Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 2 of 2)

by Sir Spenser St. John

The capital is divided among the partisans of the sons of the late sultan, who hold the offices of tumanggong and pamancha, and are supported by their uncle the de gadong; leaving the bandhara, the highest minister in rank, though not in power, as the mainstay of the opposing faction, who support the sons of the late Muda Hassim, whose death is described in Captain Mundy’s volumes on Borneo. The tumanggong is the popular candidate, and he, or one of his family, may succeed to the throne without bloodshed, as the opposing candidate is daily losing ground. I liked both of them, but the former is more likely to keep things together than the latter. It is a government, however, beyond all hope of improvement.

To add to the difficulties of the country, a religious schism has appeared. It is curious, though very difficult to be understood. I will endeavour to give a clear account of my view of the case. About twenty years ago, a Bornean haji, named Mahomed, taught that God had no personality; to say he had, was to acknowledge oneself an infidel. Being pressed for an explanation, he said, the personality might be allowed in the thoughts, but to express it in words was to compare the Deity to a human being, which was a gross impiety. The religious world, shocked at this heresy, sent a deputation to Mecca, who returned denouncing haji Mahomed as a false teacher. He replied by accusing the hajis of deceiving the people; that his was the true doctrine, as taught by the elders of the Church, and that he would go and inquire for himself. After an absence of two years, he arrived full of Arabic and learning to uphold his former opinion. The controversy waxed hotter and hotter, deputation and counter-deputation went off to Mecca; but each party always asserted that the learned doctors had decided for them. Rival mosques were built, with their rival imams and preachers. The people of the capital, not understanding the question, ranged themselves under their chosen leaders, and added to their political differences their religious quarrels.

The present sultan, and the family of the late rajah Muda Hassim, with about a tenth of the city, but nearly all the hajis, support the orthodox or personality theory; while the pañgeran tumanggong, the rest of the family of the late sultan, and most of the sections of Brunei, are followers of haji Mahomed’s doctrine. This controversial haji died about four years ago, and the present sultan was very loth to permit him to be buried in the usual cemetery; but his friends mustered too strongly to be resisted, and all opposition was withdrawn. The two parties have a difference in the length of the fast month: one reckons it at twenty-nine days, the other at thirty; and both are ready to apply the term infidel to their opponents.

I may mention, whilst speaking of the fast month, that on its termination the sultan and rajahs proceed in gay procession to visit and have cleaned the graves of their ancestors. It is a pretty sight: some fifty long prahus, urged on by from ten to fifty paddles, gliding over the waters, with gay flags, bright-coloured umbrellas, in which the royal yellow, and the white, black, green, and red of the viziers are conspicuous. Gongs and drums are beaten, and the crews shout, to give life to the scene.

There is a very pretty custom among the Malays, to visit their friends on the great feast-day that terminates the fast, and to endeavour to do away with any ill-feeling, jealousy, or animosity, that may have arisen during the past year, by asking pardon of all their friends for any shortcomings. They do this to all, as they thus avoid any peculiar notice of the offence, and seek forgiveness also for any unintentional annoyance they may have given.

Anything that varies the monotonous life led by the people of the capital is seized upon with avidity. They, therefore, delight in story-tellers, conjurors, and dancers. There are several female professional story-tellers, who go from one harim to another, relating, in a sort of chant, metrical tales of former days. They are supposed to improvise, and may occasionally vary the tale and embellish it with fresh incidents, but they generally rely on the Malay versions of Indian poems. These women are eagerly sought after by the court ladies, as they not only thus amuse them, but are the collectors of the news and scandal of the day. I have occasionally listened to them, but not with much interest.

There are also women who pretend to be possessed with a spirit, and whilst under its influence are supposed to speak in an unknown tongue—uttering unearthly sounds, and making violent contortions of their faces. They likewise pretend to be able to discover stolen goods, and to cure diseases; they will even assist a jealous woman to destroy the life of another by incantations, making a little wax image, and as that melts away so does the woman fade whom she endeavours to destroy. She compounds charms and philtres for the love-sick, and will make some mysterious marks on a bit of paper, which, placed near the sleeping-mat of man or woman, will suffice to change the affections of the occupant of that bed.

Many are also adepts in the art of procuring abortions, and practice has given them so much perfection that, by mechanical means, they succeed in their designs without injuring the patient. They drive a thriving trade in the capital, and prevent the necessity of infanticide, which therefore very rarely occurs. When it is considered that the rajahs part with their concubines after the birth of one or two children, it is not surprising that a favourite should take any means to uphold her influence. They are never taught morality when young, and they follow eagerly in the footsteps of their elders.

More than half the daughters of the nobility cannot procure husbands, as they are not allowed to marry a person of inferior rank, and must receive a large marriage portion. There is very little restraint on the conduct of these girls, none but such as they place upon themselves, as it is quite impossible, with their slight houses, to prevent nocturnal visits of lovers; but should they prove with child, it is considered a great scandal. I believe Brunei to be the most immoral city of which I have heard.

But to return to the conjurors. When they give notice that it is their intention to receive visitors, as the spirits will most probably enter into them, their houses are crowded by young men and such women as can get there, but they often confine their performances to some sleight of hand. I watched one do a trick, and she did it cleverly. She began by telling me she knew I disbelieved in her power, but she would convince me, by cooking one of my own eggs from simply breathing on it. I sent for one, and taking it in her hands, she appeared suddenly to be possessed by the spirit: she uttered unearthly sounds, pretended to desire to attack some one who laughed at her, so as to require two women to hold her back, until the indignant comments of the bystanders caused the scoffer to hide her face; she then commenced putting her features through such contortions as effectually to prevent my watching her countenance, but I kept my eyes upon her hands; presently she became quiet, and began breaking the egg; it was certainly cooked; she carefully collected the shell, and then eat its contents. She then breathed on the fragments of shell, and almost immediately opened her hand with my uncooked egg untouched.