Names of Places.Distances in miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total from Merowe.
El Dueim33A small scattered village; a largewhite-domed tomb makes it visible for some distance.
Sagag14A compact hamlet, mostly of straw huts, ¼mile from the river. The banks, which for the last 4 miles havebeen bare, here become studded with palms.
Gereif15A collection of wells and sagias fromwhich the ground is cultivated. The uncultivated ground is coveredwith coarse grass. A low range of hills here touches the south ofthe road.
Nurri27This village extends a considerabledistance inland. Near it, to the south of the road are 11 pyramids.Soon after leaving them the alluvial ground over which the road hashitherto passed gives place to sand.
Belal18A large well-built village. The road hereruns close to the river between small patches of cultivation and atrack of very broken rocky ground, which comes to within ¼ mile ofthe river. This stony tract is about 50 feet above the alluvialground. At the east end of the village a break in the cultivationleaves room for a small camp on the river bank.
Khor-el-Sorawi311A dry watercourse, 20 yards wide. Itshows signs of out-pouring a considerable stream in the rainyseason. 1 mile further to the east the river makes a sharp bend tothe north-east, the edge of broken ground continuing to run in aneasterly direction. The road takes an intermediate course across aplain of firm gravel which lies between the rocks and theriver.
Kanisa112A small village ½ mile to the north ofthe road, at the foot of a small rocky hill, in an angle of theriver.
El Dugaiyet113A scattered village. The broken groundhere again comes to within ½ mile of the river. There is a goodcamping ground on the river bank near the village. The road to BirSani and Berber here branches off. It runs at first over very rockyground. There are said to be 90 islands in the river between thisplace and Belal. The cultivation of the district is for the mostpart on these islands.
Hamdab518A very long village with a fair amount ofcultivation. The road from Dugaiyet runs between the broken groundand thick bush. Just before reaching Hamdab the rocky ground opensout considerably at the mouth of the Khor El Shungui. A goodcamping ground on the river bank. The road described from Hamdabonwards was followed by part of River Column, 1885.
Dates, dura, cotton, dukhn, and barleygrown. The road to Berber leaves the river about 2 miles belowHamdab, crossing the rocky ground at a point marked by two solitarydom palms.
Good camping ground for a large force,commanded by rocky ridge, 400 yards from river.
Jebel Kulgeili422The road as far as Jebel Kulgeili skirtsthe belt of cultivation, which is interspersed with a few nativehouses. It is commanded the whole way by a low ridge of rocks, at adistance from the river varying from 50 to 500 yards.
Jebel Kulgeili, 400 feet high, commandsthe surrounding country for a distance of several miles. The directdesert road to Berti (19 miles) leaves the river at the foot ofthis hill.
The road, after leaving Kulgeili, becomesrocky and much cut up by ravines and sandy khors, graduallybecoming more difficult as the islands of Auli are approached. Theriver between Hamdab and Auli is quite open, and free from brokenwater.
Auli830At Auli the cataract of Terai commences;but it is not difficult. There are several houses and muchcultivation on the islands and on the left bank. Good campinggrounds are to be found.
El Kabur333Cultivation extends along the road,broken at times by rocky and barren ground. At El Kabur, which issituated at the end of the nest of islands which forms the 4th orEdermi Cataract, there is scanty cultivation and a few houses.
From Auli to El Kabur by water the boatchannel follows the right bank. There is one difficult gate, abouttwo-thirds of the way up, at which heavy stores have to beportaged. The country to the east of the road along the left bankis very rocky and broken, and nearly impracticable forcavalry.
Kabeinat (ruined forts)134The road leaves the river at El Kabur andfollows the bed of a sandy khor until an old ruined fort built upona rocky prominence commanding the river is reached. The rocky andbroken ground skirts the river between El Kabur and Kabeinat, andis impracticable for cavalry. Opposite this ruined fort there isanother of a similar kind. The river between these two forts isvery narrow, and forms the commencement of the KabeinatCataract.
