Letters from the peninsula, 1808-1812

by Sir William Warre

As the French retreat and approach France, they come nearer their supplies, etc., properly their base of operation. While in separate armies the gallant Spaniards could by numbers surround and cut off their supplies and communications, and by enthusiasm and impetuosity overcome them. But the case is far different, when a regular army is collected and within reach of its supplies, nor have we of late heard of any material success of the Spaniards. I do not mean by this, that a nation like Spain urged by such motives for enthusiasm and revenge is not able, if unanimous, to gain at last and maintain its independence, but that it must be at the expense of many thousand lives, of proofs of the greatest fortitude and constancy, not, if, as they are doing in this country, they totally neglect their army, who instead of learning the very elements of their duty, of which they are totally ignorant, are employed in rejoicings and illuminations, or talking big of actions and valour, who never saw a shot fired.

I live almost constantly with Portuguese, and have had a great deal of conversation with them. Some of the most enlightened foresee the consequences of the Government as now established, and the utter ruin of the Country. They speak sensibly on the subject, and affect to feel its situation, but no one steps forward to point out the defects.

The Regency as appointed by the Prince in the midst of hurry and confusion, was as lame a Government as could well be, mostly all old superannuated Generals, who had never seen an enemy, or lawyers, who if they knew anything of the jurisprudence of their country, are entirely ignorant of Politics and Finance. Pedro de Mello is supposed to understand the interior regulation of the country, its police, and resources in men, etc., but little of finance. He has been very properly removed for his conduct during the stay of the French, as were Principe al Castro, Conde de St Payo, and the Marquez de Abrantes, the latter being a prisoner in France. To supply these they have chosen the Bishop of Porto, and the Marquez das Minas, a very young man, of whom I hear that he has no other merit than that he wears a very gay uniform and a very long feather. Thus in a country, whose finances are in such a deplorable condition that they have been obliged to pay the Police Guard out of the funds voluntarily raised for the support of the Army on its march, they have not chosen one man who has the least practice or knowledge in that branch, nor have they attempted to improve the state of their army.

Their decrees since they came into power are as puerile and weak as might be expected. In short, all classes call out against the want of vigour and (the) ignorance of their rulers, though themselves wrapped up in the most unaccountable apathy and egotism.

I am getting my strength and health very fast. I removed last week from the lodgings I was in to the house of a Senhor Manoel Maçedo, who married Lucas Siabra’s daughter. Nothing can exceed his kindness and attention. We were going for billets in the town, but having been introduced to us by Frè Bernardo Bettrão (by us I mean also Major Wilson 97th, who was wounded on the 21st, and we have been ever since together) he called and insisted upon our coming to his house, and would take no apology, assuring us that we should go and dine and live where we pleased. But since we have been in his house he not only feeds us but any friend who comes to see us. He is a man of very large property, but only lately married. He is very much attached to everything that is English. He has lived a great deal in Brazil and shewed me some curious accounts of the natives of the interior, and a plan he proposed for their civilization, very well written and with wonderful liberality and tolerance for a Portuguese. Frè Bernardo Bettrão has been most friendly and constant in his attention, and introduced me to several of my Uncle’s friends, who have been very attentive, particularly Lucas Siabra, the Lieutenant-General of the Police, to whose house we are at all times welcome. Society in Lisbon, or amusements, there are none. The opera is closed for want of funds, and in private families, that is the few that are in Lisbon, people meet of an evening, sometimes with great formality, but the change, and distrust of difference of opinion, while the French were here, and petty intrigues, evidently cast a gloom over every Portuguese.

In the town, but for the strong English Guards and Picquets, the mob would have murdered, and destroyed the houses of everybody connected with the French, and even now, if a French deserter, or spy (for I am informed many have been detected) is found, the cry of “Hè Francez” is enough, unless some English are near, to have him murdered without mercy, and many have been murdered.

I intend setting out from this for Porto about the end of next week, with Frè Bernardo. We shall travel slow as I wish to see Coimbra, and am not yet equal to long journeys, though quite wonderfully recovered, considering how ill I was. I will write as soon as I arrive there and have seen how things are going on. I am very anxious to hear from some of my dear friends. Except a letter of the 3rd from Hardy I have not a line from home, though all my friends have heard since, and therefore suppose my letters are wandering about Lisbon. I have made every enquiry for them. Having been so little out, nobody knows where I am to be found, and I fear they are lost, if any came. In future pray direct to the care of Senhor Carlos Oniel or any of your correspondents, who will easily find me out. I called yesterday on Madame Mantzoro. She received me with great politeness and attention, and desired me to remember her most kindly to you and my Uncle. She and all the family are well.

If the 23rd have sailed, or are to sail, and that Genl. Ferguson should not return, or be employed elsewhere, pray send me out the things I wrote for, and also in addition a white Dragoon sword-belt which is in George Street; and from Hoby, who had my measure, two pairs of long Regent boots, but these only if 23rd should embark, and the General not be employed, as if he is, I should hope he would wish to have me with him anywhere. I long to see him back here. In his absence I am quite desamparado.[10] Adieu, my dear Father. Daily in my own quiet hermitage, ...

When I think of my own native land,

In a moment I seem to be there;