Hd. Quarters, Fornos D’Algodres, May 23, 1810.
My Dear Ellen,
As you desire to hear from me immediately I will not lose a moment in thanking you for your dear letter of the 15th and 24th April, and for your affectionate kind wishes on my birthday....
We have been in this Quarter near a month and most heartily tired of it. It is a miserable little village on the side of a very high mountain, opposite to the famous mountains of the Estrella, and about a mile from the river Mondego, and 8 from Celorico the Hd. Qrs. of Lord Wellington.
I have lately changed my abode, as in the last the rain ran in upon my bed, and we were three in a very small room with one window without a pane of glass. Indeed in the whole of the Marshal’s Quarters there are but 6 in one window. We only had one bason and one jug, and you may imagine the squabbling as to who was to wash first. I have deposed some silkworms from my present room, and have at least the luxury of being alone, and having a broken pewter bason, none of the cleanest, to myself. There’s luxury for you! The rain however, which has been incessant for the last 3 months or more, has found its way in, and runs in tolerable streams in four parts of my dismal abode. My bed escapes, and my bason and some broken jars catch water. Therefore I am rather well off.
At the General’s, my last Quarter, we had 7 or 8 grown up young ladies, des grands du Village, the most affected stupid misses I ever met with in any barbarous country. They never were three miles from home, and ape notwithstanding from hearsay what they fancy great people should do. They think me I believe very proud, and the young ladies are mighty shy. I am not, however, quite safe from the attacks of a maiden aunt of 30 to 40 with little cat’s eyes and bad teeth. I think she will find I am bomb-proof to her kind looks and sighs. She has already begun to try what disdain will do, to my great joy and amusement. You would be much entertained to see us assemble at breakfast and dinner, near 20 people. We have succeeded at last in making them wash their hands and faces, and if we remain long enough no doubt will also attain the desideratum of combing their hair, even for breakfast, or rather before breakfast, and once or twice a week, oftener than on Sunday morning.
Public news I have none to tell you, except the arrival of Masséna to command the army of Portugal, which is between Ciudad Rodrigo and Salamanca. He is a very clever enterprising Officer, and will soon give us something to do, I have no doubt, but we are not at all afraid of him, as our troops both English and Portuguese are in the highest spirits, and the latter so much improved that they hardly know themselves again. I have no doubt they will do their duty, but should wish to break them in by degrees....
Ever yr. most affectionate Brother,
Wm. W.