Mushani ridge539The road skirts the river bank; butalthough the country is more open than that previously travelled itis broken at parts by rocky ridges and deep ravines. Much acaciaand many dom palms are found.
Kabeinat Cataract presents no difficultyto navigation, and although the current is rapid, no broken wateroffering serious impediments to the passage of boats, is met withuntil the Gab El Abd Gate, 2 miles above the ruined forts, isreached. Here there is a direct fall of water which, however, canbe avoided by going over to the right bank. From this point toMushani ridge, which may be called the upper end of Gab El AbdCataract, the river presents most serious difficulties. Trackingfrom rocks and islands has invariably to be resorted to, and at lowNile it is doubtful whether even light boats could be taken up thispart of the river.
Mushani Ridge commands the country to thenorth-east as far as the distant hills overlooking Berti. The ridgeruns at right angles to the river, and the rocks and boulders inwhich it terminates come down close to the left bank of the river.There is but little cultivation along this part of the river,except on the islands of Umderas and Amri, the former of which ispassed just after leaving Kabeinat, and at the village of Shebabikon the right bank opposite the lower end of Umderas Island.
Warrak140There is a large tomb and a few detachedhuts at this point, with a certain amount of cultivation, very goodcamping grounds, much mimosa, and many dom-palm trees.
The cataract of Um Hababoa is here metwith, lying between Kandi Island and the left bank. It is verydifficult, and it is supposed, from the remains of wreckage foundlying about, it was near this point that Ismail Pacha abandoned hisboats in 1820.
This cataract can be avoided at high Nileby going between the islands of Amri and Kandi, the passage betweenwhich islands was nearly dry in February, 1885.
A track leads from Warrak to Berti,across rocky and broken ground; but it is not much shorter thanthat generally followed.
Gamra242The road skirts the river throughconsiderable cultivation, mostly dukhn. At Gamra, which is oppositethe upper end of Kandi Island, there are several native huts, andgood camping grounds can everywhere be found.
The river between Warrak and Gamra is notdifficult; but there is a very swift current, and tracking isnecessary at certain points from the left bank.
One mile beyond Gamra the road leaves theriver to avoid the rocky kopjes which command the foot and mark thecommencement of the Rahami Cataract. It strikes the river again 2miles below Berti. It is very rocky, and much cut up by deep khorsand ravines.
A broad, sandy khor leaves the river 1½miles above Gamra, and runs away to the east until lost in thedesert.
By following this khor until it strikesthe Kulgeili-Berti road, the mountains and rocky countryoverlooking Berti can be avoided, and Berti entered at its upperend.
The river between the foot of RahamiCataract and Berti offers most serious obstacles to navigation. Theboat channel lies along the right bank.
Berti648Berti is a scattered village extendingover a length of 2 miles. It is situated mostly on an island which,however, forms part of the mainland at low Nile. The cultivation isvery rich and plentiful, and barley, dura, cotton, wheat, beans,dates, and dukhn grow in great abundance. This is the boundarybetween Dongola and Berber Provinces.
The lower end of the village is situatedin rocky ground, but the larger portion lies in the open.
The direct road from Jebel Kulgeilienters near the house of Suleiman Wad Gamr, about half-way up thevillage.
Berti is the head-quarters of the Monasirtribe, and is on the boundary between Berber and DongolaProvinces.
The island of Ishashi is passed justbefore reaching Berti, and is very richly cultivated.
Jebel Kirbekan856Between Berti and El Kirbekan there areseveral pieces of broken water, but nothing worthy of the term“cataract” is to be met with until opposite Dulka Island, where thecataract of Ragabat El Gamal obstructs the river; it is notdifficult. Boni Island lies on the right side of the river, abreastof and overlapping Dulka Island, and between it and the right bankthe cataract of Abu Sayal is situated. It is impassable at lowNile. In the centre of Boni Island, and in prolongation of theKirbekan ridge, is aremarkable round-topped mountain, which can be seen for severalmiles before Boni Island is reached.
