The slaves taken among the Philippines, who know how to read and write and possess education, fetch a much higher price than any others, as they are useful in keeping their master’s accounts; and the women, it is said, by conversing with them, have gained far greater knowledge than their husbands, by means of which and their affection nearly rule them. Forrest says that in his time the women were very free in their manners, and given to intrigue, but in Eastern Asia it is a custom not confined to Sulu; but my impression from all I heard was that they were more chaste than the Borneans. The most manly-looking persons here are those whom they call the mountaineers, who appear far healthier and more vigorous than the town’s-people; but those we saw may have been merely the cultivators. The inland people, I heard, are more of the Ida’an race. They wear padded jackets, and are very brave.
In 1845, a Spanish frigate and fourteen gunboats were here at the watering-place, when a Bisayan slave went alongside of one of the boats to sell fruit: the moment the officer found he was a native of the Philippines, he ordered him to be seized and put on board, though he strongly protested against it. His master, who had a great affection for him, swore he would have his revenge and kill a Spaniard. Collecting about two hundred hill people, he rushed unexpectedly on the gunboats, all his followers advancing up to the middle in water, and hurling their spears: having killed several men, he was satisfied, and retired. The people are not really well armed; their spears, krises, and shields would be of little use against an European enemy.
We again visited the sultan, and found him in his hall, surrounded by perhaps about sixty or seventy people. We seated ourselves around the table, and free and easy conversation commenced. Presently chocolate was presented to us in tumblers, on plates, surrounded by native cakes; afterwards trays of sweetmeats—among others, some made by the sultana expressly for the occasion; then coffee, weak, and flavoured with cloves. For some time they conversed on various subjects, but presently datu Molok said that all business should be settled first, before any other conversation was proceeded with. When that was over, the sultan told us that, some short time back, the eastern coast of Borneo paid tribute to him, but that lately they had ceased, and asked the assistance of the English to endeavour to obtain the renewal of the ancient custom.
At ten we retired. The curtain hung at the end of the hall this evening was half raised, and disclosed the huge bed, on which were sitting many of the principal women of the harim.
Went on shore at the watering place; had a short walk and a delicious bathe. I roughly measured the circumference of the big tree, and as I have elsewhere stated, it was above forty feet in circumference. In the evening we landed in order to have a farewell interview with the sultan. It was quite a private meeting; a few people only followed us who saw us land; and when we arrived at the sultan’s palace we found that he was in a small house, the residence of his young wife. While waiting, I looked about the place; all showed symptoms of decay. Near us was the skeleton of an old gaol fallen to pieces, and farther the timbers of the residence where the late sultan had died; for it is a custom of theirs never to dwell in a house where a great man has expired. Presently a couple of the datus joined us in our walk, and proceeding over a small stream along a roughly raised boarded path we reached the little dwelling of his bride.
We found the sultan resting on a bed filling nearly half the room. Taking off our shoes, we mounted, and reclined on numerous pillows brought by the attendants. After a few minutes’ conversation, a sort of window at the head of the raised platform was opened to allow the sultan’s ladies to obtain a sight of the English visitors. Their room was too dark for us to see more within it than a few dim shadows, and their candles give so imperfect a light, that I could not clearly distinguish the features even of those women who came to the door; they appeared to have fat, laughing faces. Some more of the datus arriving, conversation became very animated, and their inquiries were very numerous with regard to European affairs and European discoveries. This was a little interrupted by the arrival of chocolate and cakes, with some spirit like spiced aniseed, and by the sultan’s frequent puff of the opium pipe with a barrel as thick as a large bamboo and a brass bowl. About five inches from the end this bowl had a small centre hole, in which, with infinite trouble, the sultan introduced the drug. They all appeared remarkably friendly, and said if we would only come and spend a little time there after the rice crop was in, they would take us up to the mountains to hunt deer on horseback; or if we liked a change, we might go shooting, or do anything we pleased.
I should in truth have liked very much to spend a month in Sulu. We stayed till about ten, and then shaking hands with all, left the house. On the whole, I was greatly pleased with these people; they appeared manly, and not too cunning. We returned to Mr. Wyndham’s house, and remained a short time with him. He was a shrewd man, entirely self-educated, and appeared anxious to assist us in every way. His leaning, as I have observed, was towards the Spaniards, but the natives had such a determined hatred both to the Dutch and Spaniards, that he could not alter their disposition.
Left at daylight. Even a distant view confirms my impression of the great beauty of the island. We stood on towards Basilan, where, in the Bay of Maloza, seven Spanish gunboats were seen at anchor. From an officer who came on board we learnt that the Governor of Samboañgan was there. Sir James Brooke determined to meet him immediately, and left with the officer, while we followed and found the Governor looking as hearty as ever, rather tired from having been engaged in an expedition up the country against the pirates. After firing a few guns, the enemy had fled, leaving their houses and property to be destroyed.
The great fatigue was in making their way through the tangled, wet jungle, where the mire was so deep that they were occasionally up to their waists in it. The Spaniards are certainly an agreeable people to meet, and the officers looked intelligent. The Manilla troops were strong, fine men; the gunboats very effective for defence: they mount a 9-pounder or 12-pounder, and six, eight, or ten brass swivels, and are well manned; they are, however, too slow for pursuit.
The Governor was very much startled by the news of the expected arrival of the Dutch, of which he had not the slightest idea, thinking that Bali would occupy them this summer. He determined immediately to return and write to Manilla.