Elizabeth, as all students of history know, paid great attention to dress; not only in matters concerning her own person, but also in those affecting her Court and followers. Accordingly, we find that a decree, ordering a body of Lancashire men to be raised for service in Ireland, stated that "the soldiers shall be given convenient doublets and hose and also a cassock of some motley or other sad green colour or russet; also every soldier to have five shillings to provide a mantle in Ireland besides his livery coat."
Another interesting quotation, taken from Lawrence Archer's "British Army Records," mentions Sir John Harrington as stating that an officer's kit in Elizabeth's time consisted of—
1 cassock of broad cloth.
1 canvass doublet with silk lining and buttons.
2 shirts.
2 bands.
3 pairs of stockings at 2s. 6d. each.
3 pairs of shoes.
1 pair of Venetians with silver lace (i.e. trousers).
When the Civil War broke out, the Royalists or Cavaliers wore a very picturesque though hardly serviceable uniform; it consisted of a doublet of silk, satin, or velvet with large loose sleeves slashed up the front, the collar covered by a falling band of lace, whilst a short cloak was carelessly worn on one shoulder. Long breeches tucked into boots, the uppers of which were loose and curled over,[2] added to the picturesque appearance of the warriors. A Flemish beaver, with a distinctive hatband and an elaborate feather, was the usual headgear. The silk doublet, it should be added, was often replaced by a buff coat in war-time.
[2] Apparently this slovenly looking boot was used in order to prevent the leg from being crushed in a battle charge.
The Commonwealth, of course, brought sober clothing which, at least, was more protective and useful than that associated with the Tudor and Stuart periods.
In Charles II's time the military uniform, as we know it to-day, began to materialize. It is true that during the early part of Charles's reign the soldiers wore the pre-Commonwealth styles, but when the King began to form certain regiments, which still exist at the present moment, a need for definite uniforms became manifest. Thus, in 1661, the Earl of Oxford raised the Horse Guards and provided them with a picturesque blue uniform, and in 1665 the Third Buffs was formed and soon earned for itself this distinctive name as its accoutrements were fashioned from buffalo leather.
James II introduced few changes. It is worth mentioning, however, that wigs became fashionable in this period, and large hats adorned with waving feathers were worn to suit the style of coiffure. Sewn into the crown of these hats, skull caps made of iron were frequently found.
In 1695, according to a contemporary authority, the coats and breeches of the sergeants and ordinary soldiers were, in most cases, grey, whilst the coats of drummer boys were purple. The shape of these costumes followed the civilian styles of the period.
When Anne came to the throne, armour which had not been entirely abolished completely died out, and the foot soldiers wore a comfortable scarlet coat with distinctive facings, a cocked hat, breeches, and long black gaiters reaching just above the knees, with a strap below the knee to hold them in position. The cavalry also wore a cocked hat and large boots. Some officers wore a wide-brimmed hat, turned up on two sides and decked with gay feathers.[3]