9. Of the other cities of Latium, some are distinguished by a variety of remarkable objects, others by the celebrated roads which intersect Latium, being situated either upon, or near to, or between these roads, the most celebrated of which are the Via Appia, the Via Latina, and the Via Valeria. The former of these bounds the maritime portion of Latium, as far as Sinuessa, the latter extends along Sabina as far as the Marsi, whilst between these is the Via Latina, which falls in with the Via Appia near to Casilinum,[1853] a city distant from Capua[1854] 19 stadia. The Via Latina commences from the Via Appia, branching from it towards the left, near to Rome. It passes over the Tusculan mountain, between the city of Tusculum[1855] and Mount Albanus; it then descends to the little city of Algidum,[1856] and the Pictæ tavern; afterwards the Via Lavicana joins it, which commences, like the Via Prænestina, from the Esquiline gate. This road, as well as the Esquiline plain, the Via Lavicana leaves on the left; it then proceeds a distance of 120 stadia, or more, when it approaches Lavicum, an ancient city now in ruins, situated on an eminence; this and Tusculum it leaves on the right, and terminates near to Pictæ in the Via Latina. This place is 210 stadia distant from Rome. Proceeding thence along the Via Latina there are noble residences, and the cities Ferentinum,[1857] Frusino,[1858] by which the river Cosa flows, Fabrateria,[1859] by which flows the river Sacco,[1860] Aquinum,[1861] a large city, by which flows the great river Melfa,[1862] Interamnium, situated at the confluence of two rivers, the Garigliano and another, Casinum, also an important city, and the last of those belonging to Latium. For Teanum, called Sidicinum,[1863] which lies next in order, shows by its name that it belongs to the nation of the Sidicini. These people are Osci, a surviving nation of the Campani, so that this city, which is the largest of those situated upon the Via Latina, may be said to be Campanian; as well as that of Cales,[1864] another considerable city which lies beyond, and is contiguous to Casilinum.[1865]
10. As to the places situated on either side of the Via Latina, those on the right are between it and the Via Appia; of their number are Setia[1866] and Signia,[1867] which produce wine, that of Setia being one of the dearest wines, and that called Signium the best for strengthening the stomach. Before this[1868] are Privernum,[1869] Cora,[1870] Suessa,[1871] ‘Trapontium,’[1872] Velitræ,[1873] Aletrium,[1874] and also Fregellæ,[1875] by which the Garigliano flows, which discharges itself [into the sea] near Minturnæ. Fregellæ, though now a village, was formerly a considerable city, and the chief of the surrounding places we have just named. Even now their inhabitants throng to it on market days, and for the performance of certain religious solemnities. Its defection from the Romans was the cause of its ruin.[1876] Both these, and also the cities lying on the Via Latina and beyond, situated in the territories of the Hernici, Æqui, and Volsci, were for the most part founded by the Romans. To the left of the Via Latina, the cities between it and the Via Valeria, are, Gabii,[1877] standing in the Via Prænestina, it possesses a stone-quarry, in greater demand at Rome than any other, and is at an equal distance of about 100 stadia between Rome and Præneste.[1878] Then Præneste, of which we shall have occasion presently to speak. Then, in the mountains above Præneste, Capitulum, a small city of the Hernici, and Anagnia,[1879] a considerable city; Cereate,[1880] and Sora, by which the river Garigliano[1881] flows as it passes on to Fregellæ, and Minturnæ. After these there are other places, and finally, Venafrum,[1882] from whence comes the finest oil. This city is situated on a high hill by the foot of which flows the Volturno,[1883] which passing by Casilinum,[1884] discharges itself [into the sea] at a city[1885] bearing the same name as itself. Æsernia[1886] and Alliphæ,[1887] cities of the Samnites, the former was destroyed in the Marsian war,[1888] the other still remains.