On leaving the belt of cultivation atBerti, the track leaves the river and winds through a mass of rocksand boulders until it again strikes the river opposite a smallisland, on which are the remains of a ruined castle (Castle Camp ofRiver Column); distance from Berti, 6 miles. Scant cultivation anda good camping ground for a small force are here to be found.
After leaving the bank opposite theruined castle, the track again quits the river and follows the bedof a sandy khor, interrupted in parts by belts of rocks andboulders until the river is again struck opposite Dulka Island (6½miles from Castle Camp), where there is a good camping groundamidst patches of cultivation. One and a half miles beyond thispoint the long razor-backed hill, running at right angles to thecourse of the Nile, and known as Jebel Kirbekan (300 feet), issituated. It completely blocks the road, but can be easily turnedby marching round its south-west extremity.
The action of 10.2.85 took placehere.
El Kirbekan (village)460On leaving Jebel Kirbekan, the trackfollows the bed of a sandy khor, much broken in places by rocks,&c., for 4 miles, when the village of El Kirbekan, at the lowerentrance of the Shukuk Pass, is reached. Here there are a few mudhouses, palm trees, and some scant vegetation; barley, dura, anddukhn.
The Wadi El Arku, which breaks up intoseveral outlets on nearing the river, comes out at this point, andit is here that the direct road to Abu Egli (78 miles),viâ the Jura Wells (48 miles), leaves the river.
Shukuk Pass (south end)½60½The Shukuk Pass is entered immediatelyafter leaving El Kirbekan. The track leaves the river, and followsthe bed of a sandy khor, completely commanded by rocky heightsvarying from 20 feet to 100 feet, until Jebel Shukuk (350 feet) isreached. This mountain, with its conspicuous marble tops, marks thehalf-way through the Pass.
Leaving Jebel Shukuk on the left-handside, the track inclines towards the river, the Pass becomesnarrower and more difficult, and at places it is impossible formore than one loaded camel to pass at a time. The track at thispoint is nearly impracticable, and it is with the greatestdifficulty that even horses can keep their footing.
Shukuk Pass (north end)7½68The Shukuk Pass terminates suddenlyopposite the upper end of Uss Island, and at the commencement ofShoar Island, on which latter island there are many small villages,and much cultivation.
The Shukuk Pass can be turned by leavingthe river at El Kirbekan, striking into the desert and skirting thewhole block of mountains through which the pass runs. This is aneasy half-day’s camel ride, but there is no water along theroad.
Capt. Maxse says (1897) the pass is 7miles long; there is water at each end, and the going is good, withthe exception of ½ mile at the south-west entrance, and ¾ mile atthe north-east exit.
During that first ½ mile at the entrancethe roadway is narrow and intricate, the path being strewn withquantities of small loose locks and boulders. These could becleared away. The labour thus expended would greatly facilitate allsubsequent movements of troops and transport.
The ¾ mile of exit could similarly bemuch improved by manual labour. A little blasting would help stillmore here.
There is, however, 100 yards of pathwayat the bottom of a deep cutting, which would defy ordinaryappliances. Still there is room for a loaded camel, and the removalof loose stones would make even this bit easy.
The interior of the pass is mostly abroad, level, sandy khor, varying in width from 5 yards to 200yards.
Should the pass be held by a stubbornfoe, it can be turned without difficulty from the east.
The river between El Kirbekan and the endof the Shukuk Pass is clear and free from obstacles, though itflows at times between steep and rocky banks.
Just as the upper end of Uss Island isreached, a small rapid has to be passed which is not, however, verydifficult.
Both north and south of the Shukuk Passthere are numerous drawings of a rough description representingcattle, monkeys, and dogs, probably the same period as those atMurrat—2nd and 3rd century A.D. (Major SirH. Hill, Bart.).
