28th.—On to Si Lopong’s. I found that even Murut arrack is a very bad assistant to exertion. I stayed this night at the house preparatory to a start in the morning. We are in great hopes that some of the Muruts will walk with us as far as the spot where we intend to construct rafts, and thus give us a good stock of provisions to commence operations upon; but nothing could be arranged on account of Si Lopong’s absence. In the evening he came home, and immediately brought out two basins of arrack, one of which he handed to me, and said we must drink in remembrance of our friendship. Having complied with his desire, I began to enter into our business, but before I could utter a dozen words he lay back on his mat and was fast asleep. He had arrived drunk, as no doubt, at every village, he had been feasted; and the last bowl of arrack was the night-cap. Seeing that it was hopeless to attempt to wake him, I put off our conversation till the morning.
The men I had left behind I found tolerably recovered, and all were ready for a start; that is, if anybody could be found to carry the baggage. Most of the guides had given up their intention to return: Si Nuri intended to spend a month or two with his first wife; Kadayan was kept by his family, and Luñgenong would not start without the Orang Kaya Upit; so that unless I wait here some time, we must trust entirely to ourselves. The way to the Adang is not very difficult to find. Waking during the night, I heard some sounds almost as musical as those produced by a bagpipe; it came from a Murut near at hand, who was perhaps serenading his mistress. I examined the instrument he used, and it was very simple to produce so many notes. Two thin bamboos, about twelve inches long, were fastened very neatly side by side; in one was cut four holes like those in a flute, while the other had a long piece of grass inserted in the lower end. A slight incision was then cut across both towards the upper portion. The performer thrust this instrument rather deep into his mouth and blew, and then, with the aid of tongue, fingers, and moving the grass, produced some very agreeable and wild tunes. I watched him for some time as he sat by the side of a flickering fire, but being tired, it at last lulled me to sleep.
29th.—Si Lopong is naturally very unwilling to start without his relation, the Orang Kaya Upit; he says that he cannot be many days, as he has only to wait for the return of the party of Main Muruts, who have gone to fetch him some slaves. This settles the question, and I start without guides. Unfortunately, the Orang Kaya has with him the hunting dogs I purchased at Tabari’s. Our intention is to walk to the Adang River, and construct rafts on which to float down the stream. The Muruts have always warned us that it is too full of cataracts, rapids, and huge rocks, to be descended by rafts, and that, if they fail us, the country is impassable; but my men are eager to try the easy method of returning, and I am desirous of following the course of the Limbang.
6 p. m.—We got away at 9 a.m. I explained to my men that I would not allow our guides to bring slaves into our party; that all the shame of the transaction would fall on me; and that if the Orang Kaya attempted it, I would take away his boat, and let him find his way home overland. There was rice of ours sufficient for a month’s consumption, and I strongly advised the men to remember how they had suffered in their former land journey. They all promised to take twelve or fourteen days’ provisions, and I took eighteen days’, dividing it among all the men, each to carry a day’s rice for me.
We found the Adang range a very stiff climb, and before we reached the top I had to relieve Musa of his double barrel, he was carrying so heavy a load. At the stream we met two hunters, and endeavoured to persuade them to lend us a hand for one day, but we could not bribe them. It is astonishing what habit will do. A young girl, not above thirteen, came part of the way with us to assist in carrying a relation’s burden, and she walked up that steep mountain, comparatively with the most perfect ease. I here found some of those beautiful Anœctochilus which Mr. Low wanted. I collected about a dozen, all I could see, and put them into a tin pepper-box, with holes in the top, to try whether they would keep. They are the most breathtaking plants I have ever seen, with leaves through which lines of gold, or white, or bright red run, forming a lovely pattern. I have been shown some of the very plants I collected, now growing luxuriantly in England, and they are the most delicate looking ornaments for a hot-house.
After much exertion, we got about half way down the western face of the Adang range, the rain pouring heavily; so at five p.m. we came to a stop and pitched our tents.
30th.—The rain still continued, but we pushed on by the old path till we came to a small stream, called the Batu Loba, where we found some freshly constructed huts. After bathing, I felt very feverish, and taking a dose of quinine, a large basin of rice-water, and wrapping myself up in all the dry clothing I had, I burst into a profuse perspiration. It was not a very agreeable night for me. I lay in my tent alone: the men, except Musa, who watched over me, preferring the hunters’ huts, as the floor was there dry, and they had no time to make a raised floor in the tent for themselves, as they did for me.
The rain was coming down in torrents, which presently increased to a terrific thunderstorm. The wind did not affect us much, we were too low, in a hollow; but I thought if this really be fever, what a prospect for me in this forest. I called Musa, and made every necessary arrangement in case I should be delirious in the morning: that two or three men should stay with me, and the rest go back to the houses; that if I grew worse, the Muruts might be engaged to carry me to their village; and that when I recovered, we should go home by the Trusan, abandoning the boats, instruments, and everything.
I need scarcely say how joyful we all were, when in the morning I got up without any fever, and only a little weakened by the slight attack. I thought at the time that it might be from over-fatigue, as I had not only carried all my instruments and arms, but had assisted others. Some one during the night must have been amusing himself with my revolver, as shortly after starting, on withdrawing it from its cover, I found the chamber gone, rendering the weapon useless till our arrival at the boats, where I had left a spare one; so I gave up the carbine, and took to my double-barrel.
October 1st.—Continued by the old path to the Adang; hitting it, however, a little to the northward of the point where we previously crossed it. Here we prepared to make the rafts on which we intend to continue our journey. We found plenty of material—light wood, bamboos, and rattans, &c.; so we encamped on a pebbly bank, the men hoping to be soon joined by the Muruts. During our walk to-day, while following the ridge of the Batu Put hills, we observed on its summit two large boulders, one some twenty-five feet in length. They appeared to be granite, but I could not break off a piece. They bear that rather immodest name from the following legend:—That a famous chief of yore, disdaining to make his nuptial-couch on the grass, fetched up these huge stones to sleep on; and they point to some marks as the impression made by his bride’s limbs, which, without much stretch of fancy, might be taken for the mould of a foot and leg.