Bold and daring as the datus appear, they have much politeness in their manners, particularly datu Daniel and his brother; and on proper occasions their carriage is dignified and commanding. The lower orders are outwardly rough, violent, and fierce, yet have an inherent politeness, which, when inclined to show confidence, they display to much advantage. On state occasions the young men appear in splendid dresses, while the elder content themselves with plain clothes. The dress is the same as the rest of the archipelago—a jacket, trousers, sarong, and occasionally a shirt or under-vest. They all wear krises, and most of them also carry either muskets or spears.
The Balignini near the watering-places were the worst we met—insolent and inclined to pilfer; indeed, there was nearly a quarrel about some of the seamen’s clothes they tried to appropriate. To show their dislike, they planted sharp fish-bones round the watering-place, in the hope that our men, landing in the dark, might cut their feet. The Dutch burnt about two hundred houses, but did little injury to the stockades, which are, however, sadly out of repair. In proper order, well mounted with guns, they could make a good defence, as the walls facing the sea are about fifteen feet thick of mud and stone, encased with teak stockades. The rampart around the sultan’s palace is in the best repair, but not so thick as the others; and datu Daniel’s is by no means contemptible. The men, too, would fight bravely, as they did against the Dutch; but their guns, except the brass ones, are mostly dismounted, and they have no carriages ready; the iron ones are said to be those taken at Balambañgan, when they surprised and captured our settlement.
The appearance of the country from the sea is very beautiful, many of the hills rising to a peak some 2,000 feet above the level of the sea; while others are lower and wooded, and form an agreeable contrast. Several of these eminences are forest-covered to the summit, while many present alternate patches of rice cultivation, pasture land, groves of cocoa-nut, palms, gardens, and detached clumps of forest trees. It is by far the most beautiful island I have seen. Sulu, in good hands, might be made to produce every tropical production, and become the centre of the commerce in these seas. Ships, by staying a little time, may obtain bullocks, fowls, ducks, vegetables, fruits, cocoa-nuts, and very fine water at a very good watering-place. The duties on goods are high; nevertheless, Mr. Wyndham and the Spaniards carry on a profitable commerce.
Tulyan is rather a small island, with hills to the north, but low land on the south: the former with a few trees and some bananas, with cocoa-nut palms at the foot; the latter a little woody. Dalrymple gives some account of it. In his time the Spaniards had driven the natives away, burnt their houses, and cut down their fruit-trees; but there is now a large village along the beach, with many cocoa-nut groves. The inhabitants are pearl fishers.
Next day anchored off two woody islets; the captain, as usual, shelling and dredging. Islands are to be seen in the distance all around us.
6th.—Anchored off Basilan. High hills and lowlands covered with woods, showing but few clearings. We counted eighteen islands at one time; among which were the late pirate haunts of Balignini and Tonquil. Beat about, and anchored off Samboañgan after dark.
We remained seven days at Samboañgan, walking and exploring in every direction, and enjoyed our stay there very much. Magindanau, as far as we have seen it, is very hilly and woody, with the exception of the neighbourhood of the Spanish settlement of Samboañgan, which has been cleared for some miles; though, for an old colony, not so much as might have been expected.
The town is situated on the west point of Lanun Bay, and from the sea appears much smaller than it is in reality. It presents no very striking features; the long, low, dark fort and whitewashed houses, intermixed with a few groves of cocoa-nuts, with forest on either side, and the hills, some cleared and some wooded, rising about seven miles inland, suggest a rough idea of this pleasant little town. The plain around is very well cultivated; as you walk along the roads—very much like English country ones—you have a continual series of large rice fields, cocoa-nut groves, now swelling into extensive plantations, then a few round a detached cottage, and intermixed with these are great quantities of bananas. Many small streams intersect the plain, adding much to its fertility, and are spanned by covered bridges.
The fort is to the right of the town, and has rather low walls, mounted with a good many guns; against a native force it must be impregnable, but a little shelling would soon subdue it. It is garrisoned by about two hundred and fifty native soldiers. Leaving its gate, you cross a large green, beyond which lies the principal portion of the town, laid out in a rectangular shape, with streets intersecting each other at equal distances. The houses are in general mere native ones; others a little superior; and perhaps a couple of dozen of a better class, in which reside the Governor, Lieutenant-Governor, Commandant, and other officers. Almost every other house has a shop, in which cigars, spirits, chocolate, sugar, and various other articles are sold. The most respectable class keep retail shops, as well as the little traders.
Beyond this portion of the town is a little green, with the church—a long barn-like building. Seen within by the imperfect light of evening, it appeared destitute of ornaments, except round the altar, and beyond this are some more streets. The houses I entered had very little furniture; a small table, some chairs, a bedstead, and a kind of drawers, with a few shelves, complete the whole.