11. The Via Valeria, commencing from Tibura,[1889] leads to the country of the Marsi, and to Corfinium,[1890] the metropolis of the Peligni. Upon it are situated the Latin cities of Valeria,[1891] Carseoli,[1892] Alba,[1893] and near to it the city of Cuculum.[1894] Within sight of Rome are Tibura, Præneste, and Tusculum.[1895] At Tibura is a temple of Hercules, and a cataract formed by the fall of the Teverone,[1896] (which is here navigable,) from a great height into a deep and wooded ravine close to the city. From thence the river flows through a highly fertile plain along by the Tiburtine stone-quarries, those of the Gabii, and those denominated the red-stone quarries. As both the carriage from the quarries and the conveyance by river are easy, most of the Roman edifices are built of materials from hence. In this plain flow the cold waters called Albula, they spring from numerous fountains, and are taken both as a beverage and as baths,[1897] for the cure of various diseases. Of the same kind are the Labanæ,[1898] not far from these, on the Via Nomentana, and near to Eretum.[1899] At Præneste is the celebrated temple and oracle of Fortune. Both this and the preceding city are situated on the same chain of mountains, and are distant from each other 100 stadia. Præneste is 200 stadia from Rome, Tibura less than that distance. They are said to be both of Grecian foundation, Præneste being formerly named Polystephanus. They are both fortified, but Præneste is the stronger place of the two, having for its citadel a lofty mountain, which overhangs the town, and is divided at the back from the adjoining mountain range by a neck of land. This mountain is two stadia higher than the neck in direct altitude. In addition to these [natural] defences, the city is furnished on all sides with subterraneous passages, which extend to the plains, and some of which serve to convey water, while others form secret ways; it was in one of these that Marius[1900] perished, when he was besieged. Other cities are in most instances benefited by a strong position, but to the people of Præneste it has proved a bane, owing to the civil wars of the Romans. For hither the revolutionary movers take refuge, and when at last they surrender, in addition to the injury sustained by the city during the war, the country is confiscated, and the guilt thus imputed to the guiltless. The river Verestis[1901] flows through this region. The said cities are to the east of Rome.
12. But within-side the chain of mountains, [where these cities are situated,] there is another ridge, leaving a valley between it and Mount Algidus; it is lofty, and extends as far as Mount Albanus.[1902] It is on this ridge that Tusculum is situated, a city which is not wanting in adornment, being entirely surrounded by ornamental plantations and edifices, particularly that part of it which looks towards Rome. For on this side Tusculum presents a fertile hill, well irrigated, and with numerous gentle slopes embellished with majestic palaces. Contiguous are the undulating slopes of Mount Albanus, which are equally fertile and ornamented. Beyond are plains which extend some of them to Rome and its environs, others to the sea; these latter are unhealthy, but the others are salubrious and well cultivated. Next after Albanum is the city Aricia, on the Appian Way. It is 160 stadia from Rome. This place is situated in a hollow, and has a strong citadel.[1903] Beyond it on one side of the way is Lanuvium,[1904] a Roman city on the right of the Via Appia, and from which both the sea and Antium may be viewed. On the other side is the Artemisium,[1905] which is called Nemus,[1906] on the left side of the way, leading from Aricia to the temple.[1907] They say that it is consecrated to Diana Taurica, and certainly the rites performed in this temple are something barbarous and Scythic. They appoint as priest a fugitive who has murdered the preceding priest with his own hand. Apprehensive of an attack upon himself, the priest is always armed with a sword, ready for resistance. The temple is in a grove, and before it is a lake of considerable size. The temple and water are surrounded by abrupt and lofty precipices, so that they seem to be situated in a deep and hollow ravine. The springs by which the lake is filled are visible. One of these is denominated Egeria, after the name of a certain divinity; however, their course on leaving the lake is subterraneous, but they may be observed at some distance, when they rise to the surface of the ground.
13. Near to these localities is Mount Albanus,[1908] which is much higher than either the Artemisium or the heights surrounding it, although these are sufficiently lofty and precipitous. It has likewise a lake,[1909] much larger than that of the Artemisium. Further forward than these are the cities on the Via Latina, we have already mentioned. Alba[1910] is the most inland of all the Latin cities; it borders on the Marsi, and is situated on a high hill near to Lake Fucinus. This [lake] is vast as a sea, and is of great service to the Marsi and all the surrounding nations. They say, that at times its waters rise to the height of the mountains which surround it, and at others subside so much, that the places which had been covered with water reappear and may be cultivated; however, the subsidings of the waters occur irregularly and without previous warning, and are followed by their rising again; the springs fail altogether and gush out again after a time; as they say is the case with the Amenanus,[1911] which flows through Catana,[1912] for after remaining dry for a number of years, it again flows. It is reported that the Marcian[1913] water, which is drunk at Rome in preference to any other, has its source in [Lake] Fucinus. As Alba is situated in the depths of the country, and is besides a strong position, the Romans have often employed it as a place of security, for lodging important prisoners.[1914]
CHAPTER IV.
