I am afraid our provisions are drawing to a close. I see some hungry looks and other symptoms of uncomfortableness among about half the men—all their own fault. The careful have still two days’ rice; three, if they did not assist their companions: the greedy ones have been trusting to my biscuits. However, as I could not sit down to my dinner of plain boiled rice with so many envying me, I told my servant to take sufficient for ourselves, and then divide the remainder of the biscuits into twenty-three heaps. I remembered Galton’s plan, and making one of the men turn his back to the little piles, I pointed to a heap, and he cried out a name; so that they were fairly and without favour distributed.
The non-careful men were very disappointed with this plan; they thought I should have only given those that had no rice a share, but that I explained to them would be encouraging improvidence. A similar thing occurred when I lost my boat at Molu. The men, rather than carry rice, preferred trusting to jungle produce, vainly hoping we could do three days’ work in one. We are encamped on the Urud, a tributary of the Limbang. The highest point crossed to-day was 2,500 feet: our present elevation is about 1,400 feet, after many ups and downs. One of the most melancholy sounds in the forest is the cry of the wahwah, and after sunset it sounded near us, to be answered by a disconsolate companion not very far off.
15th.—An hour’s walk brought us to the Limbang, whose bed is here, perhaps, seventy yards wide, very shallow, not reaching to the hip. It flowed from the Siliñgid mountains, and is said, after skirting their western face, to turn to the south-east to its sources in Lawi. Si Nuri, one of our guides, pretended to hear a bad bird, and wanted to return, though we were all struggling against the stream in the middle of the river. As this was the second time he had done it to-day, I would not stand it, so ordered him over; however, to satisfy timid minds, I had the guns discharged, cleaned, and reloaded. He said his añgei (omen bird) told him there was fighting at his house. We then continued to Suñgei Kapaw, where we stopped to eat our breakfast. The old chief’s son was very much astonished by the rapidity and accuracy of fire of one of the revolving carbines. He had never seen any fire-arms, unless they were common flint muskets.
Shortly after again starting, I observed a commotion among the guides, and was told that the new man and Si Nuri, his brother-in-law, wanted us to take a roundabout way, to avoid a country swarming, they said, with enemies, who would shoot at us from the jungle. This would entail the loss of another day, and the climbing of an extra high mountain. We preferred the enemies to the extra work, as our food will be all finished to-morrow; so the two guides left us, and one of the remaining Adang men undertook to find a road. It struck me afterwards that it was merely a dispute about whose house we should go to first. The Orang Kaya Upit and four followers wanted naturally to go to their relatives, while Si Nuri was anxious to get as quickly as possible to see his wife and relations; but as he could speak little Malay, I did not understand his explanation.
Our new guide, turning north for a short time, soon brought us to the Ropo, a branch of the Limbang, which is, perhaps, a third less than the main stream. From thence we continued our course north, climbing up a steep mountain, about 2,500 feet in height; then turning to the north-east, we continued that course till 4.10 p.m., when we reached the Bapangal stream. Including all stoppages and petty rests, we walked about six hours and a half, and made about eight miles. From near the summit of the high hill we had a view of some fresh clearings which appeared about seven miles off in a north-east direction. The villages are said to be on the other side of the clearings, beyond a low hill. As we must have approached these farms three miles, we cannot have more than eight miles of walking before us; at all events, I shall do my utmost to reach the houses to-morrow night, whether the men follow or not, as after the biscuit division last night I have only rice for to-morrow, coffee, and the remains of a bad China ham. Just as we were crossing the Ropo, an animal slipt quietly into the water, which I think was an otter. A few days before leaving my house, I was witness of a desperate fight between my dogs and a very fierce female otter. They had surrounded a pool, and kept her in it, but as it was very shallow a dog would dash in and make a snap at her; at last she seized one by the nose, and would not let go; the dog, a very small English terrier, did not utter a cry, but struggled towards the bank, when the whole pack fell upon the enemy, and tore it to pieces. Yet in death, it did not let go its hold, and to free the dog’s nose its jaws had to be forced open with a spear-head. (Resting-place 1,300 feet.)
16th.—Walking on till 4.30, after eight hours of regular hard work, we have not reached the Adang villages, but have a prospect of doing so to-morrow. We have only the range of mountains to cross: yesterday’s clearings and low hills we have passed. When at 4.30 I sat down on a rock, with the rain pouring down in torrents, and the men standing shivering around me, I could not but feel a little despondent when I asked the guide where were the houses, and he replied over that high mountain: but observing the men were watching me, I burst out laughing, a very unnatural sound it seemed, and said I thought the Adang dwellings had vanished in the clouds.
Presently the Orang Kaya Upit came stealing back and said he had found two fresh huts that belonged to a Murut tribe with whom they were at war, that we must instantly retrace our steps half a mile at least, and pitch our tents there. I was in a very bad mood to receive such a proposition and told him that if the devil himself lived in those huts, I would make him give me a share of them to-night, and told him to lead the way. Tired as he was, I could scarcely persuade him that I was in earnest; but, calling on my Malays to follow, we soon made an advance towards the dreaded spot, and then, after twice attempting to lead us astray, the Orang Kaya brought us to the huts, which had evidently not been vacated many hours; perhaps after they had got a distinct view of our party. The ashes of the fires were still warm, and we had no difficulty in rekindling them.
As the rain continued to descend in torrents, we were pleased indeed to find warm dry quarters, and having extended the tent from one of the huts, there was room for all. As old Japer and four of the men had not reached us by half-past five, we discharged our fire-arms one after the other to give them notice of our whereabouts, in case they were wandering within hearing. It likewise served the purpose of intimating to the Muruts concealed about that we were not head-hunters, these seeking concealment and not publicity. My best men having assisted the improvident have but a poor meal to-night. Our walk to-day was over very uneven ground, steep hills and numerous streams, among others the true Adang. The last candle is going out, so I finish.
17th. and 18th.—My journal did not reach me till this evening, so I must enter the two days together. Japer did not make his appearance during the night. At dawn, finding I had a small biscuit a-man left, I shared them out, and then started off at 6.30, hoping to reach the houses, and from thence send assistance to the stragglers. I gave notice that I expected no man to wait for his neighbour, but to push on and do the best he could for himself. Our route at first lay over the low ground that skirts the foot of the mountain, then up a tolerably easy ascent, one of the spurs of the Adang range, that appears to run north and south. After half an hour’s walking, I observed the guides dart to an old tree; I followed, and we were soon occupied in devouring mushrooms; after this slight repast, we continued our course.
About 10 a.m. four of the Muruts dropped their heavy burdens, intending to return for them next day, and started off at a running pace. I was following when I heard Ahtan’s soft voice say, “May I come too, sir?” I said, “Yes, if you can keep up.” This was very well for a few hundred yards; when, to my surprise, I found a Murut drop behind, then the Orang Kaya; at last the remaining guide stretched himself on his back, and said he was done up. I tried all I could to rouse them, but with no effect, until the arrival of the fifth Murut, who was one of the baggage train, with half a ham, the last of the provisions, and not good food unsoaked, without a drop of water for miles, but I told the Muruts that if they would try and reach the top of the mountain I would then cook and divide it.