Geologists and geographers have divided the United States into many provinces, each of which has distinctive geologic and topographic characteristics that set it apart from the others. Colorado National Monument is in the northeastern part of the Canyon Lands section of the Colorado Plateau Province—a province that contains 15 national parks and monuments, about 3 times as many as any other province. This province, hereinafter referred to simply as the Colorado Plateau, or the Plateau, covers some 150,000 square miles and extends from Rifle, Colo., at the northeast to a little beyond Flagstaff, Ariz., at the southwest, and from Cedar City, Utah, at the west nearly to Albuquerque, N. Mex., at the southeast. This scenic province consists of high plateaus generally ranging in altitude from 4,500 feet to more than 7,000 feet, which are deeply and intricately dissected by literally thousands of canyons.
Colorado National Monument is drained entirely by the Colorado River, which flows to the northwest in the wide Grand Valley just a few miles from the northeastern border ([fig. 3]). The small streams that drain the Monument contain water only after summer thundershowers or after rapid snowmelt.
Why is the large valley of the Colorado River called the Grand Valley? The Colorado River northeast from its confluence with the Green River in the middle of Canyonlands National Park[17] formerly was called the Grand River, and the Green and Grand joined at the confluence to form the Colorado River. The Grand River was renamed Colorado River by act of the Colorado State Legislature approved March 24, 1921, and approved by act of Congress July 25, 1921. But the old term still remains in names such as Grand County, Colo., the headwaters region; Grand Valley, a town 16 miles west of Rifle, Colo.; Grand Valley between Palisade and Mack, Colo.; Grand Mesa, an extensive plateau which towers more than a mile above the Grand and Gunnison River Valleys; Grand Junction, Colo., a city appropriately situated at the confluence of the Grand and Gunnison Rivers; and Grand County, Utah, which the river traverses after entering Utah.
The Geologic Story Begins
Colorado National Monument is a land of brightly colored cliff-walled canyons and towering monoliths—a majestic sample of mysterious canyonlands that stretch hundreds of miles to the west and south. Now a desert region more than a mile above the sea, it was not always so. More than a billion years ago the site of the Monument was deep beneath the sea. Later, lofty mountains were pushed up only to be obliterated eventually by the slow but relentless forces of erosion. Millions of years later the earth shook to the stride of 10-ton dinosaurs—then the sea returned again and sharks swam over the region looking for food.
These are but a few samples of the interesting—even exciting—events in the long geologic history of the Monument. Many pages, indeed several whole chapters, of its history are missing and must be inferred from nearby regions where the story is more complete. Thus, the cliffs and canyons you are looking at did not get that way overnight. An understanding of the geologic processes and events that led to the scenic features of today should help you toward a clearer picture and greater appreciation of nature’s handiworks ([fig. 6]).
Geologists recognize rocks of three distinctly different modes of origin—sedimentary, igneous, and metamorphic, and there are many variations of each type. The sedimentary rocks of the Monument are composed of clay, silt, sand, and gravel carried and deposited by moving water; silt and fine sand transported by wind; and some limestone, composed mainly of the mineral calcium carbonate, which was precipitated from water solutions in freshwater lakes. In areas not far to the northeast and southwest are many sedimentary rocks of marine origin, that is, materials that were deposited in the ocean or shallow inland seas, but in the Monument marine sedimentary rocks occur only in parts of the Dakota Sandstone; however, the overlying marine Mancos Shale underlies the adjacent Grand Valley and forms the lower slopes of the Book Cliffs across the valley ([fig. 25]).
Igneous rocks were solidified from liquid molten rock intruded upward into any preexisting rocks along cracks, joints, and faults. Molten rock that reaches the land surface and forms volcanos or lava flows is called extrusive igneous rock. Joints are cracks or breaks in rocks along which no movement has taken place. Faults are cracks or joints along which one side has moved relative to the other. Different types of faults are shown in [figure 28]. Metamorphic rocks were formed from either of the other types by great heat and pressure at extreme depths in the Earth’s crust. Metamorphic rocks and some intrusive igneous rocks make up the hard, dark rock that floors all the deep canyons in and near the Monument. The nearest extrusive igneous rocks are the thick, dark lava flows that cap towering Grand Mesa to the east and Battlement Mesa to the northeast.
