Balambañgan is admirably situated to command the China seas; however, if its position be superior to Labuan, the latter has coal to counterbalance that advantage. While strolling along the beach we came upon the tracks of cattle, deer, and pigs, and another party from the ship had the good fortune to secure a large supply of excellent fish with the seine. This island, as well as the neighbouring coast of the mainland, appears to swarm with game; I landed on the latter, and found an extensive open plain, diversified with a few low eminences, backed by some cleared hills, and there the tracks of wild cattle, deer, and pigs were innumerable. The rhinoceros is also reported to be occasionally seen, but we came across no traces of it.
Continuing our voyage, we passed the island of Banguey, in the northern part of which there are fine peaked hills, with inhabitants, and plenty of good water, therefore far preferable to Balambañgan for a settlement; as if the harbours be not good, there is sufficient shelter against both monsoons.
The next island is Mali Wali, and here we anchored to examine it. We tried at many places, but found the little creeks shallow and lined with mangrove swamps; but by landing on the south side, at the east end of the stone beach, there is but a few minutes’ walk in dry forest between the shore and the cleared land. The appearance of the island is remarkable; for miles the hills apparently are clothed with grass, with only a narrow belt of jungle skirting the shingly beach; the reality, however, disappointed us, as we found that this verdant-looking land was but a heap of soft sandstone, with long coarse grass growing up between the crevices. However, there is a good supply of clear water from tiny streams and springs, and the tracks of deer were observed in many places, while on all sides a species of wild jasmine grew in luxuriance, bearing a very sweet-scented flower.
This island did not tempt us to stay long, so we steered for Cagayan Sulu, which is a gem in the ocean; it has three peaks, wooded, but varied by grassy glades, groves of cocoa-nuts and fruit-trees, partly concealing and partly revealing scattered houses and villages. It is, indeed, a picturesque island from every view. Our first intercourse appeared likely to be unfriendly. Steering round to the south-west side, we landed at a place where we saw some houses close to the beach, and as we pulled ashore, we could see the inhabitants gathering in armed groups; however, we were received with great civility, and explained the object of our visit, which was to inquire what fresh provisions could be procured there. We did not stay long, as they promised to bring us down next day a good supply.
When we landed on the following morning, we found a very large party assembled with several fine bullocks for sale; while the bargaining was going on I wandered inland with a companion to have a look at the country. Wherever we went we found plantations of cocoa-nuts and plantains, and round the houses were small vegetable gardens, while between the dwellings were occasionally extensive tracks of long coarse grass, on which were herds of bullocks feeding.
At length we came to a spot which tempted us to rest. It was a rock overhanging a tiny bay, thrown into deep shade by the tall graceful palms which bent over it; while looking inland across the gently sloping fields of long high grass interspersed with groves, we could see parties of natives marching in Indian file, with their bright spear-heads flashing in the sun, winding their way down to the extemporized market. We sat under the shade of some areca palms; which, though young, and not twenty feet in height, were yet covered with fruit and freshly expanded blossoms, which shed a delicious perfume through the whole grove.
Our bargaining prospered, as fine cattle were secured at thirty shillings a piece, ducks for two wine bottles, fine cocks and hens for one; as well as a couple of pretty ponies, cocoa-nut oil and nuts, plantains, limes, ginger, onions, and fruits. This island, though formerly a dependency of Sulu, is now independent, and is governed by some of those half-bred Arabs who corrupt and weigh heavily on these countries. It is finely situated in the Sulu seas, and it is both healthy and fertile. The inhabitants appear much the same as those I had seen about Maludu Bay, and, with the exception of some strangers, were civil. The latter were traders who had visited Samboañgan, Manilla, and other Spanish ports, and were there corrupted, by intercourse with the low Europeans and dissipated classes who usually frequent such places; and at one time these men were so insolent that I thought their conduct would become unbearable, till they were quieted by my shooting down a cocoa-nut, as mentioned in my Limbang journal.
The most singular spot in this island is near the old crater-looking harbour, mentioned by Sir Edward Belcher, which we entered over a reef. It is almost circular, and is surrounded by lofty rocks clothed with trees, bushes, and hanging creepers, presenting a magnificent wall of evergreen. Rowing to the west side of the bay, and climbing to the top of a lofty bank, we had a splendid view of a remarkable almost circular, lake. The place where we stood was a gap between the lofty cliffs that rose on either hand, and appeared to have been formed by the inner waters bursting their boundary, and overthrowing the upper defences of this natural dam. The wooded cliff’s continue all round, forming a perfect barrier, now rising to a great height, then sinking to some fifty or sixty feet. The waters, elevated more than forty feet above the sea, lay in undisturbed repose, and presented for upwards of half a mile a clear mirror, reflecting back the rays of the sun and the deep shadow of the tall trees.
I mounted with some difficulty the top of the left-hand cliff, and had an extensive view through the tangled bushes. On one side were the waters of the crater, on the other the serene lake with the sea appearing beyond. We heard from the natives that alligators swarm in this secluded water, so that fish must be plentiful also, as few pigs could descend here. In the interior they say there is another more extensive lake of the same formation; this one was found to be eight fathoms deep at the edges, and forty in the centre.
Started from Cagayan Sulu, and after encountering rougher weather than we expected to find in this usually calm sea, lay to, as we thought we were not far from the island we were intending to visit.