BY STEPHEN GRAHAM ❦ ❦ ❦
WITH SIXTEEN ILLUSTRATIONS
AND TWO MAPS ❦ ❦ ❦ ❦
LONDON JOHN LANE THE BODLEY HEAD
NEW YORK JOHN LANE COMPANY MCMXI
Turnbull & Spears, Printers, Edinburgh
CONTENTS
| CHAP. | PAGE | |
| Prologue: How I came to be a Tramp | [3] | |
| I. | Robbed in the Train | [15] |
| II. | Christmas in Little Russia | [24] |
| III. | Mummers at a Country House | [38] |
| IV. | At Uncle’s | [52] |
| V. | Among Moscow Students | [60] |
| VI. | “Love us when we are Dirty, for everyone will love us when we are Clean!” | [73] |
| VII. | A Night at a Shrine | [83] |
| VIII. | The Day after the Feast | [94] |
| IX. | A Mushroom Fair in Lent | [101] |
| X. | Departure from Moscow | [108] |
| XI. | The Coming of Summer in the Caucasus | [117] |
| XII. | The Epistle to the Caucasians | [124] |
| XIII. | A Mountain Dawn | [131] |
| XIV. | Among the Ingooshi | [138] |
| XV. | The Iron not made by Hands | [149] |
| XVI. | At a Mill on the Terek | [156] |
| XVII. | The Gorge of Dariel | [163] |
| XVIII. | At a Village Inn | [167] |
| XIX. | “Through Snow and Ice” | [172] |
| XX. | Lavrenti Cham Khotadze | [176] |
| XXI. | On the Road to Tiflis | [182] |
| XXII. | A Two-Hundred-Mile Walk | [188] |
| XXIII. | Climbing into Winter | [194] |
| XXIV. | A Night in a Koutan | [199] |
| XXV. | Over Mamison | [204] |
| XXVI. | Arrested | [210] |
| XXVII. | Five Days under Arrest | [216] |
| XXVIII. | Mr Adam | [224] |
| XXIX. | The Baptist Chapel | [235] |
| XXX. | The Woman who saw God | [243] |
| XXXI. | Ali Pasha | [248] |
| XXXII. | The Sorrowing Man | [255] |
| XXXIII. | The Cucumber Fair | [262] |
| XXXIV. | Over the Caucasus | [271] |
| Epilogue: The Horizon | [285] | |
| Appendix: How to get About—a Chapter for Prospective Tourists | [301] | |
| Index | [309] |