Fig. 185. Thomas lord Berkeley (ob. 1417) with a collar of mermaids, from his brass at Wotton-under-Edge, Gloucestershire.
In his will dated 1430 William Stowe the elder, of Ripon, a retainer in the household of the earl of Northumberland, bequeaths his silver livery Anglice cressaunt and his livery Anglice coller to the shrine of St. Wilfrid.[28] Possibly the 'cressaunt' was an object similar to that here figured (now belonging to the duke of Northumberland), and the collar like that formed of p's and crescents enclosing p's linked together which is engraved upon it (fig. [186]).
Fig. 186. Silver badge belonging to the duke of Northumberland.
The earlier collars, as has already been noted, were composed of devices sewn upon a band of stuff, but in later examples a more open treatment is found wherein the devices are linked together by short pieces of chain, as in the collar of SS shown in Sir Thomas More's portrait. The Yorkist collar of suns and roses on an effigy at Erdington is so treated, as is the collar of SS and flowers on the Salkeld effigies, which may perhaps be a personal and not a livery collar.