Salamat1280On debouching from the Shukuk Pass, thecountry commences to open out, and the hills to recede further fromthe river. The track follows the bank, which now commences tobecome more generally cultivated. Just before coming abreast ofShoar Island, thetrack ascends a rocky plateau, from the summit of which the firstview of Jebel Osma is obtained.
The Island of Sherrai follows ShoarIsland, but it is very barren and rocky. One mile up this islandthe cataract of Tuari is passed. It is very difficult, and theriver is here much broken by rocks and shallows.
After passing Tuari Cataract thecultivation increases still more, and sagias and groups of datepalms occur at frequent intervals along the bank. The fertile anddensely populated Island of Sherri succeeds that of Sherrari.
The track continues along the bank of theriver, deviating occasionally to avoid clusters of rocks on a khor,until Salamat, opposite the upper end of Sherri Island, isreached.
It is at this point that the cataract ofUm Deras is placed on the official maps, but no impediment tonavigation exists.
Salamat, the principal village in theMonasir country, is a long straggling village of fairly-built mudhuts, the principal of which belong to Suleiman Wad Gamr and hisuncles, Omar and Abu Bakr. The country is very rich and there areseveral large groups of palm trees.
The desert comes down to the bank of theriver on the right bank, just above Salamat.
The track, after leaving Salamat, followsthe bank of the river until Jebel Osma is reached, 3 miles
Opposite Hebi, or Hebba888Leaving this solitary mountain on theleft, a detour of 1 mile is made, where the river is again struck.A broad sandy khor runs at the foot of Jebel Osma. The bank is nowfollowed until abreast of the village of Hebi, situated on theright bank. The road is good throughout. Patches of richcultivation are constantly met with, near groups of huts built inthe rocks and boulders, which are left on the right-hand side.
There are two broad khors running intothe desert between Salamat and Jebel Osma. Mimosa or sûnt trees, ofan unusually large size, are met with along the road. The river isfree from obstruction.
If going to Abu Hamed, it is advisable tocross the Nile opposite Hebi, where the river affords greatfacilities for crossing and swimming animals. The island of Kan andsmaller islands on the right bank may be utilized in the crossing.Lieut.-Colonel Stewart’s steamer, on its way from Khartoum, waswrecked on the island of Kan on the 18th September, 1884, and heand his party were treacherously murdered in the house of one namedOthman Fakri, commonly known as Othman Amian, in the village ofHebi.
Hebi is a straggling village, composed ofsmall mud huts, built in the rocks. There are some conspicuous palmtrees on the bank of the river. The village was completelydestroyed by the British troops in February, 1885. There is muchcultivation in and near Hebi: dura, dukhn, barley, beans, etc.,growing in luxuriance.
Old Merowe to Abu Hamed, by the Right Bank of the Nile.

(Major Hon. M. G. Talbot, R.E., October, 1897.)

General Notes.

(i.)The grazing for camels is moderate.
(ii.)The places where water can be obtained depend on the time of the year. The bed of the river is the only source of supply.
(iii.)No considerable elevation is crossed anywhere. Probably the road is never more than 100 to 150 feet above high Nile level.
(iv.)Telegraph line follows road where not otherwise mentioned.
(v.)No supplies obtainable on right bank.
Names of Places.Distances in miles.Description.
Inter-mediate.Total from Merowe.
Old MeroweVillage.
J. Barkal44Two miles inland. Ancient ruined pyramidsat base. Desert road from Dongola joins river here.
Kasinjar48Telegraph line crosses from left to rightbank here.
Small fort.
