Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 2 of 2)

by Sir Spenser St. John

T. Picken, lith.

Day & Son, Lith^rs. to the Queen.

Published by Smith, Elder & C^o. 65, Cornhill, London.

MURUT BRIDGE—TABARIS VILLAGE.

These people say that they are not Adangs, but the original inhabitants of the country, intermarried, however, with the fugitive tribe, and speaking the same language. They may be people of the lower Trusan, but I doubt if they have long been settled here: there are no fruit-trees nor ancient clearings around them, no sign, in fact, but of a rather recent settlement.

I am promised a sight of the great mountain of Lawi to-morrow. There is some talk of our returning a new way; I shall not object if I can get my baggage brought on, as I like to pass over fresh ground, and I may be able to get some bearing of Molu, which I have not done since I left the Limbang.

I forget whether I have mentioned it before, but there is a scheme on foot of which the Orang Kaya Upit is the originator, and he quotes me as his great authority. It is this: that the Sultan should allow a fort to be established at the entrance of the Madalam, to be held by the Orang Kaya, to stop the expeditions of the Kayans; then that the whole of the inhabitants of the interior of the Trusan should move over and farm between the Madalam and Madihit. There can be no doubt that it would be a good thing both for Brunei and the Muruts, as the Borneans would get rice cheap, and the Adangs be able to supply themselves with goods; few wear anything but bark now, and as on the Limbang there are both wax and camphor, and innumerable rattans, they would have no difficulty in purchasing cloths, which they already prize. The Muruts would be too far off to be oppressed, but near enough to trade. The Shabandar, however, dreads anything like combination among the Muruts, and would particularly object to their getting beyond his reach.

Deers’ horns are plentiful in this house. Ahtan has just counted forty-three used as pegs; the skins of bears, as well as those of the rimau dahan are also numerous, nearly every man having a jacket of them. The men evidently hunt a great deal; their dogs are all sleek and well fed, and I intend buying a couple to take down the river with us.

There is apparently always something new to notice in these tribes. I never before saw the following ceremony: twenty-four girls and boys, with a few grown women, are walking up and down the verandah, chanting, “Woh, weh, woh, Isana,” mourning for the son of the chief, who has just been wounded up country. They march in Indian file, their arms resting on the shoulders of the person in front; it appears to be a mere ceremony, there being very little grief in the tone. At first I thought it might be connected with the heavy rain and crashing thunderstorm that is now raging outside, preventing any attempt at conversation. This promises us a rapid if safe return, as we have had rain at night for the last few days.

These people wear many rings of lead up the rim of the ear, as I noticed among the wax gatherers.