a level point; we brought up a little above it, under a jutting portion of the bank, which was higher, and near it was a beautiful natural bower which would have afforded shelter for all our boats, had the stream risen high; some of the men encamped in it. The Madihit, a short distance from the mouth, is but a shallow, pebbly torrent; and a little more than half a mile up we were obliged to leave our large garei, and take to the sampirs, most of the men following along the banks; and now, less than two miles farther, we have to leave our boats, and take to walking.
We noticed a very handsome tree, whose trunk shoots out almost horizontally from the banks: its branches rise perpendicularly into the air, but let fall on either side rows of long drooping twigs, covered with elegant foliage. It was loaded with fruit, whose long wings are of a beautiful pink colour, and amid this forest it had a gorgeous effect. I believe it is of the order Dipterocarpæ. There is another very remarkable one which grows on rocky soil; its bark strips naturally from the trunk, leaving a brightish brick-red stem.
We have passed yesterday and to-day much young jungle; indeed, except where the hills are steep, there are few old trees. The fish are very plentiful in the river, but the rapidity of the stream prevents the net from acting properly. Just before entering the Madihit, I noticed a range of high hills, bearing south-east, said to be called the Paya Paya in Malay, the very difficult hills, and round their base the Limbang ran.