Amrao1917On leaving Kasinjar fort the road curvesround with the river, but gradually recedes from it. After 2 milesof good firm sand, with thin thorny scrub, the road turns away fromthe river to the north-east, passing to the right of Jebel Wad ElDuga, beyond which it turns N.N.E., over undulating, stony ground,draining to right. The going is good to 11 miles. At about 13 milesroad passes into a shallow basin draining east, from which itemerges at 14½ miles, and begins to descend to river by a bad pathdown and across small khors. Reaches river at Meshra El Abiad, agood watering place, at 15¾ miles. From 11 to 14½ miles the road,though generally good, is less so than before, and passes over bitsof stony ground, which would be very troublesome at night or evenfor a considerable body marching by day. From Meshra El Abiad roadruns along river bank; good going for camels, and some grass andthorn grazing. A few huts at Amrao, where there is plenty of roomto camp and some shade.
There is also a road by the river, whichwas used by General Hunter’s column. It is said to be bad and totake baggage camels 5 hours.
Abu Haraz9½36½Desert road leaves river at once andfollows telegraph wire for 3½ miles, when latter strikes off toright to river, and continues along it to Abu Haraz. To 3½ milesroad is good, in flat khor, few bushes on left, and giganticboulders on right. Keeps on straight to 8 miles, crossing plainstrewn with scattered ridges of granite boulders, and then turnsslightly to right down to river at Abu Haraz, 9 miles, where thereare a few ruined mud houses, and a clump of palms at 9½ miles, withcamp and shade for a battalion. No water along road.
Hosh El Geruf1248½For 4½ miles road winds in and out of lowslaty and granitic ridges, with strip of good sand between, keepinggenerally near the river. It then leaves the river near Khor AbuHerejil and strikes across low slatey ridges to about 7½ miles,when it again strikes an arm of the river, dry at this season,along which it keeps for 1 mile, and then across broad, low openplateau to Hosh El Geruf. Like all the names in this part, Hosh ElGeruf is applied to a strip along the river, rather than to any onespot or village. The spot referred to here is a clump of palms, atthe foot of a low hill, near a little cultivation.
Salmia1462½Road generally bad, quite unsuitable forwheels. It follows river at starting for 1 mile, and then, leavingit, winds up and down khors and over low rocky ridges almost thewhole way. From about 8½ to 10 miles is the worst bit. Here horsesshould be led in single file, after that road enters sandy plainand is good to 13 miles, when it commences to cross low ridgesagain. At 13½ miles the river is seen for the first time and theroad descends to Salmia, which consists of two or three groves ofpalms, with a field or two of dura and three or four houses ofMonasir. Room to camp three or four battalions, with a littleshade.
Dakhfili, south end12½75Road leaves river at once, and for 1¾ milescrosses stony ground strewn with boulders. It then gets on to sandyand more open ground, and is good to 3 miles when it drops down tovalley of river by a bad path. Then very good sand to 4 miles,where it strikes river bank at Kamasab, just opposite Jebel Us.From here road is bad nearly to 6 miles, when a strip of good goingtakes it as far as Shukoka, 9 miles, where there is a littlecultivation on the bank of the river and on a backwater. Southernend of Dakhfili is reached at 12½ miles, road being partly alongriver and never very far from it, and passing several small groupsof huts. Dakhfili is a large camping ground ¾ mile long, oppositeShirri Island. It has a few palms and some large sunt trees. Nocultivation to speak of.
There is another route to Dakhfili fromHosh El Geruf, which leaves the river at much the same place, andkeeps straight across the desert to Dakhfili. It was much used byconvoys, even at night, and is undoubtedly much better going thanthe Salmia route, and probably a couple of miles shorter, but thereis no water along it.