1. After having commenced with the nations about the Alps, and the Apennine mountains which are near to these, we proceeded from thence and passed through that portion of the hither country lying between the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Apennine mountains, which incline towards the Adriatic, as far as the Samnites and the Campani. We will now return again, and describe the mountaineers, and those who dwell at the foot of the mountains; whether on the coast of the Adriatic, or in the interior. Thus, we must recommence from the boundaries of Keltica.[1915]
2. After the cities of the Ombrici, which are comprised between Ariminum[1916] and Ancona, comes Picenum. The Picentini proceeded originally from the land of the Sabini. A woodpecker led the way for their chieftains, and from this bird they have taken their name, it being called in their language Picus, and is regarded as sacred to Mars. They inhabit the plains extending from the mountains to the sea; the length of their country considerably exceeds its breadth; the soil is every where good, but better fitted for the cultivation of fruits than grain. Its breadth, from the mountains to the sea varies in different parts. But its length; from the river Æsis[1917] to Castrum,[1918] sailing round the coast, is 800 stadia. Of its cities, Ancona is of Grecian origin, having been founded by the Syracusans who fled from the tyranny of Dionysius. It is situated upon a cape, which bending round towards the north forms a harbour; and it abounds in wine and wheat. Near to it is the city of Auxumon,[1919] at a little distance from the sea. After it are Septempeda,[1920] Pneuentia,[1921] Potentia,[1922] and Firmum Picenum,[1923] with its port of Castellum.[1924] Beyond, is the temple of Cupra,[1925] built and dedicated by the Tyrrheni to Juno, who is named by them Cupra; and after it the river Tronto,[1926] with a city of the same name.[1927] Beyond this is Castrum Novum,[1928] and the river Piomba,[1929] flowing from the city of Adria,[1930] and having [at its mouth] the naval station of Adria, which bears the same name as itself. In the interior is [the city of Adria] itself and Asculum Picenum,[1931] a very strong position, upon which is built a wall: the mountains which surround it are not accessible to armies.[1932] Above Picenum are the Vestini,[1933] the Marsi,[1934] the Peligni,[1935] the Marucini,[1936] and the Frentani,[1937] a Samnitic nation possessing the hill-country, and extending almost to the sea. All these nations are small, but extremely brave, and have frequently given the Romans proofs of their valour, first as enemies, afterwards as allies; and finally, having demanded the liberty and rights of citizens, and being denied, they revolted and kindled the Marsian war.[1938] They decreed that Corfinium,[1939] the metropolis of the Peligni, should be the capital for all the Italians instead of Rome: made it their place d’armes, and new-named it Italica. Then, having convoked deputies from all the people friendly to their design, they created consuls[1940] and prætors, and maintained the war for two[1941] years, until they had obtained the rights for which they struggled. The war was named the Marsian[1942] war, because that nation commenced the insurrection, and particularly on account of Pompædius.[1943] These nations live generally in villages, nevertheless they are possessed of certain cities, some of which are at some little distance from the sea, as Corfinium, Sulmo,[1944] Maruvium,[1945] and Teatea[1946] the metropolis of the Marrucini. Others are on the coast, as Aternum[1947] on the Picentine boundary, so named from the river [Aternus], which separates the Vestini from the Marrucini. This river flows from the territory of Amiternum and through the Vestini, leaving on its right the Marrucini, who lie above the Peligni, [at the place where the river] is crossed by a bridge. The city, which bears the same name, (viz. Aternum,) belongs to the Vestini, but its port is used in common both by the Peligni and the Marrucini. The bridge I have mentioned is about 24 stadia from Corfinium. After Aternum is Orton,[1948] a naval arsenal of the Frentani, and Buca,[1949] which belongs to the same people, and is conterminous with the Apulian Teanum.[1950] †Ortonium[1951] is situated in the territory of the Frentani. It is rocky, and inhabited by banditti, who construct their dwellings of the wrecks of ships, and lead otherwise a savage life.† Between Orton and Aternum is the river Sagrus,[1952] which separates the Frentani from the Peligni. From Picenum to the Apuli, named by the Greeks the Daunii,[1953] sailing round the coast, is a distance of about 490[1954] stadia.