El Gab, viâ Um Duema1994At the north-east end of Dakhfili, roadleaves the river, and after 1 mile over heavy sand and sand-coveredrock, emerges into the open Khor Haweili, 500 to 600 yards wide,and bounded by low sand-covered slopes. (From this point a trackleads to the river and round by it to Um Duema, distance 14 to 15miles, bad going.) Road continues up khor to 7 miles over sand andgravel, generally very good for camels, but a little soft for menand horses. Room to march in any formation. (From here desert roadcontinues almost straight on to El Gab, 17 miles, mostly goodgoing, but some heavy sand for the last 3 or 4 miles.) At 7½ milesthe Um Duema road strikes off to right by an easy but unfrequentedpath over low hills partly covered with sand, and descends by abaddish path between Ab Rumeila and Hebi at 11 miles. Roadcontinues easy but narrow along the bank, passing Hebi, 12 miles,where there are a few houses, with some palms and a littlecultivation, and Um Duema at 13 miles, which is similar to Hebi. At14 miles, road enters sand which lasts to El Gab. It is heavy inplaces and bad for men and horses. El Gab is an ancient ruined poston a low rock overlooking the river. There is a small patch ofcultivation and a few palms. Plenty of room to camp.
Sand continues heavy to 2½ miles, wheredirect road by desert leaves river and strikes it again at about 10miles. (I did not follow this, but believe it is fairly goodgoing.) It is possible to march along the river bank, a littlelonger, but the sand is heavier.
Khulla, north end direct road16110Khulla is a strip of the bank some 4miles long; no houses nor cultivation, only a few shepherds’ huts;many sunt trees and dom palms. Much room to camp and plenty ofshade. The sand is piled with hillocks along the bank, and the roadruns on lower ground from 100 to 600 yards from river. Northernboundary of Khulla is Khor Hamadein. This was the furthest pointattained by the River Column, 1885.
Ab Tin, by river road20130After crossing Khor Hamadein, road keepsdue east for about 4 miles and passes through Gemmeiza, a districtsimilar to Khulla, but not so well wooded. Low gravelly hillsapproach on right bank, and at several points tracks branch off tothe left forming short cuts over these hills towards Ab Tin. (I didnot travel by any of these, but I understand they are easy going.)The telegraph line follows one of these. At 4 miles road turnsnorth by baddish track, heavy and stony, following river bank, andpasses small village of Tibna at 6 miles. Fair but heavyish goingto 10 miles, where short cuts from Khulla and telegraph line joinin. Bad going to 11 miles over low, rocky ridges covered with sand;then excellent going to Ginefab, 14 miles. Then ½ mile of badgoing, and 5 miles good going to Shellal Gurgurib over open groundwith many sunt trees; ¾ mile more of good going to Ab Tin at 20miles. This, though quite a small place, is the largest villagethat has been passed. It has a small area of cultivation and somepalms.
Abu Hamed10140Road good and open, though heavy inplaces, for 5 miles, till it strikes railway; then heavy sand withsmall hillocks and many dom palms and other trees to 9 miles, whereroad and river turn south and track gets harder. The railwaystation is about 1 mile north of Abu Hamed village. Residence ofMamur and headquarters of the district.

Abu Hamed.Abu Hamed used to be chiefly notable as being the point of arrival and departure of the various caravan routes which traverse the Korosko Desert, and takes its name from a highly venerated sheikh, whose tomb is here situated. The merchants were in the habit of depositing here any articles with which they did not wish to encumber themselves during their journey through the desert, and the environs of the tomb used to be surrounded by every sort of superfluous impedimenta, left by their owners to await their return, with no other protection than that afforded by the sanctity of the defunct sheikh.

Considerable plantations of acacias and doms are found in the neighbourhood of the village, which is also remarkable for the numerous “dunes” or sand hills collected by the winds from the surrounding desert.

It is a small village, utterly destitute of supplies. The sterile desert extends to the very margin of the Nile. Altitude 1,040 feet above sea level. Desert perfectly flat. Deep sand. Major-General Hunter attacked and took the place from the Dervishes on the 7th August, 1897. (Vide [p. 254.]) The railway reached this point from Wadi Halfa on 31st October, 1897. It is now a watering station for trains, with modern bathrooms for tourists, etc. It is the residence of the Mamur and inspector of the Monasir and Robatab Districts. It is also proposed as the junction of a branch line to Merowe.

Sub-Section (b).—Abu Hamed to Khartoum.